Price points on high-end denim?!

[swif1]

@glorydaysyeah, you're going to have to wear them often, there's no doubt about that haha. With it being 100% cotton at that weight, it'll feel like the jeans are perma-starched against your skin lmao. 

 

Definitely agree on the manufacturing and ethics point. I cannot imagine the volume of water and petroleum used during the manufacturing process--especially when synthetic indigo dye is likely used. You can also add Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam to that list. Hell, maybe even Turkey.

 

On a random note, I remember when Target released "selvedge" denim. It turned out to be only a few inches from the hem for that cuff flex hahaha

 

I prefer avoiding buying from fast fashion brands although I do have a several items from Uniqlo. Then again, the same could be said for designer brands, which I'm a victim of. Just got some washed denim that's 100% cotton I didn't expect to fit in the waist yet during my continued weight loss quest; just need to shed some more fat in my thunder thighs. Bloody hell, I forgot how unforgiving 100% cotton is.

 

When I was in the Allen Edmonds boutique last fall, they look to be carrying selvedge. SA said they worked with the founder of Lucky Brand Jeans: https://www.allenedmonds.com/explore/collaborations/civilianaire/

Jeans are made here although not sure where they source the denim. I figured Cone Mills but it looks like they closed their doors in 2018 with Wrangler buying x amount of their remaining stock to do limited releases.

 

Edit: lmao what a coincidence you brought up Cone Mills in the last post. I like the vertical selvedge lining on the coin pocket. Definitely a nice break from the usual and loving the cut.

Edited September 9, 2020 by swif1

[swif1]

Sent jeans to get hemmed with a chainstitch, but USPS couldn't locate a way to the place. Don't remember if I put a return address on it either. Hopefully it arrives. Now I'm on the fence if I want to try and find a way to ship it back and sell it to get a different pair. Fuck ADHD.

[mr.yuck]

@glorydaysI swear every last one of these companies is out of my size in my cut. The search goes on.

[glorydays]

2 hours ago, swif1 said:

@glorydaysyeah, you're going to have to wear them often, there's no doubt about that haha. With it being 100% cotton at that weight, it'll feel like the jeans are perma-starched against your skin lmao. 

 

Definitely agree on the manufacturing and ethics point. I cannot imagine the volume of water and petroleum used during the manufacturing process--especially when synthetic indigo dye is likely used. You can also add Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam to that list. Hell, maybe even Turkey.

 

On a random note, I remember when Target released "selvedge" denim. It turned out to be only a few inches from the hem for that cuff flex hahaha

 

I prefer avoiding buying from fast fashion brands although I do have a several items from Uniqlo. Then again, the same could be said for designer brands, which I'm a victim of. Just got some washed denim that's 100% cotton I didn't expect to fit in the waist yet during my continued weight loss quest; just need to shed some more fat in my thunder thighs. Bloody hell, I forgot how unforgiving 100% cotton is.

 

When I was in the Allen Edmonds boutique last fall, they look to be carrying selvedge. SA said they worked with the founder of Lucky Brand Jeans: https://www.allenedmonds.com/explore/collaborations/civilianaire/

Jeans are made here although not sure where they source the denim. I figured Cone Mills but it looks like they closed their doors in 2018 with Wrangler buying x amount of their remaining stock to do limited releases.

 

Edit: lmao what a coincidence you brought up Cone Mills in the last post. I like the vertical selvedge lining on the coin pocket. Definitely a nice break from the usual and loving the cut.

the fact that wrangler grabbed the cone mills stock makes me so fucking angry

 

And i agree, i prefer selvedge denim made either in the US or Japan....at least then there's some quality control through the manufacturing.

 

the allen edmonds selvedge looks mad interesting...their cuts are high as fuck waisted

[glorydays]

4 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

@glorydaysI swear every last one of these companies is out of my size in my cut. The search goes on.

selvedge denim is hard to source...usually the products that any company comes out with for a certain cut are very limited

 

there's very little american mills today and japan is the last of the mohicans when it comes to selvedge mills

 

there are two types of denim: redcast and green cast

 

redcast is cheaper to make because it isnt double dipping the cotton

 

green cast denim is denim made from cotton that has been dipped in green dye then dipped in indigo 

 

it's all for fades

 

redcast

 

green cast

[glorydays]

got'eeeeem

 

yes i have short legs...yes I'm 5'7" 

 

but fuck it....i got cone mill denim jeans in 12oz red line selvedge

 

[mr.yuck]

Youre like a god damn denim wiki answering all the questions I dont even know to ask. Keep dropping game while I try to find something that fits this silly body.

