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working on cars sucks


~KRYLON2~

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Ball joints can be a pain in the ass if the one's that are in there are original to the car. Most of them are riveted in at the factory, so you'll have to either grind the head of the rivets off with an angle grinder (it's usually an awkward position to be in, under the car with a grinder spinning in your face), or drill them out, then knock them out the rest of the way with a punch.

 

If you don't have a good set of bits and some cutting oil, it's gonna take you all day. I find that colbalt bits are the hardest and stay sharp pretty long. (made with colbalt, not that shitty name brand "Kolbalt" that's made over seas).

 

The replacement ball joints bolt in. So if someone's already changed out the originals, the job will be much easier.

 

If you're gonna be serious about working on and fixing your own shit, get yourself a real set of tools made in The U.S.A., don't skimp and buy foreign made tools. Sure you'll save money on the initial purchase, but you'll spend more in the long run replacing broken, shitty tools.

 

If they are not riveted on, they usually have a cotter pin on the bottom with a weird nut you need to use an air chisel to spin it off... Always a fun job.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i just figured out how to disable the passlock system on my crappy GM car viz the interweb, without spending a fucking dime.

also pretty sure i no longer have to worry about whether or not the car will start, since there are two pretty fucking straightforward fixes, one temp, one perm. fuck fuck fuck yes

 

sometimes i fucking love this place.

 

:heartbeat:

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Would the O2 sensor, or throttle sensor on a B16, restrict the VTEC system from kicking?

What could stop it?

The car is a EG coupe, with the B16 swap

 

i did that swap on my '91 LS integra once. Vtec didnt kick it cuz i didnt have the right ECU. my buddy did the same swap on the same kind of car but he had a button on his shifter knob to have the vtec kick in manualy.

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