Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Recommended Posts

Just started a set of Trad Gear this week. I have 2 boulder pads, sport quick draws... Ive been Climbing in the north east for years if anyone is ever up here get ahold of me.


Alex Honnold kills it; that solo is absolutely insane and probably wont be repeated for 20+ years.. Soloing stuff is a great experience but my friends had once ran into him while they were leading a 5.12d in Rumney NH, he soloed up the 13a next to them and told them to "Lose the rope, boys." Met him at the top and I guess he was smug as fuck to locals and everything.

Free soloing is the a great thrill, but a much debated topic in the climbing community. Many view it as unnecessarily dangerous, Although i do enjoy it as much as the next person, as far as community norms go, its not exactly something to brag about

Link to post
Share on other sites
This forum is supported by the 12ozProphet Shop, so go buy a shirt and help support!
This forum is brought to you by the 12ozProphet Shop.
This forum is brought to you by the 12oz Shop.
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Four day wknd in Joshua Tree. Word the fuck up!

Got some for the first time in too long

I did indoor rock climbing in camp.  Recently,  I went to The Garden Of The Gods and spotted a boulder I wanted to climp.   (Crappy pictures)     Plenty of Holes....

Posted Images

I def get the enjoyment of it, but I don't get the "it's the only way to climb" mentality.

I lost a good friend to a climbing accident on a sport route. A helmet would have saved his life, but if he hadn't been on rope a helmet wouldn't have done shit...

Link to post
Share on other sites

This was almost a decade ago, I've dealt with it, but it's one of the main reasons I stick to bouldering now. Though I've seen some gnarly, nonfatal accidents with that, too.


The explanation from the guy on the route with him:


"Hello all. My name is Steve Mills and I was the belayer and good friend of of the late James Harr. Here is what happened: we reached the third belay and decided, after much deliberation and attempted route-finding, to forego the last pitch on account of the weather and rap down. We lowered down to the second belay, and then down to the anchors atop Thunderbolt, a short 11d to the right of Rincon. These anchors are about forty feet off the ground. We both reached these anchors and were very excited to be almost back to earth. It was very cold and windy and we were not adequately clothed. James tied a bight in the rope and hooked it to his harness so that both ends of the rope would not fall to the ground when he pulled it from the previous rappel. I took one end of the rope, fed it through the o-rings and tied in. he put me on belay and lowered me down. What happened at this point is still not entirely clear to me, but it certainly involved James tying into the bight on his harness, or to some middle point on the rope, instead of tying in to the OTHER END. Consequently, when I pulled through the slack and had him tight, we were only working with a very small portion of the rope. I saw a pile of rope to the left of me, and felt the tension in the line. I asked James two times if everything looked right to him and he said to go ahead and lower. I began lowering, and about halfway down to the ground the rope zipped through my hand and through the grigri, leaving James twenty feet to fall. He landed on his back and head. If he had been tied into the other end of the rope there is no way that I could have had him taught AND have the rope run through the grigri. James and I had a brief but wonderful climbing partnership. His last words were "Wow, we have amazing chemistry," which was entirely true. We are both experienced climbers - I trusted him and he trusted me and were were always very safe. But somewhere amidst the excitement of reaching the ground after an hour and a half descent and the discomfort of the cold and wind, we lost some of our circumspection; he made an error and I in turn made an error by not noticing it. And he lost his life because of it. May you rest in peace James: you will never be forgotten; you shall continue to inspire me and all others that knew you, as of course you always have."


A lot can be read into what could have been done differently. Both dudes were very experienced, not noobs at all. Accidents/mistakes/shit happens. It's a battle I choose not to fight anymore.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Again, sorry to hear that man. And I appologize for asking, I think with something like this it may be beneficial to learn where others have gone wrong.


Im very fortunate to have a couple of experienced guys to show me what's up and Im glad I have enough of their confidence to put their lives in my hands.


Webe gone a few times with a meet up group filled with other people I don't know and I rarely let any of them belay me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Went indoor today and had a blast.


Handled a few different 5.9 and got halfway up a couple 5.10


Got a crimpy v3 under my belt today as well



Wanna go indoor more to focus on cleaning up my technique.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't let gym ratings give you too much of an ego boost. They're almost like two different sports. I love gyms, but I've crushed v8s in a gym, gone outside and been totally dominated by v3s of similar style.


So good for technique, though. And strength building. I used to go to my gym for like 4 hours, go grab lunch and take a quick hike, come back and burn another 4 hours. Great way to spend the winter to ensure you don't wind up weak in the spring.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree those ones seem wayyyyyyy easier. I'm usually grunting and sweating my way up 5.7 outdoor and I was flying up those 5.9 inside.


Fun as hell but kinda feel like they don't count Ya know..


I really need to work on my footwork. I guess I do a bunch of weird shit w them that I don't realize... Starting out w my toe planted and kinda rolling my foot so the outside ball by pinky toe is supporting me. Hard to explain. Feels right but I guess it makes problems for me with where my knees are at.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 6 months later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...