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Spray Paint


Guest SayOne

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Really interesting response, thanks for writing that out. You've clearly got a sound understanding of your operating environment over there and that's really good to hear. It's amazing how many people still go in to places like China without first knowing the lay of the land. It's funny to think that somewhere in inland China there is a very Chinese town with burners on a few of its walls. I do see some pretty decent stuff in surprising places over there when I travel from time to time though. They usually look a few years old and as if some one from the US or Europe has traveled through as some point.

 

I'm interested in your experiences regarding IPR though. Has the implementation of regulations always been at the levels you mention or have you seen an increase in govt diligence over recent years?

 

regarding the paint, I still have some of that old bulk prushase left. When I get around to painting again I'll send you a record of any probs should any arise.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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picking up the discussion from the previous page about which paints last on steel..

 

I've had great performance from Montana Hardcore paint on panels. Some stuff I either saw personally or had benched as much as 7 or 8 years old still looking good. Little color fade or color change.

 

Rusto obviously lasts pretty well. I've even had some panels I did in krylon come back 8 or 10 years later and holding up pretty well. The old krylon I have seen didn't tend to resist fading as much as the rusto.. but thats pretty well obvious even at the point you are painting it that there is some noticeable consistency difference.

 

Part of it depends on how much paint you are applying. I tend to layer my paint. So later even after years of wear from weather and the sun there are vibrant layers of paint underneath the top weathered layer.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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004 Connec of Miami is happy to announce a brand new formula and valve system for the EVOLVE paint line. So it seemed only fitting to dress the can with a new design as well. An American owned Paint Company available online for $4.50 a can, you can't beat it! Check it out at 004CONNEC.COM

 

ewoksbigappleredWEB.jpg

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It seems as though the verdict for metal/transit is Montana Gold, MTN Hardcore, and Molotow are the only durable paints besides my boy Rusto

 

I'm interested in treating myself to a case of something that will NOT FADE on metal but the aforementioned paints are priced a little more than I would like to pay. anyone have suggestions?

 

Great information here though. Its funny how overwhelming trying to choose and buy paint is proving to be when you have been on a Rustoleum diet for years

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without the benefit of being able to afford or get a connect on some premium paints (the ones which are good for steel) I'd suggest sticking with the rusto and trying new adapter and nozzle combos. I don't really use the rusto that requires an adapter since I have a stockpile of the old cans, but even at that.. trying a wide range of nozzles can yield a major difference in the flow and control characteristics of paint.. even the cheaper cans. try some new ones you've never thought to try with american paint before.

 

short of racking it, or having a connect for it, or just straight up paying retail you got a few options..

 

1. buy in bulk.. you'll get a much better deal even on the expensive cans if you toss 1k at paint at once

 

2. start distributing premium cans yourself (this also usually requires buying in bulk)

 

3. get some sign jobs.

 

If you get some sign jobs then a part of the process is usually the person doing the job (you) ordering paint. you are the one who decides how much paint it takes to complete your job.

9 times out of 10 in the process of negotiating cost for a project you'll end up agreeing to take less than what you think the job is worth. padding your paint cost estimate is a great way to equalize that factor. so the job should take 40 cans? estimate it at 55 cans for example. in the end you maybe took 3500 for the job instead of the 4500 you bid the job at.. but you're also going to be walking away with some extra paint.

 

im sure ive missed some angles but.. the sign job thing usually works pretty well. almost nobody wants to pay what a legit sign job costs but they have no clue how much paint it actually takes.. turns out to be a good angle.

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100% has the right idea, wholesale anything rules. if you can get wholesale prices on stops rust black and white that's really all you need for lasting panels - my friends use the adapters and swear by them, their trains come out fine.

 

i was all-rusto too, but earlier this year, i went the wholesale route from one of the big paint manufacturers - if you come to them with a dollar amount, especially over $1000, they'll listen. shop around too. in the end i got about 700 cans of paint for rock-bottom shipping and some extra gear/other goodies. definitely a good move.

 

keep in mind that filling with stops rust and outlining with something like ironlak is also an option. the lak will still fade but the stops rust underneath it will help it hold on for much much longer.