[glorydays]

2 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

Youre like a god damn denim wiki answering all the questions I dont even know to ask. Keep dropping game while I try to find something that fits this silly body.

i don't know why but i'm itching for selvedge denim, i'm copping jordans again, and i actually care about how i look again LMAO

 

its 2004 all over

[glorydays]

1 hour ago, swif1 said:

Sent jeans to get hemmed with a chainstitch, but USPS couldn't locate a way to the place. Don't remember if I put a return address on it either. Hopefully it arrives. Now I'm on the fence if I want to try and find a way to ship it back and sell it to get a different pair. Fuck ADHD.

is the dude hemming your pants using a union special machine?

[glorydays]

travis scott x mcdonald's raw denim jean

 

[swif1]

1 hour ago, glorydays said:

is the dude hemming your pants using a union special machine?

Yah, sent it to Denim Surgeon in NJ instead of their NY location this time around. Used to have Railcar do my work but having been using Denim Surgeon as it's a little "closer" as of late.

 

1 hour ago, glorydays said:

the fact that wrangler grabbed the cone mills stock makes me so fucking angry

 

And i agree, i prefer selvedge denim made either in the US or Japan....at least then there's some quality control through the manufacturing.

 

the allen edmonds selvedge looks mad interesting...their cuts are high as fuck waisted

Why mad at Wrangler? Because huge corporation? Genuine question. I def prefer US or Japan myself for raws and agree with the QC. And yeah, boi. High waist is the worst waist haha. I reckon we have the same frame but we're definitely same height and inseam. Awesome pickup tho. You should have a pair of raws at different stages of fade for every occasion!

 

I have a pair with 29" inseam for "tasteful" staxxx otherwise it's 28"-27" depending on the cut. I just scored a pair denim and khakis with a 33" inseam so it's staxxx galore. I'll probably leave them as is to attract more prospective buyers when I decide to resell.

 

I wonder if my MIJ DH's are greencast. I thought I was going insane as they have a green tint in certain light, but I could very well be insane. It seems like it's more common than redcast based on Google image search unless large manufacturers use it with synthetic indigo. Thanks for the knowledge; ain't know about the 'cast until now.

[glorydays]

5 minutes ago, swif1 said:

Yah, sent it to Denim Surgeon in NJ instead of their NY location this time around. Used to have Railcar do my work but having been using Denim Surgeon as it's a little "closer" as of late.

 

Why mad at Wrangler? Because huge corporation? Genuine question. I def prefer US or Japan myself for raws and agree with the QC. And yeah, boi. High waist is the worst waist haha. I reckon we have the same frame but we're definitely same height and inseam. Awesome pickup tho. You should have a pair of raws at different stages of fade for every occasion!

 

I have a pair with 29" inseam for "tasteful" staxxx otherwise it's 28"-27" depending on the cut. I just scored a pair denim and khakis with a 33" inseam so it's staxxx galore. I'll probably leave them as is to attract more prospective buyers when I decide to resell.

 

I wonder if my MIJ DH's are greencast. I thought I was going insane as they have a green tint in certain light, but I could very well be insane. It seems like it's more common than redcast based on Google image search unless large manufacturers use it with synthetic indigo. Thanks for the knowledge; ain't know about the 'cast until now.

I feel like wrangler hasn't made quality denim in decades. And the high waist is a wtf for me, so its a hard pass on the allen edmonds.

And you're right about the different pairs for different occassions. I'm wearing my unbranded jeans for everything and i need another pair for non-work situations.

 

I'm a staxxxxxxxxx person myself...i find that having a long inseam is alright but i hate when i see dudes roll their hems 25 times and it looks like donuts around their ankles. I get a shorter inseam to get light staxx and to look a little sharper for special situations. I'd rather not resell my jeans, i like keeping them for bragging rights.

