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Help fix my TRUCK!


ImChristeezy

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I believe her last car was a supra that i read on facebook broke down somewhere around a dozen times..

 

I think she just likes throwing money into pieces of shit.

 

 

 

Cool down.... I know ive had some bad experiences in my past with cars but this isnt something i ENJOY doing. I, like anybody else would like to just have a nice reliable car/truck/SUV that gets us from point A to point B... Shit just never works out like that for me. Yes I happen to get things that may not keep working with out a bit of work, but thats all i can afford. Im not fucking rich, nor do I even have a job yet. My Supra is gone btw.

 

 

 

Anyway, Like somebody posted on the first page, join a LR forum, I did and this is what they said.

 

"That is classic alternator symptoms. Alternators should be tested IN VEHICLE with a load on them Load being high beams and AC on high. Not out of vehicle.

 

Also, at this point, you're gonna need a battery as well or have it tested. At rest it should be putting out no lest that 11.9 volts. Running, it should have 14.0v. Some people think lower than 14 is ok, but it isnt."

 

 

Everything you guys said, minus the leave it in the truck to get it tested. Which might be why its coming up good to autozone...

 

I have the battery there right now, it was at 0 battery life, so they are gunna charge it and re-test it. I am probably going to just buy an altenator and a new battery, probably around 370 bucks after I get my core charges back. And I guess we'll see what happens.

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You took your alternator to Autozone and they said it was good. That's just as good as not taking it anywhere. Autozone is full of morons who get back $7 bucks an hour, they don't know shit and I wouldn't trust them to test anything on any car.

 

Start the car up, then disconnect your battery while it's running, if the car stops running then your alternator is bad. If it keeps running then it's good.

 

Then like mentioned earlier, hook a multi-meter up to the back of the alternator to see if it's drawing any power. If you don't have a multi-meter, just disconnect the positive lead from the alternator, then tap it on the back post (where you just disconnected it from), if it's drawing anything you'll get a tiny spark, if it's not you'll get nothing.

 

If you have a multi-meter hook it up to the battery and see how many volts you get. You'd want at least 12, if you've got only 8 you have a problem with your charging system.

 

Then move onto the fuses, I doubt it's a fuse problem cause once a fuse blows, it blows. Nothing it gonna flicker on and off cause a fuse went bad. . . but it wouldn't hurt to check.

 

After that take shit to the junk yard, if you've got a bad ground or a wire shorting out somewhere you'll never find that shit on a new car with a wiring harness that's got five thousand wires in it, plus a computer and all that other bull shit.

 

Good luck.

 

P.S. if that belt it only craced on the inside it's fine. With a serpentine belt outside cracks are what you need to look for.

 

Also, check your head light fluid, might be causing a short somewhere if it's not topped off.

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Did you do this yet, or ask them to?

 

 

Turn everything off and disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Grab a multimeter and set it to DC amps.

Connect multimeter between neg battery post and neg battery lead.

Read current draw. (make everything is off. eg. interior light)

Should be less than 0.1amps (100mA)

If its more, start pulling fuses till the current falls, this will identify the offending circuit.

 

If the alternator is shagged it can pull current from the battery when the car is off.

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it had a 7mge an i bought a metal head gasket for it when I got the motor swapped after I cracked the block an blew the head in the motor before. See, I just dont have good luck with cars. NBB doesnt know shit about what hes talking about. He saw that I had got into an accident with it and everbody told me to trash it after that, but motor was new and I was still happy with it. Fixed it an even put on a new front bumper/fenders on myself that I found at pick n pull.

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it had a 7mge an i bought a metal head gasket for it when I got the motor swapped after I cracked the block an blew the head in the motor before. See, I just dont have good luck with cars. NBB doesnt know shit about what hes talking about. He saw that I had got into an accident with it and everbody told me to trash it after that, but motor was new and I was still happy with it. Fixed it an even put on a new front bumper/fenders on myself that I found at pick n pull.

 

Pics of said Supra?

Yeah the 7mge has head gasket problems, but replace the gasket with a new one and they'll last

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I don't care what autozone said. That shit sounds like an alternator

 

autozone is staffed with lazy idiots. my fiancee brought in her battery to get it tested when her car wasn't starting and they said it was fine. two days later, she was stranded at work with a dead battery that wouldn't take a jump or a charge. the old lazy sonofabitch working the first time didn't feel like installing a battery.

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If the alternator is shagged

lolz.

 

Since the alternator has been eliminated, I'm also going with crank sensor. Just did one on a friend's Benz who would have the same problem. Car would die at random times... stop lights, while driving, etc. No CEL either. Overpriced unreliable luxury cars... smh.

 

You can also check your alternator by pulling the battery terminals off while the car is running. If it dies, you need an alternator. Don't know if I would recommend this for a Land Rover though, because it can surge your electrical system, and in a European car that may be a recipe for disaster.

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