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Herb Question, please read..

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hey, one of my boys says that if you put stems and shit in to vodka or some kind of alcohol and leave it sit for a long long while it will get ya high as shit, im thinking that this is mos def untrue and that the vodka is what will fuck ya up, not the stems and shit of the herb...anyone ever heard/tried this? Thanks for any info..

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oK KIDDIES....WHAT YOU REALLY WANNA DO IS TAKE THOSE SAME STEMS WITH YOU TO SCIENCE CLASS....YOU SEE THE JARS THAT THE ANIMAL CORPSES ARE STORED IN......DIP THE STEMS IN THERE....NOW SMOKE THAT BUDDY.........

GET ENBALMED 2002..

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As far as I know stems and seeds have little to no THC(the shit that gets you buzzed). Thats why you throw the stems and seeds out the joint. It's the buds that have the highest concentration of THC, with the leaves having average amounts.

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i've read about this method elsewhere, but i can't remember if they put stems in the alcohol or just weed. i think it was just weed.

 

but i do know that it is possible to extract the thc from non-smokables like stems and husks and leaves. hash is made from non-smokeable parts of the plant. check out the reference sections at hightimes.com if it ever gets fixed, as far as i know it's still down. the question and answer part has tons of good info about stuff like this and also anything and everything you might ever want to know about pot.

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if the stems are fromreal good bud u can smoke em and get a decent buzz from it other than that they dont do shit but soaking weed in alcohol wont do anything anyway the thc has to be burned or cooked to be work.

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it doesn't need to be burned or cooked? you can eat that shit off the stem and get fucked up... I've seen some people put tobacco in vodka but I never really knew what it was supposed to do...

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Guest SPLINTER

ah mister SMARTguy i thought you were gonna bust out the real method to extract the THC. but maybe its a new thing and you do happen to be about twice my age so i forgive you :D .

 

the only way that you can truly get the most thc from your

stem/seeds/shadeleaves/unsmokables is the following method from erowid.

 

Hash Honey Oil

The Boffo Butane-PVC Hash Oil Extractor

Trash leaf to honey oil in minutes

by Indra - 5/1/99

------------------------------------------------------------------------

For those of us who never quite got over the loss when fine-quality hash oil disappeared from the market, and for cannabis connoisseurs of all ages everywhere, it would be my honor to write up what has to be the easiest, highest-yielding and most selective cannabis oil extraction method available to date.

This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping supply store, ~US$4.50) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase. The only other thing needed is about $2.00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I believe), and two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.

For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things "unofficially," butane (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber "honey oil" and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter. Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method. I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable "schwag" commercial pot too, and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.

METHOD:

 

1. In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.

2. In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker).

3. After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.

4. Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)

5. Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.

6. Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away. Seriously.

a. Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+. Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.) Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2") the receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.

7. Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.

8. When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and let it do its thing.

 

The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes. When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue of the extract. It is obvious no chlorophyll was pulled out of the herb.

Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole). When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.

Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature. The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water. Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20 minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing purity.

The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane. I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained. But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all "superboiled" out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial. I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropanol.

The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime "honey oil" hash oils that hit the market in the late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them. It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly what it does. Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils; the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off into your bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be allowed to burn up on your needle. So be careful.

Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the product a little with a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like Everclear or 90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop it onto buds or let a joint absorb some, then let the alcohol evaporate. I also observed that unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol; it needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.

 

 

EROWID Some concern has been expressed about the possibility of a PVC residue in the final product. This has not been verified, but a possible solution would be to use steel instead

 

i suggest you use steel kids :D

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i've had this drink your talkin about, it's called green dragon. take a bottle of vodka and like an eighth of midgrade (schwag if your a broke bitch). fill the bottle with bud, and let it sit outside in the sun for a day while goin outside to shake it every now and then. if the vodka has a greenish-yellowish tint to it, strain out the bud, put the vodka back in the bottle and put it in the freezer for an hour or two (liqour doesn't freeze). shit will get you nice and drunk. gives you that weird body high that ingesting bud gives you the next day though.