 

if your DH's were over 250 in price and they have a green tint, bet money they're green cast dyed. I myself prefer green cast but fucking hell the price is insane.

 

most plant dyed japanese denim brands are green cast for a reason. 

plant indigo dyed cotton doesn't last long...to keep the dye longer, they will double dip in green dye first.

[swif1]

1 hour ago, glorydays said:

I feel like wrangler hasn't made quality denim in decades. And the high waist is a wtf for me, so its a hard pass on the allen edmonds.

And you're right about the different pairs for different occassions. I'm wearing my unbranded jeans for everything and i need another pair for non-work situations.

Fair enough. Bro, don't get me started of people with the cinch the back. That is way too much for me.

 

Quote

I'm a staxxxxxxxxx person myself...i find that having a long inseam is alright but i hate when i see dudes roll their hems 25 times and it looks like donuts around their ankles. I get a shorter inseam to get light staxx and to look a little sharper for special situations. I'd rather not resell my jeans, i like keeping them for bragging rights.

Lolllllll Oh for sure, I'm def not selling my raws ever either. These pre-distressed jawns and khakis are more so on the collector's side being that it's during the Hedi-era at SLP.

 

Quote

your DH's were over 250 in price and they have a green tint, bet money they're green cast dyed. I myself prefer green cast but fucking hell the price is insane.

 

most plant dyed japanese denim brands are green cast for a reason. 

plant indigo dyed cotton doesn't last long...to keep the dye longer, they will double dip in green dye first.

That makes a lot of sense. Clockwise from the bottom: The DH I was talking about; MIJ Selvedge DH; MIJ Selvedge SLP. You keep the excess fabric like me? I love comparing it to the jeans' current state.

What's your waist size, @mr.yuck?

Edited September 10, 2020 by swif1

[glorydays]

5 minutes ago, swif1 said:

Fair enough. Bro, don't get me started of people with the cinch the back. That is way too much for me.

 

Lolllllll Oh for sure, I'm def not selling my raws ever either. These pre-distressed jawns and khakis are more so on the collector's side being that it's during the Hedi-era at SLP.

 

That makes a lot of sense. Clockwise from the bottom: The DH I was talking about; MIJ Selvedge DH; MIJ Selvedge SLP. You keep the excess fabric like me? I love comparing it to the jeans' current state.

What's your waist size, @mr.yuck?

hell yea bro, i keep the scraps. that denim is worth its weight in gold. some mills pay for those to see if they can recreate that stitch

[glorydays]

@swif1do you size down or go tts??

[mr.yuck]

@swif1I buy everything in 36.  I noticed a lot of this stuff comes in odd sizes too. I think when I truely stop climbing on roofs and suiciding my way through with a chainsaw (fingers crossed a few more months) I might build a wardrobe that actually fits me in the summer and one that fits me in the winter.

[swif1]

25 minutes ago, glorydays said:

@swif1do you size down or go tts??

I've had to size down when jeans from a different season ballooned in size otherwise TTS or "both" for sometimes DH and especially SLP. For actual denim brands, I think I get TTS. However, it really depends on the cut.

 

19 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

@swif1I buy everything in 36.  I noticed a lot of this stuff comes in odd sizes too. I think when I truely stop climbing on roofs and suiciding my way through with a chainsaw (fingers crossed a few more months) I might build a wardrobe that actually fits me in the summer and one that fits me in the winter.

Ok, so waist is probably a true 38"-39". I was going to check out 3x1 since they do custom, but website is down.

[glorydays]

4 hours ago, swif1 said:

I've had to size down when jeans from a different season ballooned in size otherwise TTS or "both" for sometimes DH and especially SLP. For actual denim brands, I think I get TTS. However, it really depends on the cut.

word...i size down on every pair cuz it stretches out so much no homo

[mr.yuck]

@swif1I have a tailors tape here. I dont know why Ive never taken my own measurements before.

