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Sprayperm.


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So... I want to have a serious thread here. Let’s talk stains. With paint. The Ink recipe thread is all about permanent ink, but let’s hear about paint

(spray and bucket) and buff methods specifically. I'd love to hear some buff experiences with any brands of paint.

 

So to start it off, here’s my experiences.

_______________________________________________________________________

 

1st off >> Obviously painting over shit with roller paint always works, so lets talk sand/solution blast or solvent for buff.

_____________________________________________________________________

 

- Krylon >> Any flat colours leave nice ghosts on plastic and raw metal. Nice ghosts on cement if pressure washed. Otherwise... shits water.

 

- Painters touch (Rusto) >> Nice coverage on porous surfaces. Brick, wood, rusty metal, unprimed concrete. Good, but not hot, on plastic and really smooth cement. Flat colours obviously top of the game.

 

- Montana (German) >> Ok. Not so hot for buff marks. Great with a fat cap, but buff is on and off. I think Montana is as good as the buff in your town. Here, it’s not so hot. Occasional stains on raw concrete.

 

- Belton >> I'd love to hear some bombing feedback on this shit, as I've never used it. Let’s hear your metal and plastic results.

 

- Generic >> This includes anything under $4. I've actually had some pretty awesome results with the shit brands. I'd probably use this shit all the time if it was more compatible with common caps, unfortunately... I love fat caps, and they are rarely compatible up here.

 

- Canada Pride (American Accents) >> Cheap brands by rusto. I don’t really fuck with these too much, as I can afford better shit, so let us know.

 

- Kilz >> I hear this shit is the bomb. But at $7 Canadian a can, I'm skeptical. Let’s hear your reports.

 

P.S.

 

I'd love too hear some of the 12 oz. crews comment.

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if they want to buff it theyre going to buff it

 

it all depends on how good the company is thats doing the washing some half ass it, and others will do a very good job and get rid of it all.

 

also depends on the colors involved.

 

the surface( is the surface new? or has it been there for a while?)

 

i mean you cant just say this will do this and this will do that

 

*HOWEVER*

 

kils is pretty good, its not only paint but its a sealant, meaning it will get in the pores and seal them. Whish is perfect for brick and other such surfaces.

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krylon and rusto all sell for under 4 dollars.

 

Supposedly there is a special black montana that was originally developed for sealing the bottoms of motor vehicles. Its supposed to be really hard to do a good buff job.

 

But like CA said, its all relative. If you hit some small mom and pop store they are likely to do the cheapest buff possible.

Places with more money may even go as far as repainting the entire wall.

 

If they are determined to rid there walls of your shit, they will regardless of what kind of shit you used.

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Originally posted by beardofzeus@Jan 23 2006, 05:58 PM

krylon and rusto all sell for under 4 dollars.

 

Supposedly there is a special black montana that was originally developed for sealing the bottoms of motor vehicles. Its supposed to be really hard to do a good buff job.

 

 

 

that would be the bitumenous black, it contains tar

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American Accents Canyon Black and Farmhouse Red

 

are two of the most indelible american paint colors in my experience.

both will leave a 'ghost' when buffed with a blaster

(water blast or sandblast will leave an outline around the edges of your tag. looks real good if you use a fat cap)

sometimes it'll also stain through a paint buff too.

 

Killz is the thickest white i think.

 

Montana Nitro is pretty ill for foreign paint with staying power against the buff, but i've heard it fades bad over time. shits like tar, it dries brown. (i think this is what everyone is referring to, it fucking only works with the fat cap that comes on the can and it's like 16oz or however many mLs that is)

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Kilz is only white and its that hot shit, works very nice. also kilz makes and odorless version. also a can that is used for painting ceilings, which seemed pretty cool. i onlky fucked with original kilz, none of the other stuff i mentioned (or kilz bucket paint which i wouldnt mind trying).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Paint is paint. There's nothing in it that will stain. It doesn't matter what you use, really. It'll all get buffed somehow. If you want to get something that will bleed through, find a way to get ink into a spray can, or just use markers. Personally, I don't care if they buff it. I'll just do another.

 

The only experience I've ever had with a can of spray paint eating through buff is fresh undercoater on concrete. If they buff it right away, as the undercoater (bitumen, coversall, whatever you want to call it) dries and would otherwise fade out if left unbuffed, the buff paint over it starts to peel, and your outline comes through as the paint flakes off. Interesting, but again, I'd rather just do another toss instead of trying to beat the system with materials.

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