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Painting clean


HAL

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where i come from writers have this whole asshole persona they seam to think is vital to being a respected writer, it's just cool to see a writer actually helping the toys out instead of just going over their shit and taking their shit

on the other hand all that shit you get when your starting out kinda builds character no?

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sure, but it isn't necessary. a lot of people will be an asshole just because they can, regardless of whether they have anything to teach you. this applies to life in general. graffiti experience is the best teacher- and part of experience is geting schooled, and knowing when and where that education applies to you. i try to answer all the intelligent questions i see here with my opinion, which is based on years of trial and error. sometimes, i talk shit, but only when i can add a little comic relief...not to make someone feel inferior. the only dumb question is the one that goes unasked due to pride or doubt, and the learning curve for graff is a motherfucker. ask anyone who had to work hard for theirs....however, the rewards are there for anyone willing to take the time and risks. i appreciate someone who's willing to take the time to show others how to come correct- we all have something to learn here. thanks.

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yeah.that E is is little weak...or maybe not my style or whatever, But yeah Old growth...you're the man...When I was coming up I had to fight the old heads around the way to learn the styles...no Joke, This oldschool cat who wrote "Temp" used to make me fight him and then he would show me some dope wildstyles with the ill straight bar arrow connections after he lumped me up a little.....how things change.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It seems Old Growth is busy, but I'm sure he doesn't feel too possesive about the tutorial idea. There are a lot of ill writers on this board, why not spend a few extra minutes getting step by step flicks next time you're at the chill spot?

 

12 ounce could be a great resource if people were as willing to share practical advice as they are to drop the information that should remain a secret. I agree that people need to learn graffiti through experience, but you can spend years at a practice wall and not figure out the best way to do things. On the other hand, if someone breaks down the basics here, and then people go apply those techniques in the real world, they can advance quickly and we all get to see more dope pieces.

 

I don't currently have the opportunity to hit a chill spot or get work in progress flicks, but I can offer a couple of hints for cleaner painting. I've learned them over the course of nearly ten years, the first three of which I spent completely self-taught. Once I started meeting other writers and painting with them, I began to improve much more rapidly, because while there are no rules as to how one must paint, there are some fundamentals that you really need to know. First and foremost, move quickly. When you're trying to get a straight line, it can be a little nerve wracking, and the tendency is to go "slow and steady". This will result in a wavy, drippy line. Instead, practice the line a few times by moving your hand from point A to point B without actually pressing the nozzle. Actually, start a little bit before point A and go a little bit past point B-- you can always clean up the endpoints later. As you do this, visualize the paint spraying and the line appearing. (It's kind of like taking a shot while playing pool.) If it seems right, take a deep breath and do that shit for real. You want to move as fast as you can while still maintaining control-- don't go so fast that you end up missing your mark. with a little bit of experience, you'll soon figure out how quickly you need to move to avoid drips. This of course varies based on brand of paint, color, surface, temperature, and about a million other variables. And if you make a mistake, don't get frustrated and rush to cover it up. That just makes things worse. Go work on something else, and come back to it when it has dried completely. Also, if you can tell that you are about to get a drip, you can gently blow upwards on it and prevent it sometimes.

 

A great way to learn can control is to find a chill spot and do some exercises. Instead of painting a piece at first, just try painting a bunch of different size circles, triangles, rectangles, and squares. Work on getting sharp right angles, even curves, and parallel lines. Then put 3Ds and outlines around them. Do some pretty big ones, and then see how small you can make them and still look allright. Once you've got this down, try doing pieces as small as you can. This can be frustrating and tedious (and is almost the only time that you should be painting smaller) but is absolutely the best way to learn how to be really, really clean. If you can do a clean piece that's nine inches tall and two feet long, then you'll never have trouble making a four foot by nine foot look tight. Just be really meticulous, figure out which lines can be used to cut which other lines, and work in that order. Also, if you work from the top down, when you do get drips it will be a lot easier to clean them up.

 

Another important aspect of clean painting that I think is often overlooked by newer writers is the distance between the can and the wall. The only way you're going to get a line that maintains a uniform width is by holding the can at a consistent angle (preferably exactly parallel to the wall) and at a uniform distance from the wall. It's the exact opposite of using a fat cap to make flares. When you're practicing, try painting something with the can consistently one inch from the wall, and then paint the same thing holding your can four inches from the wall. Once you get the hang of this, you can get an outline of virtually any thickness in one stroke. Keep in mind, though, that the closer you are, the more likely you are to get drips.

 

And finally, don't pop the top off of a new can and immediately head for the trickiest part of your piece. A fresh can of paint has a lot of propellant in it, and even if you barely press the nozzle, that shit will be really anxious to get out of the can and all over your perfectly faded fill. Instead, grab a can that's half full, turn it upside down, and spray it for a while. It should come out clear, because you're releasing pressure but not paint this way. After a minute or so of doing this, go test it on an inconspicuous spot. The paint should come out much more slowly, and will be far less likely to drip. If your 3D and your outline are the same color, fill a bunch of the 3D first to use up pressure, and then go back to do your cuts and really fine lines with the end of the can. I generally save scrap cans of certain colors so that if I just want them for some fine detailing, I don't have to waste all the propellant and end up throwing away a pressureless can that's three quarters full.

 

I hope people find this helpful, and again, sorry I don't have pictures. I will try to get some next time I'm piecing a spot where it is practical to do so. In the meantime, keep in mind that there is no substitute for a ton of practice, and that putting in work (no matter how tedious) will yield great rewards eventually. And thanks to Old Growth for being cool about putting people on to his techniques.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by El Mikinbin De Miami@Sep 23 2005, 11:56 PM

THat was str8. I'm more interested in HOW DO YOU MAKE THE FADES FROM ONE COLOR TO THE OTHER PERFECT?? I'd like to see some flix and explanation of that. 2 color fading

 

 

Theres atleast two ways of doing that. Try using a soft cap and blend it in...works for me. I cant be fucked explaining the other way of blending...its not hard though. Use your fucking brain and you might learn how to blend 2 colours :idea: :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fuck, i am a toy this thread is fucking awesome, and its even more awesome that someone is willing to help out noobs, I like what Hal said too, " if someone wants to learn a style, i'll even teach them if they want" I like that because he knows too as well as my noob ass does, everyone bites to make there own style.

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Fuck, i am a toy this thread is fucking awesome, and its even more awesome that someone is willing to help out noobs, I like what Hal said too, " if someone wants to learn a style, i'll even teach them if they want" I like that because he knows too as well as my noob ass does, everyone bites to make there own style. Everything has, was, or is biten.

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dude...this is a sweet thread for all the toys out there that have only been writing like 1 year and a half...(me included) ...its been really helpful

 

ok, so you have been painting for a year and a half and you dont know how to do cut backs, really really basic lettering and forcefields, lowlights and so on?

 

anyone who still needs to read this tutorial after painting for a year and a half should take a serious look at wether there cans have any paint in them , cus dear god thats slow progress.

 

 

this is a wicked tutorial though if i knew someone who wanted to start graff id happily link this to them, its proper helpfull for brand new beginners (shouldnt be helpfull for people of a year and a halfs experience i would have thought haha)

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I have been writing for almost 2 years now, bombing in Tulsa OK, fayetevill and KC and for the first time just met and causually hung out with another writer, for alot of us, it was damn..thats tight looking..quick grab mommy camera, snap a shot and study the picture till my eyes burned, and from others, and studing it, we picked it up. Observation, it wouldnt hurt to just sit, and look at walls for a few hours a week..just stop..and spend a good ammount of time on a single piece to try and pick up some tidbits of information on how they did it.

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