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Damn Splint, I thought I was the mad scientist w/ my weed butter work... that shit's some crank lab style stuff... definately avoid PVC and don't use copper either, galvanized is also iffy, but with stainless this shit would be freakin nuts, a person could double harvest production and cut waste in half...

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Take the undesirable portions of your stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything.

 

Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.

Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.

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Ive never tried this but my boss was telling me to do this last night get a real fine strainer and cooking oil put the stems into the strain and then place the strain in the pot filled with cooking oil and let it boil for 3 hours then take the strainer with the stems out of the oil and throw them out (or stick them up your ass if your a fucking fruit) then use the cooking oil with anything you can think of that needs it

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why would PVC come off if you aren't melting anything...

seems fine....don't you put water and shit through that, and butane isn't corrosive....someone care to explain?

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im pretty sure you all are refering to the exctraction of thc from the plant material? if so, there are plenty of ways to go about it. the better method, is to treat the plant matter your going to smoke with the extract you create, as to make it much more powerful (5x, 10x ect.....), much like alkaline described.

 

 

 

 

"MJ can be added to the beer at the same time hops are added. THC is oil

alcohol soluble and some of it will dissolve in the brew as it ferments.

Before being used for brew, the MJ should be thoroughly dried until

it is crispy. This activates all the THC by removing water molecules from

the THC molecules. Next the MJ should be gently washed by soaking it in

cold water for several hours. This removes some of the water soluble tars

and chlorophyll associated with the "grassy" taste of MJ injestables.

Nevil, of the Seed Bank, first discorved that when soaking in cold

water, some of the glands fall off the pot and collect on the bottom of

the container. These glands are so clean and free of plant debris, that

when smoked they produce hardly any smoke and only an "essence" of taste.

It's almost like smoking oil. Nevil also discovered that these glands can

be rolled into a very brittle "hash". However, this material melts easily

when heated, and does not re-solidify.

One easy way to handle the MJ is by using a giant nylon net "tea bag".

These are often sold in brewing stores.

It is hard to say how much MJ goes in the brew since different people

are sensitive to different amounts, and the quality of MJ varies greatly.

Years ago, the Unknown Brewer used to add one ounce shade leaves per

gallon of brew. This comes to about 1/10 ounce per bottle. Of course,

less high quality grass would be needed."

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all i know is a friend came over with some mighty old leaves and wanted to try it and had the pipe with the caps but it was really small. We drilled one hole for the butane, and then we only had a slightly smaller drill bit for the "pepper shaker" holes....and when he did it the butane ran right through....as if there was nothing there. He then waited for it to drip but it didn't drip. The light green butane stuff dried...and created a little filmy layer on the bottom that could be scraped up. He wants to know what he did wrong....

or if he did everything wrong...

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from erowid...

 

2.Drinking

One may extract the active ingredients from marijuana using alcohol and then use this tincture to make a potent drink.

The highest proof alcohol available should be used, preferably 190 proof grain alcohol, since the water in the alcohol will

dissolve other chemicals in the marijuana that one wishes to avoid. Some suggest soaking the grass in warm water for

a period to remove those chemicals but that presents a whole host of other and is not really recommended. One may

simply place the marijuana into a bottle of grain alcohol and let the canabanoids leach out, but this takes 2-3 weeks of

time. A faster method is to heat the alcohol to sub-boiling and stir in the marijuana. Great deal of care should be taken if

this method is chosen as the alcohol is highly flammable. The resulting tincture, often called "Green Dragon", is a light to

emerald green liquid, which can be drunk straight, but this is not recommended. Highly lauded is a drink of 3 parts

lemon lime soda, 1 part green dragon and a dollop of honey served over ice.

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Guest willy.wonka

the green dragon sounds tight.....but when it comes to a nice fat stem,i like to chew on it....thats all

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