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CAPS sooperthread

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This forum is brought to you by the 12ozProphet Shop.
This forum is brought to you by the 12ozProphet Shop.
This forum is brought to you by the 12oz Shop.

Follow up to the convo about cap adapters before:

 

I bought a couple of cap adapters (male cans to male caps) off the butchershop. I'm gonna go over them a bit, might be a little long winded. It may help out some of the Aussies/NZ'ers and to the Americans considering them for the new rusto.

 

First of all, I'm real sorry to the dude who makes these, it's like a hard kick in the nuts when someone gives your product shit, I know what it's like.

 

Basically the cap adapters are just a piece of brass pipe that's been drilled on one side to fit the can and one side to fit the cap, it looks like they've put it in a lathe and recessed one side of it, the only reason I can see that they've done this is so that you know which side is which.

 

When you put the cap on it it makes the cap sit about 15mm higher than usual, it's a little wierd/uncomfortable but possibly one could get used to it.

 

When you put a cap into it, it seems to shave some of the plastic off the stem meaning it will probably reduce the life of your caps.

 

The way it sprays is pretty shit.

 

There's still no way for it to regulate pressure so it's going full nut all the time. The only thing that will restrict pressure is the hole in the dot of the cap.

 

I tried a massive range of caps with it from NY's, Rustos, a bunch of euro skinnys and fats. They all seem to spray the same size though, about medium thickness give or take a bit depending on the cap. I tried Astros/pinks/oranges/silver fats and they're no where near as fat as usual. The skinnys weren't too bad but still there's waaay too much paint coming out. Possibly all this had something to do with my can control, I'm still pretty toy but I tried a lot of stuff with them and still not much luck.

 

All and all I think these are really overpriced especially since they serve almost no purpose at all.

 

Hope that was of some help to someone out there, if anyone knows of a way to make these things work better I'd really appreciate if someone could let me know.

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Can anybody share some knowledge re. how to modify caps to produce ultra skinny "pencil thin" lines... similar to the line work used in OsGemeos' characters.

P1010088.JPG

I assume the idea is to restrict the paint flow through the cap. Possibly by putting something in the stem. Any help would be appreciated.

(Ps. I'm also aware that you can buy needle caps, but i'm interested in different ways of modifying everyday caps (skinnies and fats) not buying speciality caps)

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Ther basically fat caps that are about 3-5 inch spray. my numbers could be wrong but either way they spray fat

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Can anybody share some knowledge re. how to modify caps to produce ultra skinny "pencil thin" lines... similar to the line work used in OsGemeos' characters.

P1010088.JPG

I assume the idea is to restrict the paint flow through the cap. Possibly by putting something in the stem. Any help would be appreciated.

(Ps. I'm also aware that you can buy needle caps, but i'm interested in different ways of modifying everyday caps (skinnies and fats) not buying speciality caps)

 

is that guy burning an opium plant in that picture?

 

also, let me know when you figure out how to modify these caps.

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paper / smithxi

 

You get those thin spitting lines by choking the cap, i.e. pushing the cap down to the point where it just barely lets paint/gas through - it just requires some practice to learn the pressure control. While choking it like that you kan even get the cap really close to the wall without any drips. Some cans are better for this as their valve is more responsive, like Belton Molotows, while other cans basically have an on and off mode - either full spray or no spray at all.

 

When you first start to experiment with this you can make it easier by reducing the pressure in the can, the easiest way is to use a fatcap, turning your can upside down and push it against the ground for a minute or so to let out the gas (you can obviously just flip the can and push the cap down normally but that can be tiresome for your finger - the against-the-ground-approach also allows you to push down a couple of cans at a time).

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ah, sweet advice. I need to get some Belton and Molotow. I'll experiment with the low pressure Krylon and Rusto. But do you know why the magnet trick isn't working on a Krylon Interior and Exterior with a 25lb pull? It works good on the Krylon Fusion!?

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Different lines of paint use different mixing balls. Some use metal balls while other use glass marbles or rubber balls.

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Thanks rabiater. I see what you mean with reducing the aerosol pressure in the can and putting very little finger pressure on the cap.

I still have this feeling in the back of my mind tho, that I once heard that you could achieve the same effect by putting something in the stem, thus reducing the flow of the paint. Same idea, different technique.

But not to worry, I'll continue to experiment. If anyone else knows what I'm talking about, or has other cap modification techniques, feel free to add :)

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Different lines of paint use different mixing balls. Some use metal balls while other use glass marbles or rubber balls.

 

what does rusto or american accent use?

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Paper

 

If you put something directly in the stem the same amount of paint will go into the cap but not all gets through so it's going to be messy after a few sprays. What you want to do is to block up a bit of the notch at the base of the stem - it regulates the amount of paint that gets from the can into the cap. Longer/broader notch gives a harder paint flow while thin/short notch gives a softer paint flow. You could try taking a small amount of good glue and carefully apply it with a nail into the top of the notch (and try to not get any on the inside/outside of the notch or simply filing off excess later) to reduce the length of it and let it dry. Could do the trick.

 

smithxi

 

I don't know really as i don't use magnets - apply a strong magnet to the base of the can and you know if its metal/nonmetal at least. Shouldn't be illegal to bring a magnet to your local supplier and try it out on various cans. Another less discreet way is to throw the cans into a fire and play CSI with the exploded can - that way you know exactly what material the mixing balls are made of.

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^hahah playing CSI. i have to admit. i did that shyt b4 and with a full can. it was only cuz the can had been pierced somehow so i decided it light it on fire.

good time good times.

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Yeah thats what I'm on about Rabiater. Thankyou.

You make a lot of sense. Reducing the size of the notch reduces the paint intake and thus reduces the flow.

Perhaps shortening the stem a couple of mm (cutting or sanding it down) would also work.

Will let you know how it goes.

Peace.

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and remember, if you decide to play CSI, always throw the cans into your fire place in your house. that way, not only do you get to examine the mixing ball, you also get a cool new color on your walls!

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