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yo im lookin for fat caps for rusto wider then orange fronts any ideas

 

AGE OLD QUEST

 

 

right now the only thing is NY Fats and you'll probably have to widen the stem (look a few pages back if you need a tutorial)

 

 

i think i fill faster with the "orange front" rusto fats tho

 

try cutting the slit on the stem of them fatter. you should get a line an inch or two fatter

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this thread is the whole reason you cant rack rusto fats off of elmers anymore. thanks. no go stick your painting hand down a disposal.

 

you really think that's true?

 

if so, how does that explain the entire can design being changed?

 

 

also, like I said a few pages back if people didn't "blow spots" then we wouldn't be able to purchase rusto fats, ny thins & fats, boston rusto thins, etc. from shops

 

 

 

i think we should all take a note from heads like Oujia tho and start bringing a pocket full of stocks whenever we go to nab caps and exchange the nabbed cap with a stock so customers aren't all UMADWTF when they buy a product with no cap

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I bought a bunch of caps, so I need to know just a couple of things.

 

FIRST UP, TOY ALERT- LOOK AWAY IF YOU CAN'T ANSWER TOY QUESTIONS

 

Level 1's are black dots right? And Level 3's are grey dots? If not, what's the difference?

 

Also, I have these caps that look like NY fats but they're pink.. wtf are they?

 

How does one tell the difference between NY thins and fats?

 

I have a see through cap that looks just like a black dot, but it's see through and it's a fat cap. WTF IS IT? (I mean, I know it's fat :P).

 

I have these black banana w/ grey dots. Looks like german outline #4 but it's grey dot not black. Also have one with yellow dot. What are these?

 

What are level 2's used for?

 

Apart from those I'm all good. Thanks for any help. It's really appreciated.

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I bought a bunch of caps, so I need to know just a couple of things.

 

FIRST UP, TOY ALERT- LOOK AWAY IF YOU CAN'T ANSWER TOY QUESTIONS

 

Level 1's are black dots right? And Level 3's are grey dots? If not, what's the difference?

 

Also, I have these caps that look like NY fats but they're pink.. wtf are they?

 

How does one tell the difference between NY thins and fats?

 

I have a see through cap that looks just like a black dot, but it's see through and it's a fat cap. WTF IS IT? (I mean, I know it's fat :P).

 

I have these black banana w/ grey dots. Looks like german outline #4 but it's grey dot not black. Also have one with yellow dot. What are these?

 

What are level 2's used for?

 

Apart from those I'm all good. Thanks for any help. It's really appreciated.

 

You have a lot of questions. I will only help with one.

 

NY thins have smaller thinner ridges on the outside, NY fats have slightly wider ridges.

 

For the rest just go try them out. You don't need to know their names to spray them through a can of paint.

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ok .I hope I can jump in and ask something. I am currently 36 and have been painting since 1980 and lately I have been feeling the caps are not as simple as they are advertised. For a long time I had been putting on a cap and feeling it wasn't working rite let's say a grey german cap and they would all be the same from the same place and maybe 10 would work one way with really tight soft lines and another 10 would work differently. I couldn't remember this ever happening years ago. This brings me to my question ,what are the numbers on the face of the cap and underneath . I have heard many different things. Some say the number underneath is the level and the front 2 are the flare or effect? I have asked the supply house in ordering caps and they say it's nothing but routing numbers and not for me? I also have just recently been piecing more and had saved a can here and there of all montanas and beltons over time and been noticing the gold and grey dots don't work on either. Could they be so old they are different? Made for Krylon only? This has been driving me nuts.I am aware that asking questions at times looks foolish,but I always used rusto or krylon, and find to this day the rite stock cap is sometimes the best.All I want is to be able to get the smallest tightest cap possible for detailed work, and be able to rely on it working as advertised.Lastly does anyone know how to contact the actual manufacturer or even their company name? the caps just have that Li it looks like?New York outlines are great but clog too often, at least for me. Rusto is still my favorite if they only had a low pressure can and valve.

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Thanks I will look into that . I never used one of those. What about for Montana hardcore, belton premium and high pressure? I already have a few crates of that paint and in all honesty am happy with it. I luckily obtained a grip of it in a trade, leaving my original question and problem what are the numbers on the caps? And if they are to explain the caps use how are they read accurately?

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ok .I hope I can jump in and ask something. I am currently 36 and have been painting since 1980 and lately I have been feeling the caps are not as simple as they are advertised. For a long time I had been putting on a cap and feeling it wasn't working rite let's say a grey german cap and they would all be the same from the same place and maybe 10 would work one way with really tight soft lines and another 10 would work differently. I couldn't remember this ever happening years ago. This brings me to my question ,what are the numbers on the face of the cap and underneath . I have heard many different things. Some say the number underneath is the level and the front 2 are the flare or effect? I have asked the supply house in ordering caps and they say it's nothing but routing numbers and not for me? I also have just recently been piecing more and had saved a can here and there of all montanas and beltons over time and been noticing the gold and grey dots don't work on either. Could they be so old they are different? Made for Krylon only? This has been driving me nuts.I am aware that asking questions at times looks foolish,but I always used rusto or krylon, and find to this day the rite stock cap is sometimes the best.All I want is to be able to get the smallest tightest cap possible for detailed work, and be able to rely on it working as advertised.Lastly does anyone know how to contact the actual manufacturer or even their company name? the caps just have that Li it looks like?New York outlines are great but clog too often, at least for me. Rusto is still my favorite if they only had a low pressure can and valve.

 

Good question... It made me curious so I starting looking through a bag of grey dots I have..

 

I don't know for sure, but I think they might be batch numbers or some sort of manufacturing mark... Maybe each mold at the factory is numbered or something. So that when one starts producing wonky caps they know which one it is, and can fix it.

 

I don't think it has anything to do with how it sprays, I have a bag of about 50 and pretty much every one is different.

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ALSO; Just read an online book, solved all my questions easier and quicker than this whole thread. The book freaking rules. NOTE: This is free and the website doesn't sell anything so don't b& me please. Link is http://www.a2planet.com/guide/work/index-revb.html . Has a bit about caps in the middle, comparing of paint (hating on German Montana always lol) and other various things like what to do if your caught, BLAH BLAH BLAH. Point is, my cap troubles fixed and it has a nice part about caps in it.

 

/Thread/Thread

 

Sorry for double post, but I couldn't edit :\.

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so these boston thins are worth picking up? what about the fats they make?

 

the sekt caps are cool but i don't like how the cap sits a little higher than normal, that's why i am interested in these new joints.

 

 

edit:

 

i just ordered a 50 pack of each of their (trout) female caps (3 types), so we'll soon see if they were worth it. the shipping wasn't bad either.

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