[swif1]

@mr.yuckHaha no worries. You should measure your favorite pants post-wash when it's shrank. May be overkill, but I suggest also measuring the back rise.

https://www.blueowl.us/pages/measuring-guide

 

@glorydaysHow much stretch you getting gd haha. Tbh it's been a while since I last broke in a pair of 100% cotton raws, but iirc I probably sized down one since the brands I owned didn't use vanity sizing. 'Could be wrong tho. shrug

 

Looks like Railcar got ahold of some Cone Mills denim. Mr. Yuck, you might be able to find a pair here in your size 🙂

 

https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms/products/spikes-x001

 

https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms

 

 

[glorydays]

39 minutes ago, swif1 said:

@mr.yuckHaha no worries. You should measure your favorite pants post-wash when it's shrank. May be overkill, but I suggest also measuring the back rise.

https://www.blueowl.us/pages/measuring-guide

 

@glorydaysHow much stretch you getting gd haha. Tbh it's been a while since I last broke in a pair of 100% cotton raws, but iirc I probably sized down one since the brands I owned didn't use vanity sizing. 'Could be wrong tho. shrug

 

Looks like Railcar got ahold of some Cone Mills denim. Mr. Yuck, you might be able to find a pair here in your size 🙂

 

https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms/products/spikes-x001

 

https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms

 

 

i always do an initial wash of every pair of raw denim i cop whether they sanforized or not

 

i do an initial wash because i think raw denim coming off a manufacture line is "dirty" and i want to wash off the chemicals that might hurt my skin

 

so mine shrink even before i put them on

i was joking before, i size up 1 size then initial wash them to my true size

[swif1]

20 minutes ago, glorydays said:

i always do an initial wash of every pair of raw denim i cop whether they sanforized or not

Quote

i always do an initial wash

Quote

initial wash

You mean soak, right? pls tell me soak.. I like to keep multiple measurements pre-, post-soak, after/during wear when stretched as I find that stuff cool heehee

[glorydays]

14 minutes ago, swif1 said:

You mean soak, right? pls tell me soak.. I like to keep multiple measurements pre-, post-soak, after/during wear when stretched as I find that stuff cool heehee

yuss....sorry i meant soak

 

i never really wash my denim

[glorydays]

@swif1

@CLICKCLACKONER

@mr.yuck

 

ok so the supreme joints finally came in

I need to wear them first before soaking

 

the waist is gonna be tiiiiight

the denim is stiff as fuck

it is a heavy weight fucking denim

 

Edited September 11, 2020 by glorydays

[swif1]

@glorydayswhy no pre-soak? Don't think they'll shrink anymore although sanforized? Kinda regret selling mine after seeing your pics.

 

Tempted to get a pair of 3Sixteen Shadows as my final pair of raws. 🤧

[glorydays]

1 minute ago, swif1 said:

@glorydayswhy no pre-soak? Don't think they'll shrink anymore although sanforized? Kinda regret selling mine after seeing your pics.

 

Tempted to get a pair of 3Sixteen Shadows as my final pair of raws. 🤧

you might be right...the waist wasn't as tight as i thought it would be 

 

I'll soak them right after this...they are sanforized, so shrinkage should be minimal

 

broooo...i am dying to get my hands on a pair of 3sixteens

[glorydays]

Sooooak

@swif1

@CLICKCLACKONER

@mr.yuck

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by glorydays

[swif1]

9 minutes ago, glorydays said:

you might be right...the waist wasn't as tight as i thought it would be 

 

I'll soak them right after this...they are sanforized, so shrinkage should be minimal

 

broooo...i am dying to get my hands on a pair of 3sixteens

Yeah, shrink will def be minimal. Even so, it'll stretch back to how they fit you pre-soak. Wore my oldest pair of raws to dinner at my parents. Got sweaty af so time to soak. forgot about them for an hour or two and dumped the dirty water and now soaking in clean water

[glorydays]

1 hour ago, swif1 said:

Yeah, shrink will def be minimal. Even so, it'll stretch back to how they fit you pre-soak. Wore my oldest pair of raws to dinner at my parents. Got sweaty af so time to soak. forgot about them for an hour or two and dumped the dirty water and now soaking in clean water

the water mustve been gross as fuck

[swif1]

@glorydayshahaha nahh, i can't stand when it gets to that point, but it was yellow. I'm surprised there's still dye left to bleed on this pair ha