Mercer Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 I've never heard of that problem on a regular SLR under 15mp, I'm not sure on the D70 exactly what settings/memory card type are available either. I'd try two things before sending it, I'd reinstall the firmware on the camera, you can go to Nikon's site and download the operating system for a D70 from them. Then hook the camera up Via USB and load it, this would fix any software glitches it might have picked up. It's also a good idea to do that every year or so to get the latest version with updated features. Also, since it's not the card, I'd check the pins inside that go to your card. Try taking a can of the compressed air keyboard cleaner and gently spraying into the card slot. Use a flashlight and try to look inside the card slot where the pin connectors are and check for any debris. If that doesn't work then unfortunately I'm thinking you have to send it to Nikon for repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhMyGosh! Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Thanks guys...but off to Nikon it goes. Shit is still fucked. Blegh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DISTRACT Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Does anyone know if you can get digital photos on polaroid style prints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwriteforkicks Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 I must say i found this really useful so far, thanks guys! Now all i need is a job to actually be able to afford a slr. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Poloroids (most) are unique since the film itself is an envelope with developing chemicals inside. I'm pretty sure they don't make anything like that to print on and it would kind of suck to do that integrity wise. Besides, nothing against you personally but I'm pretty sure anyone who'd ask that wouldn't be able to edit the digital shots well enough to pass for Polaroid in the first place. Thought I'd drop this pointer in here, good stuff for the most part explaining composition techniques. Gotta understand the rules before you can break them properly. http://www.amateursnapper.com/photography/10-top-photography-composition-rules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lord_casek Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Here's something some of you might find useful: Focus stacking http://www.wonderfulphotos.com/articles/macro/focus_stacking/ Also: Been using Autopano Giga for some stitching work. Shit it truly amazing and works flawlessly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crocodile Tears Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 i lurk untitled from time to time but i rarely contribute, i wasnt sure where to post this but i respect the opinions here and i enjoy mercers work, so i figured this would be a good spot. i am in the market for a new camera. point and shoot only for now, SLR upgrade months if not a years ahead. i have experience with the cannon G10 but i was thinking of getting the G11 either that or the Rico or the Lumix GF1 so Cannon G11 Ricoh GR Panasonic Lumix GF1 mind you im looking to maximize Fstop high to low and little lighting in most shots that plus, size/weight. smaller/lighter. = better nh. i would just like to have something on me at all times and be able to shoot at a moments notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Yea, I have to say (personal opinion) I like the cannon pocket cameras the most, rugged/quality images. I've heard from a few people the G11 is great, there are a few better point and shoots but none are pocket sized like that. Try googling a few reviews on those cameras first before dropping loot on one though, stop by B&H and put them dudes to work. Defiantly check out reviews just to see which has the features you want more dialed in, or include features you didn't even know you wanted yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 I've seen some nice ricoh shots. I was looking at one a couple years back and the only reason why I didn't get one is because there's no zoom on it. I dunno if that's the same one. Now I wish I had gotten it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DISTRACT Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Poloroids (most) are unique since the film itself is an envelope with developing chemicals inside. I'm pretty sure they don't make anything like that to print on and it would kind of suck to do that integrity wise. Besides, nothing against you personally but I'm pretty sure anyone who'd ask that wouldn't be able to edit the digital shots well enough to pass for Polaroid in the first place. Thought I'd drop this pointer in here, good stuff for the most part explaining composition techniques. Gotta understand the rules before you can break them properly. http://www.amateursnapper.com/photography/10-top-photography-composition-rules It's not really for photography, I just want to have a whole bunch of flicks from my OS trip printed onto polaroid paper so I can pin it to my corkboard on my wall. Ive been using this to edit flicks and have turned out decent enough for my needs, but I want them printed onto polaroid style prints http://www.diginate.com/blog/2009/sep/17/convert-your-digital-photos-polaroid-style-prints/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lord_casek Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 It's not really for photography, I just want to have a whole bunch of flicks from my OS trip printed onto polaroid paper so I can pin it to my corkboard on my wall. Ive been using this to edit flicks and have turned out decent enough for my needs, but I want them printed onto polaroid style prints http://www.diginate.com/blog/2009/sep/17/convert-your-digital-photos-polaroid-style-prints/ http://poladroid.net/download.html ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crocodile Tears Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Yea, I have to say (personal opinion) I like the cannon pocket cameras the most, rugged/quality images. I've heard from a few people the G11 is great, there are a few better point and shoots but none are pocket sized like that. Try googling a few reviews on those cameras first before dropping loot on one though, stop by B&H and put them dudes to work. Defiantly check out reviews just to see which has the features you want more dialed in, or include features you didn't even know you wanted yet. thanks. but i also dropped the question in here to see if anyone had any inside info on any of these models being updated. oontz is usually very up on their tech beat. has anyone heard anything? im more then likely going with the G11 but i dont want to buy it and then have a newer version come out in 3 months. *edit funny i went to B&H friday afternoon and i forgot they close at 1/2 for sabbath. DOH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 I've been looking into it and personally think the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 is the best (based only on reading, no actual experience). In fact, I believe the camera is better than most entry/mid level digital SLR's and represents the future of digital photography. I think having a mirror with a view finder in an SLR has some accuracy advantages when it comes to manually focusing especially in low light. But an accurate digital display of the exposure you will capture with one of these compacts is a huge advantage also. I think a super high res screen would be good enough and I often playback and zoom in to check my SLR's photo's anyway. At the same time needing to hold the SLR up to your face and the louder noise of the mirror flipping up and shutter are disadvantages as well. Not to mention lugging around the huge SLR with you when you shoot just everyday scenes like I do. After reading into it I think I'm sold on one of these compacts. I'll keep the big boy around though for actual shoots but think one of these compacts would be awesome for what I'm trying to do with photography. