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Guest HESHIANDET

bicicletas

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Rubbish... can't do the Wednesday night races. My race doesn't start till 8ish... I'm usually in bed by 8ish. The unfortunate circumstance of having a job that requires me to be there mega-early. I heard a few stories about the slashed tires... sucks because tubulars are not cheap to replace.

 

Racing tomorrow and Sunday. Should be fun. I wonder with the few dry days leading up to Sunday if PIR will still be a shit-show. Love that race when it's muddy...

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So yesterday I felt a strange shift in my frame while riding home. I stopped and realized that the the seat tube has fully separated from where it joins the bottom of the frame.

bikec.jpg

Is this fixable? Is it worth it (bikes pretty beat)? How dangerous has this bike become? It felt fine the rest of the ride home beside me being able to shift that part of the frame with my legs a bit left and right. Hesitant to take it down hills or mash with it.

 

Thoughts?

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when dealing with a diamond frame every single weld is crucial.

this could go wrong in a hundred different ways, i wouldn't ride that thing, you're just setting yourself up for some very painful failure.

 

aluminum frame i assume?

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As far as I know it is a steel frame from the late 70's - early 80's. It is heavy and has taken some serious abuse. But it is a frame that is way to small for me so the extra weight could be an issue. I have actually been slightly spooked the past couple of months that it will fall apart mid hill and have been riding this bike 4+ years.....so

 

yes, Kobes...possibly a RIP Nishiki moment...?

 

:(

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hot rig, but the roadie in me wants to see that stem flipped and slammed.

 

i flipped it after putting a few more miles on.

she handles like a dream, so satisfied with the build, can't wait to beat the shit out of her next week on some trails.

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Steel and Ti frames are more likely to break at the welds. Especially older frames that weren't tempered properly like modern steel and ti. THe more use those old tubes get the less force required to bend the tubes and puts more force on the welds.

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Ugh, the lack of knowledge on this page...

 

First off, you don't weld lugged steel, you braze it.

 

Secondly, I can tell you just by looking at the bottom bracket juncture that your bike was a low-end mass produced frame from the 70's. Consider it as good as totaled, because the cost of repair and repaint is going to vastly exceed the market value of a similar steel frame from the same era that actually fits you. Unless you have some kind of sentiment attached to what's essentially a 40 year old department store bike, count your losses and move on.

 

The good news is, unless you're riding dirt jumps and DH, the bike is likely to just suffer a slow death as opposed to catastrophically failing on you. I wouldn't necessarily recommend riding it indefinitely, but it's probably not going to explode on you mid commute.

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Slipped on wet leaves this morning, went down hard. On my head. I wasn't wearing a helmet, but after a 6 hour E.R. visit all I ended up with is a concussion and a severely sprained wrist. Lesson learned, helmet shopping Monday, no more cool guy bike riding without one for me, shit was not cool at all.

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What site do you guys buy parts etc from? I'm so used to having a qbp hook up that I don't even know where to look now that I don't have it

 

Also, 26 inch winter tires to use on days that I don't need steel studded mountain bike type tires - Suggestions?

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i buy from ebikestop.com or jensonusa.com

 

or ebay.

 

ebikestop has been awesome though over the last month with me with communications about backorders and hook ups. good company run by good people, and their prices are awesome, and they price match quickly.

 

are you looking for a tire that will work in snow but isn't an ice tire specifically? my experience with snow riding has been to ride wider--at least 2.3-- and to have good knobbies centered and side but good space between to shed.

 

here is a good article/review

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/winter-mountain-bike-tyres-picks-of-the-best-12784/

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Aside from me using the word weld instead of referring to the lugs, I thought my info was accurate.

 

Anywho, @rubbish's comment to fist, I don't care so much about the slam and the flip, but I do want to see that 29er with mtb drops. Obviously you have to change out the shifters so i doubt it's worth it but drops on the dirt are awesome.

 

a052fa54.jpg

 

Either way I'm super jealous. That thing looks awesome. I think my plan of one cross bike for everything has officially ran its course. If I could have a 29er and a nice road bike I totally would. My reason is simply: riding a cross bike on the road to the dirt when you're used to the speed of a road bike sucks. If it's less than 10 miles to the trails its no big deal, but if it's 20-30+ then it kind of sucks. You start feeling bad for the knobby tires. Plus your drivetrain's a bit dirty and yadda yadda. Basically either have to be ignorant or really strong.

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Ugh, the lack of knowledge on this page...

 

First off, you don't weld lugged steel, you braze it.

 

Secondly, I can tell you just by looking at the bottom bracket juncture that your bike was a low-end mass produced frame from the 70's. Consider it as good as totaled, because the cost of repair and repaint is going to vastly exceed the market value of a similar steel frame from the same era that actually fits you. Unless you have some kind of sentiment attached to what's essentially a 40 year old department store bike, count your losses and move on.

 

The good news is, unless you're riding dirt jumps and DH, the bike is likely to just suffer a slow death as opposed to catastrophically failing on you. I wouldn't necessarily recommend riding it indefinitely, but it's probably not going to explode on you mid commute.

 

 

Yeah its a lugged frame, but there is no reason you couldnt weld the crack and have a solid frame again.

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did a little ride on my old cannondale m800 2day...my first non-fixed ride since about 4 years? funny but i stick 2 fixed and road

6250475402_a8a3a56666_z.jpg

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First, bewbs for your effort.

tumblr_lqexlweBxe1qgquvwo1_r1_500.jpg

Now.

The back wheel on my bike got ran over few days ago and I need a new wheel. Any reccomendation for weather in Washington? fist666 understands the weather in this corner of the US, it's just mad rain and ice, sometime. What type or brand you would recommend? Where to get? Tubeless wheel?

 

Bonus love for all.

tumblr_lbqm9eRomD1qcbmzjo1_500.jpg

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what size what style bike?

let us know what you have and i'm sure either myself or the portland heads can find you something just right.

 

whichever style i'm probably going to recommend ebay or ebikestop for budget, or for local old town bicycle down by ruston. if you need basic mechanical help i can help you out too.

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Thanks for all of the comments/advice regarding the cracked frame. Rode it to work today and it feels sketch, time to find a new bike.

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