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🤖3D printers and what kinds of cool stuff you can print.🤖


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I recently purchased a 3d printer.


It's a Prusa MK3S, and I intend to get a resin printer (AnyCubic Photon Mono X) soon that can do higher detail prints.  I don't, currently, know much about CAD or slicer software that is used to take 3d computer models and turn them into "sliced" models that can be printed in layers.... like a 3d printer does.  My intention is to:

  1. Learn CAD.
  2. Make some art & practical parts.
  3. Learn how to cast metal parts, potentially using 3d prints to make molds for such casting.
  4. Learn how to do 3d laser scan and subsequent point field manipulation to make scans of real life 3d objects.


I'm tagging you guys here because you expressed an interest or previous experience with such things.
@thealmighty...
@mr.yuck

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  • 3 months later...

Found this to be interesting.  But it's kind of useless because very few really do check authenticity and how can you through photographs on internet second hand retail outlets.  

Besides, what's the point really?  I mean when you have an entire street here in Houston that sales nothing but knockoffs and this little area of Houston brings in so much money city officials will always look the other way. 

but anyhow, non the less I found it interesting

 

https://phys.org/news/2020-12-magnetic-janus-balls-foil-counterfeiters.html

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That is pretty neat.

 

I'm now wanting to get an Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) printer.  They're quite a bit "in a different ballpark" than many of the Filament Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers that most people are using.  I have some parts for my printers that are upgraded/made out of SLS printed P12 material.

 

 https://www.protolabs.com/media/1019528/sls-data-sheet-pa-12-white-f.pdf

 

They are quite a bit stronger and you can tell the layer adhesion is quite a bit higher in quality than the FDM printed parts.  The PA12 (nylon basically) can also withstand a higher temperature.  What this means is, you can make a printer out of PA12 parts that can live inside a heated chamber which is required for printing with really high temp materials.  NASA uses heated chambers to print 3d parts "tHaT aRE UsEd iN tHe ShUtTlE".

 

https://www.lulzbot.com/learn/NASA-high-temperature-printing

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I hear ya,  there's a lot of 3d printed parts used in aerospace and defence.  The resolution tho is super high to a point where it will make you question the manufacturing process.   I haven't ran the job in a while but I had to lase a guide sleeve for tank periscope.  I thought it was just some type of graphene composite all while I cannot find the material on the internet by its name so I gave up amd just had to shoot it with the laser amd hope for the best.  Amyhow, I put the parts under the stereoscopic to inspect the engraving and thats when I immediately noticed the layers which told me the parts were 3d printed.  Very impressive what an unlimited supply of money can buy as a far as quality.

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So, now that I've been printing for months now.... I've learned some things about this "hobby".

 

* Bad settings within your slicer software can cause all kinds of stupid problems.

* Store your filament in a dry location.  I'm using 20Gal. Husky containers that have 6 latches each and an o-ring seal to keep air/moisture from easily going in/out.

* PLA is good for printing models/figurines/etc but not good for mechanical things that need strength; PETG is better for that task.

* z-height adjustment settings are a bit challenging to get proper and will cause all kinds of weird problems when it's not right.

 

Anyway, I think building a machine shop is a better idea.  3d printing is fun, but I think milling metal and cutting it is where it's at.  The CNC machines that do that work run on the same type of code that the 3d printers do.... so the knowledge learned from 3d printing can easily be used to make production, long last parts out of metal.

 

I'd also like to have the machines that can do SLS on metal... as in below.

 

 

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