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Digital Photography talk thread, noobz welcome (questions & answers)


Mercer

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you have put together some good info on here Mercer. its very nice of you to share soem knowledge..most people are greedy with the tricks( of whatever they do)

i will come back when im not so tired to really take it in. however. from what ive read, i have yet to see this come up. I have seen comercials for the Olympus pen. It either looks simple, practical,wide range of uses.....or the person who wrote the commercial knows how to sell shit to a sucker like me. what do you think? (or anybody's thoughts)

I plan on investing in equipment and education between summer-winter. maybe ill be able to play with you big dogs eventually.until then..it sure is fun being inspired.

im rambling..im off to bed.

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SMDXL: Is that the one where the commercial says "This commercial was filmed with this camera" ?

 

 

im sure if you wait a little longer you would be able to get your hands on dslrs that shoot 1080p at more affordable prices.

 

one of my friends shoots with a D300S and the video on that is insane. you can control the depth of field on the video and everything. if i had that kind of money i would upgrade in a heart beat.

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Guest Ginger Bread Man

Funny you mention that nm because there are plenty of videographers using the canon 5d and 7d exclusively for video(not foto).

 

I'm looking into this as well.

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As far as the Olympus Pen and the other "four thirds" cameras coming out I think they're a peek at the future of digital photography.

Not to say that Digital SLR's will become obsolete, but for the majority of amateur photographers (even the serious ones) it's perfect.

You get all the advantages of an SLR like interchangeable lenses, high quality sensors/images and full manual control if needed.

The only thing they don't offer is the bulk of carrying around a huge camera and the constraints of having to hold the camera up to your face.

There will always be some need for actually looking directly through the lens but for the majority of photo's it's unnecessary.

I'd highly recommend those 4/3rds to anyone trying to step their point and shoot game up.

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Thank guys. Obviously I need/want education before major investment. I run my lil point and shoots to the ground though..(mainly because I fall to the ground with them) and each time I get a new one, I like it better than the last. I definitely don't want to waste money on a camera and not use it to its full potential. but I appreciate your words. Trust me though, I do read the advice and knowledge you guys give out throughout these threads.

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Not sure how many of you will find this useful but I just downloaded Sofortbild (free camera tethering program for Mac)

This program is awesome, had problems using the Nikon software but Sofortbid works flawlessly as soon as it's installed.

Has controls on your monitor to actually take the photo and adjust the settings without touching the camera, pretty useful in a tripod situation.

Anyway here is a link for a tutorial on how to set it up with lightroom and demo:

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@ mercer my bootlegg ass dslr probably couldn't handle that tethering system, right?

 

also re: the 4/3rds stuff, i could see myself using a camera like that and it would be great. when i'm some places, and all of a sudden the camera becomes more of a detriment than a benefit, i'd love to be able to take the lens off a 'point and click' back, cap them both, put the body in one pocket, the lens in another, and walk away. Backpacks can be just as hot sometimes, and dslrs look like 1000 dollar chains to some.

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haha im going to have to look into said bulb feature, but im only rocking a d3000 so im not even sure i have it.

 

and as for the purple vignette, i dont do 30 seconds. when i do longer/tripod exposures i usually do it to accentuate movement of people against stationary objects. if i leave it open for that long the people look more like a weird mist and less like a person in flux. i prefer 3-10 second exposures, depending. and once in a while i get vignettes but i correct them in photoshop.

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My camera won't go beyond 30 sec. without using bulb mode or a remote and I don't know of any that do.

From what I understand they max out at 30 since that's enough time to capture light even in dark night time conditions.

Anything more than 30 runs the risk of long exposure noise (not ISO noise) ruining the image anyway.

Any small leak of light like through the viewfinder for example or imperfections/dust on the lens will cause it.

 

As for the original question, almost any DSLR or high end point and shoot maxes out at 30.

It's not so much the camera itself, it's more so the technique used to take long exposures that matters.

3 things I do, cover the viewfinder so light doesn't leak in before taking the shot,

set the timer so the small movement of pressing the shutter release doesn't happen during the actual shot,

and don't over do it, meaning keep the aperture open and don't focus on how long the shot is.

When I first got my DSLR I thought the high aperture stars that showed up around streetlights were cool,

Now I think they're lame and feel like a lot of night shots I took are wak now.

 

As far as the tethering goes, I'm pretty sure your camera can do it, give it a try, that program is free anyway.

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also, i just learned that my 35mm 1.8 is a 52mm lens on 35mm film.... can you explain the difference anyone? more curious than anything else...

 

i think you might have things a little mixed up. chances are its 52mm on your dslr and 35 on the 35mm.

 

i didn't see anyone reply to this so i'll take a shot. your dslr is a compact model and therefore has a sensor that is not the same size as a 35mm film. Usually the Canon models have a 1.6 crop factor because the sensor of the camera is 22.2 x 14.8mm as opposed to 35mm film's full frame 36x24mm. so you can multiply your lenses by 1.6 and thats the new focal length.

 

What companies do to counter this a bit is to make lenses that go further into the camera. these are called EF-S for canon, this helps balance out the lens but its important not to use these lenses on 35mm film camera because the larger sensor and the lens which goes deeper into the camera can collide when the shutter fires and damage either piece.

 

i hope this is the answer you were looking for...

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What up dudes...

 

I was talking to someone about 'metering' DSLR's the other day... Is there any reason to worry about metering if you are shooting in RAW and can fuck about with the exposure when you get home?

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What up dudes...

 

I was talking to someone about 'metering' DSLR's the other day... Is there any reason to worry about metering if you are shooting in RAW and can fuck about with the exposure when you get home?

 

Yes. The raw files capture anywhere from 9 to 12 stops of information depending on the camera, but generally increasing the exposure increases noise significantly. On the other end, overexposure blows out sensor sites and there is no information to recover by lowering.

 

It's actually a lot like film in that way.

 

You should be metering with the camera or a light meter and know as much as possible about it, the closer your exposure is to correct the better the image quality.

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