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@Injury what paint did you switch over too? And Rusto-fill montana/belton outline is kinda what I was going for but that being said I've done Rusto fills with Valspar outline's on boxcars and saw them rollback 1+ year later all faded up.

 

@100% I usually just rock stock caps unless its really cold out but maybe I should try out new caps. I've used and been happy with the adapters with wings on em but not the pink Sekt one.

 

I have zero complaints with Rustoleum I just thought I'd try a new color palette out. Idk though I was budgeting myself at $500 and not 1k+ which seems to be were all the deals are at. Thanks though guys

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I'm not a high roller, so I usually splurge on a few dozen cans of 94 or Molotow a couple times a year and that usually lasts me for a while since I'm stingy with it. I buy specific stuff that I know will work with a wide variety of Rusto fills, and Molotow Aubergine works with pretty much anything. It's not quite black, sort of a purple/red/brown and a bit on the warmer side. It looks great with chrome. 94 Cherokee Red is somewhat similar, and seems to outline over chrome better without eating into it. Molotow Deep Black has a bit of a cool tone to it, but doesn't cover that great on bare masonry and tends to eat into silver.

 

A sekt adapter with a NY fat or Rusto fat is what you want for filling. If you have smaller areas like bubbles or whatnot, pop a NY thin on there and it won't coat so heavy. It would take forever to fill in with that stock tip that comes on Rusto, in my opinion. Light coats are key. Come back and double it up and you won't wind up with half the can dripping off the car onto the ground. If possible, work on and rotate between 2-3 panels at a time to allow everything to dry somewhat. I'll take a smoke/beer break and check things out after I get my fills done, and things are usually dry enough to start outlining by the time I'm through with that.

 

Rusto is terrific paint, but the valve system has always left a lot to be desired. I think you'll enjoy a can of 94 if you're used to Rusto. It's amazing with one of those yellow universals or a NY fat. The pigment content is very high, so be prepared to clog up a couple thin caps. For trains, I like shaving down the stem of a NY thin for 94. It's bold and clean, then clogs a bit to offer some small details when you're working on finishing touches. 94 is excellent paint. I did a school bus commission for a ski service in Denver using only 94, and it looks good as new 5 years later trucking up and down slushy Rocky Mountain roads all winter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We have both here, expensive shit at AUD$12 per can all the way down to really shitty stuff that can go for AUD$2.50 a can.

 

I don't rack and am saving for real estate so I'm mostly constrained to the cheap shitty stuff but it's kind of fun and super-nostalgic. I've got a bit more space where i live now and I'm going to try and mix some cheap and higher quality paint soon. We'll see how that goes.

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No solid colors in the line up? Sounds like what Krylon has become, or possibly even Valspar. It is weird to imagine here in the states being able to buy a can of some speciality paint for less than a can of Rustoleum. I suppose even if that was the case i would probably still get the Rustoleum anyways. Didn't someone mention that some stores in Australia were starting to carry Rusto?

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No solid colors in the line up? Sounds like what Krylon has become, or possibly even Valspar. It is weird to imagine here in the states being able to buy a can of some speciality paint for less than a can of Rustoleum. I suppose even if that was the case i would probably still get the Rustoleum anyways. Didn't someone mention that some stores in Australia were starting to carry Rusto?

 

Definitely great colours in the range - there's a brand called Aussie Export sold at auto shops and Chinese discount shops that has a huge range and some really nice colours like terracotta, Indian red, sky blue, emerald, etc. Some of these even have decent coverage but most are watery, inconsistent and generally shitty.

 

The other expensive lines are about $12, more than most artist paints and I don't know what their quality is like given that I don't rack and have a wife to answer to. We now have Rusto sold here, think it's like $11 or something. Might treat myself to a few cans for Christmas.

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Yep, AUD$11 for Rusto 2X 340grams (just under USD$10). Ironlak is 312 grams so this would essentially be superior paint. Ironlak goes for between AUD$7-9.

 

The local expensive hardware paint, which is 310 grams cost AUD$8. It also seems that they are doing away with their cheap, shitty paint. Pretty sure that it's 250 grams and it cost around AUD$3.25. There was very little of it there and didn't look like they'd be restocking.

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