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If the nib doesn't drip then push a small knifeblade through

it to maake slits all over the place to let ink flow into the nib,

then you control the inkflow by pressure, the harder you push

the nib the more ink gets squeezed out of it.

 

That top was from Pisang Ambon, green banana liquor from

Bols, i don't think it's available in the US anymore so just

look for liquor bottles with long tops.

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Originally posted by those_faces@Sep 1 2005, 06:17 PM

well today i tried something new(for me at least)

i took about 3/4 of a deco color out and put in some etch.

im hoping this will work for some nice color etch.

im going out tonight to try that shit so ill let you know. :love2:

 

love.

 

i heard that mixing etch with some stuff can make some fumes or somethin that can fuck you up, i don't know if it's true or not but thats what i heard

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_nightcrawler

 

Use a thick needle to make small holes right

through the nib, push the needle trough and

move it around in a small circle, i prefer to

place the holes in two rows of this pattern: .'.'.' <- awful illustration.

 

Then throw your favourite solvent or thinner

in the ink, not more than 5% of the total

amount of ink in the pen though.

Don't forget to pump the nib really good

for drips/splatters,

 

And yeah, you will probably not get

drips with the temperas original ink.

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Originally posted by ASPECT+Sep 3 2005, 03:10 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ASPECT - Sep 3 2005, 03:10 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-those_faces@Sep 1 2005, 06:17 PM

well today i tried something new(for me at least)

i took about 3/4 of a deco color out and put in some etch.

im hoping this will work for some nice color etch.

im going out tonight to try that shit so ill let you know. :love2:

 

love.

 

i heard that mixing etch with some stuff can make some fumes or somethin that can fuck you up, i don't know if it's true or not but thats what i heard

[/b]

etch bath is hydrofluoric acid. here's a link with info.

 

RISK ASSESSMENT: USE OF HYDROFLUORIC ACID

 

i wouldn't use this stuff even if you paid me. and, the idea of someone using it who has no idea how dangerous it is is sobering, to say the least. think about etch being to graff the same way steroids are to baseball- of course, there's short term results, but you know it's wrong... plus, you'll get caught someday, and your teammates won't like you in the meantime since you make them look bad too. it's just better to leave it alone, i can't stress that enough. it's done more to hurt graff than further it, since 90% of the time, it's small business owners who get hit....because, generally, people who etch windows don't care about the rules of engagement, like leaving mom and pops alone. and, it usually costs $1500 to $3000 to replace a plate glass window. that's an automatic felony, right there. so, if i haven't talked you out of it by now, please don't bring it up on this thread again. thanks.

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Originally posted by ASPECT+Sep 3 2005, 03:10 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ASPECT - Sep 3 2005, 03:10 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-those_faces@Sep 1 2005, 06:17 PM

well today i tried something new(for me at least)

i took about 3/4 of a deco color out and put in some etch.

im hoping this will work for some nice color etch.

im going out tonight to try that shit so ill let you know. :love2:

 

love.

 

i heard that mixing etch with some stuff can make some fumes or somethin that can fuck you up, i don't know if it's true or not but thats what i heard

[/b]

 

Unless you know chemistry, i really doubt youd be able to make colored etch, ive never seen that shit. When i was younger i once put food coloring in the shit to make it stain. But realized it only served to weaken the etch.

 

I myself have no strong opinions of etch, i wont condemn it, but i wont encourage it at the same time. But like Shai has said on a regular basis, its usually small time business that get hit.

 

And before i go on and talk more about it ill stop, i think talking about etch on here is frowned upon if not outright banned.

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Originally posted by panakeii@Sep 3 2005, 08:18 PM

_nightcrawler

 

Use a thick needle to make small holes right

through the nib, push the needle trough and

move it around in a small circle, i prefer to

place the holes in two rows of this pattern: .'.'.' <- awful illustration.

 

Then throw your favourite solvent or thinner

in the ink, not more than 5% of the total

amount of ink in the pen though.

Don't forget to pump the nib really good

for drips/splatters,

 

And yeah, you will probably not get

drips with the temperas original ink.

 

 

thanks bro. Just did it today. Works perfectly with nice drips.

peace.

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[attachmentid=20894]

 

here's some more...these are my favorites- metal bodies and valves, and the black one has a screw on cap. probably made in the sixties or seventies, and they're as good as new. if anyone has any flomaster pens, inks or tips, any size or color, that they'll part with for cash or trade, i'm looking...

flomaster.jpg.80313265ed129ccb1563a18779ddf255.jpg

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Aleene 2in1 Glue Marker

 

 

heres a pic of the marker in its packaging from their website:

 

187.jpg

 

 

i was in a Michael's art store the other day and saw this little gem. cost like 2 or 3 bucks and appeared to have a valve similar to OTR markers so i grabbed one to take home and experiment with. heres a picture of the marker with cap on next to a pepsi can for comparison (this pic is at a weird angle but this marker it a great pocketable size):

 

p10100066go.jpg

 

 

heres a pic with the cap off. the nib was smaller than i had expected but not that big of a deal to me. inside the cap, there is a plastic section that comes down over just the nib, so even if its sitting upside down and some ink drips through the nib, it wont go all over inside the cap.

