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Surf serf eberyday surf.


Tavaruawon

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Fuuuuuuuuuck did that happen on the south swell last week? I hit the reef and threw out my back on that huge Ass swell monday but nothing like that bitch

 

doh! my coworker ripped his foot open pretty solid on reef during the swell. had to yell at several retard tourists that were trying to take their little kids out body boarding. shortly afterwards gnarly sets came in and they didnt think i was an asshole anymore.

 

//sticks to small kine longboard waves...need to grow nuts and charge bigger shit

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Where is that left? Seaside, OR? You don't have to say if ya don't want to divulge any seekrats...

 

That swell was ridiculous. Checked the action at Newps and the Wedge. Always fucking entertainment there. Blacks in SD was as richter as it gets really. Matter of fact the whole coast was firing throughout the weekend. Long lulls between sets, but they were coming like 20 deep when they did. I've been watching buoys for a long time and I think I've only seen 25 second intervals like once or twice. Very rare shit.

 

And speaking of sharks... A photographer spotted a ten foot Great White cruising the reef at Swami's in Encinitas on Saturday evening. Of course there were like 40 people out in the lineup and they were quickly informed. Pretty much nobody got out of the water. Folks were just like eh... 'whatevs!' the swell was just too good to miss out on. That's Cali for yas though. I'll see if I can find the photo later on.

 

August through November they're out in force right now. The man in the grey suit yo.

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RIP to dude. My cuz was out there that day, came in and 30 minutes later that shit happened.

He said next day he drove south a bit and was about to go out when some old guy with a 9ft mal was coming in and said he'd just seen a shark bigger than his board.

He told someone on the beach who got out on the jetski and told the dudes in the water but no one came in?????

Shit is crazy, I see mr Jaws and I'm outta there

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  • 3 weeks later...
You MF'er Suds!! Thats awesome--you on the world tour or what?? Seasons close, you coming back anytime soon??

 

Just out here doing my thing, not on the QS or CT, that'd be awesome if a lake surfer made it tho.

 

Even out here I miss surfing the lakes, when u get them good its the best feeling in the world to me. The season is definitely about to start, hope you score. I'll be back in january after I hit Oz Kauai and San diego en route to frigid chi town.:D

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