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lord_casek Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 Mercer: Can you give me some pointers on macro photography with a digicam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudpuddles Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 sooooo i only have my little nikon s630 most places and i hate using the flash. too garish. so if i use a higher iso should i be able to shot better shots at concerts and shit? and i guess a lot of low light situations? trying to hold steady with longer exposure is practically impossible i'm finding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST THE TIP Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 you got it, chica. but keep in mind with higher iso, your pics will have more noise to them. and if you gotta use a slow shutter, try leaning up against something, or putting your camera against something to steady it. i was able to get some rad shots of the collesuem at night using a slow shutter and steadying my cam up against a garbage can. do what ya gotta do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
painkillers Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Do you guys use a SLR of point and shoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Mudpuddles, Concerts and most indoor places don't have enough light normally to take photo fast enough to cancel out motion blur. There are only two solutions, if you're within 40 feet a flash will work, if you dropped a couple grand on a full frame sensor high ISO will work. There really isn't much you can do about it with a point and shoot since anything over ISO 100 will be noisy/grainy normally. If you bump it up high enough to take use a fast shutter speed the photo will look worse than just having motion blur. Like dude said, if you brace the camera against something that isn't moving it's possible. That technique is only reliable for shooting people or objects that aren't moving, I'd stick with using the flash for concerts. Also, if you zoom in it makes it even worse as far as motion blur goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xLifeRuinerx Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 sooooo i only have my little nikon s630 most places and i hate using the flash. too garish. so if i use a higher iso should i be able to shot better shots at concerts and shit? and i guess a lot of low light situations? trying to hold steady with longer exposure is practically impossible i'm finding. Get a cheap ass tripod for indoor shots and bump the iso up. i use my Alien bees indoors sometimes and have to use a flashlight to focus, yet again im using a full-fram DSLr. and for concerts, either use the flash and put it on bulb mode and get some rad ass ghost effects or bump the ISO up and shoot with a faster shutter speed and F-Stop pretty low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poes Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Got a question about focusing on shit in the dark... Sometimes the auto-focus can't focus cos theres no light. I sometimes fire the flash to focus and then close for the actual photo. Mercer I know you do a lot of night time shit. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 I mainly use manual focus in those conditions, the viewfinder on my SLR is relatively bright though and I can usually eyeball it. What I normally do is find the highlights or shiny parts of an object in the dark and manually focus on that. Sometimes I wont get it in the first shot and review what I just shot and repeat until it's focused. The flash in TTL mode (sometimes refereed to as pulse) will work flawlessly most of the time. Just TTL flash a shot then turn off the flash and autofocus, without adjusting the focus and shoot again. For the most part the majority of my night shots are focused to infinity since I normally shoot areas and not objects. I'm sure there is better advise out there for shooting people or objects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poes Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Cheers dude, thats helpful. Never occured me to use auto-focus then switch to manual once it had focused. At night I normally shoot on T and just set the shutter speed and let the camera work out the rest. Want to get better shooting fully manual though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 I usually set mine to aperture control now and use the widest aperture possible depending on the lens. My first year or so with an SLR I went with all manual settings just to understand whats going on with the photo's. Right now my thing is white balance, I adjust it more than the exposure for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST THE TIP Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 i shot this toay and am unhappy with how sloppy all my panaramic shots are... im currently using the software that came with my camera. it automatically stitches the shots; what software do you cats recommend that will give me a bit more control? edit: another sloppy one, i shot in amsterdam: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 It would help if you said what camera you're using and the settings. First, Adobe photoshop comes with a pretty good photo stitch function, >file >automate> photomerge, I use CS3 and there are keygens for that and CS4 out now. It looks like the shots might have been taken on different settings then stitched together which never works. You're either shooting on auto (causing the exposure's to vary shot to shot) or you just have have too much vignetting. You can fix the problem if you can manually set the camera's aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, then take both shots on the same settings. Also, you may have excessive vignetting (corners of the frame get darker), try using a wider aperture with a faster shutter speed, or different lens. Just by looking at the ledge and how everything is in focus I can tell the aperture is way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST THE TIP Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Im shooting with an olymus e-420 on panaramic mode (auto) and editing using olympus software to edit. i obtained cs4 tonight though... ps thanks mang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercer Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 Then it's the vignetting causing the dark/light areas, widen the aperture to f/4 or above. I think that's why the night shot seems stitched better, probably a wider aperture was used. Also, that's a dope little SLR for sure, one of my friends has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MayorMeanBeans Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 on the amsterdam one, you get angle distortion when your lens is < 35mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swindle Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 prosperous thread appears prosperous. will be lurking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ginger Bread Man Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 also, to add to mercers post; you may want to take more shots as "safety frames" that you can get bits and pieces from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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