 

p10100073gb.jpg

 

 

 

this pic shows the seperate pieces of the marker (the nib easily seperates from the plastic but i forgot to pull it out for the pic). when i first unscrewed the plastic part that holds the nib, i was unsure of wether i could get the actual valve part out, but i was able to pry it off as you can see. this makes for super easy filling of the marker.

 

p10100081rc.jpg

 

 

 

this is the finished marker. i ripped the label off, which left a really sticky residue all over the outside and im lazy so i just wrapped a paper towel around it. the glue that comes in it is a light blue and pretty easy to dump out and discard. i filled this up with a homemade ink consisting of pilot ink, dye, brake fluid, and pearl ex. i know that mix isnt going to create the super unbuffable mega ink but thats ok with me until i get some more dank stuff. as you can see the nib juiced up nicely.

 

p10100099jl.jpg

 

 

 

in this pic i just drew some lines to show the width of the nib and how easily you can get controlled drips. i have little experience with OTR markers, but the valve action seems very similar. the nib on this seems to be smaller than the mini OTR's, which is fine with me. id say the line is about the width of 1 finger (give or take).

 

p10100112sk.jpg

 

 

my purpose for this marker is for insides and other places where a mop isnt an easy option and this marker seems to fit the bill perfectly. it holds enough ink (for me at least) and i like how i can dismantle most all the parts of the marker easily. not to mention its not messy and wont empty in your pocket. so far im loving this thing and ill keep you updated on how well it holds up as time passes.

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^never seen that one before....it looks like a deodorant till you open it up, and the price is right. i'll have to check it out. thanks.

 

here's a gem i found...i went to office max a while ago to buy toner for the copier at work, and came across these, believe it or not...

 

[attachmentid=20897]

 

it had glass chalk in it, and they had about twenty of them on the shelf. since they were $1.99, i bought a few (on the company tab- thanks, guys) and tried them out. i put some marsh in one and took a walk. it works as well as any other flowpen i've tried. here, take a look...

 

[attachmentid=20899]

 

this is with montana on paper. it drips pretty well if you juice it, just not here. the tip is still in good shape after some use, but i don't use pens like this on rough surfaces since i like a clean line for chisel tags. i'd like to find out who distributes these bodies so i could buy them in bulk..i'll have to look into that. it sure beats paying eight bucks for an otr, though, if you're cheap like me and willing to put in the work.

chalk_pen.jpg.12530cd6b55e5cd43c90059cb8c5848d.jpg

tj.jpg.dbfd2a057e7cd7cf11217b68a8a2544f.jpg

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Originally posted by smellycunt@Sep 5 2005, 04:53 AM

on my trip a while ago now i picked a few of those markers with the purple lids up from a store in japan, but it has a black casing(for the ink) and had a japanese label on it, of course, works really well one of the best pump markers ive ever used.

 

by the way i like that tom jones tag

thanks...it's my official 12 oz. tag. he's the blackest white man i've ever seen, for sure.

 

i think all these pens are made in one factory- kind of like 90% of the bikes from taiwan are made by a couple of builders. i'd give up drinking for a year if i could find the dumpster behind the pen factory...or if they'd send me all their seconds, postage due. we could work it out. i'm ready.

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imma try to get a pic but i went into staples and in the last isle i found the dry erase markers.. buttt the greatest thing i saw was they have tops to put on the markers with the eraser in them.. so its like the nib jus ready to go all u need it an empty bottle/marker to place it on, easily customizable and u can jus glue/tape it together what not, it was 3.99 for 4 big (about an inch circle)tips, and 1.99 for 4 little ones(1cm circle)

just thought id share since its easier then stuffing the eraser felt in the marker lol

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I wouldn't drag along tic tac markers

due to the small amount of ink you

can have in them.

It's like those montana "micro" cans

that doesn't last for a tag unless you

use a really skinny cap.

 

The dry-erasers look nice.

 

I walked into a random artsupplystore

the other day and found a foam dabber

with plastic handle used for stenciling.

Then i discovered that it had the perfect

size for the holes of some dietary

supplement bottles, got hold of a

chubby plastic pill bottle, ripped of

the lid and threw in the dabber and

it filled almost the whole thing down

to the bottom.

 

Haven't tried it out with ordinary inks

yet as it sucks up a lot of liquid in

the bottle. Used it a bit for the

thing-we-can't-mention-on-12oz

though and it worked wonders, if

you needed a fatter layer you just

pressed it into the glass a bit

(the foam didn't spread drips all

around the place as i first expected).

 

Tonight I will try it with krink to

see if the dabber will fall out of

it's handle due to dissolved glue.

 

stencildabber.jpg

Dabber to the far right. Left pic is flying action once again.

The bottom wouldn't come off even though it was filled.

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Ok, no update on the dabber vs krink.

Basically it got killed in action but it didn't have

a fair chance as there were unpredicted elements

in action. Although you remember all rules about

chemicals when you tinker about with it in the

kitchen it seems you forget them while on the go.

 

In this case the rule "never mix **** with anything".

I pressed out most of it out of the dabber and then

poured some krink in the bottle and put the dabber

back, when i was about to pick it up it was boiling

hot and i removed the dabber accompanied by

thick white toxic smoke.

 

The story ends with me throwing the shit in a

paperbag and wrecking with boiling krink a

couple of minutes before the dabber disintegrated.

 

It was fun hitting up trucks with tags

that SMOKED for real though.

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