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Steel and Ti frames are more likely to break at the welds. Especially older frames that weren't tempered properly like modern steel and ti. THe more use those old tubes get the less force required to bend the tubes and puts more force on the welds.

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Ugh, the lack of knowledge on this page...

 

First off, you don't weld lugged steel, you braze it.

 

Secondly, I can tell you just by looking at the bottom bracket juncture that your bike was a low-end mass produced frame from the 70's. Consider it as good as totaled, because the cost of repair and repaint is going to vastly exceed the market value of a similar steel frame from the same era that actually fits you. Unless you have some kind of sentiment attached to what's essentially a 40 year old department store bike, count your losses and move on.

 

The good news is, unless you're riding dirt jumps and DH, the bike is likely to just suffer a slow death as opposed to catastrophically failing on you. I wouldn't necessarily recommend riding it indefinitely, but it's probably not going to explode on you mid commute.

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Slipped on wet leaves this morning, went down hard. On my head. I wasn't wearing a helmet, but after a 6 hour E.R. visit all I ended up with is a concussion and a severely sprained wrist. Lesson learned, helmet shopping Monday, no more cool guy bike riding without one for me, shit was not cool at all.

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What site do you guys buy parts etc from? I'm so used to having a qbp hook up that I don't even know where to look now that I don't have it

 

Also, 26 inch winter tires to use on days that I don't need steel studded mountain bike type tires - Suggestions?

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i buy from ebikestop.com or jensonusa.com

 

or ebay.

 

ebikestop has been awesome though over the last month with me with communications about backorders and hook ups. good company run by good people, and their prices are awesome, and they price match quickly.

 

are you looking for a tire that will work in snow but isn't an ice tire specifically? my experience with snow riding has been to ride wider--at least 2.3-- and to have good knobbies centered and side but good space between to shed.

 

here is a good article/review

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/winter-mountain-bike-tyres-picks-of-the-best-12784/

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Aside from me using the word weld instead of referring to the lugs, I thought my info was accurate.

 

Anywho, @rubbish's comment to fist, I don't care so much about the slam and the flip, but I do want to see that 29er with mtb drops. Obviously you have to change out the shifters so i doubt it's worth it but drops on the dirt are awesome.

 

a052fa54.jpg

 

Either way I'm super jealous. That thing looks awesome. I think my plan of one cross bike for everything has officially ran its course. If I could have a 29er and a nice road bike I totally would. My reason is simply: riding a cross bike on the road to the dirt when you're used to the speed of a road bike sucks. If it's less than 10 miles to the trails its no big deal, but if it's 20-30+ then it kind of sucks. You start feeling bad for the knobby tires. Plus your drivetrain's a bit dirty and yadda yadda. Basically either have to be ignorant or really strong.

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Ugh, the lack of knowledge on this page...

 

First off, you don't weld lugged steel, you braze it.

 

Secondly, I can tell you just by looking at the bottom bracket juncture that your bike was a low-end mass produced frame from the 70's. Consider it as good as totaled, because the cost of repair and repaint is going to vastly exceed the market value of a similar steel frame from the same era that actually fits you. Unless you have some kind of sentiment attached to what's essentially a 40 year old department store bike, count your losses and move on.

 

The good news is, unless you're riding dirt jumps and DH, the bike is likely to just suffer a slow death as opposed to catastrophically failing on you. I wouldn't necessarily recommend riding it indefinitely, but it's probably not going to explode on you mid commute.

 

 

Yeah its a lugged frame, but there is no reason you couldnt weld the crack and have a solid frame again.

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First, bewbs for your effort.

tumblr_lqexlweBxe1qgquvwo1_r1_500.jpg

Now.

The back wheel on my bike got ran over few days ago and I need a new wheel. Any reccomendation for weather in Washington? fist666 understands the weather in this corner of the US, it's just mad rain and ice, sometime. What type or brand you would recommend? Where to get? Tubeless wheel?

 

Bonus love for all.

tumblr_lbqm9eRomD1qcbmzjo1_500.jpg

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In other news, thinking about buying one of these nashbar blowout gt gtr frames. Any reason not to get one for $75?

 

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_530648_-1_10000__

 

Edit: Appparently these have real weird head and seat tube diameters. Can anyone recommend a decent aluminum frame for cheap? Intended uses are going fast and cat 6 racing. I love the way my "track" bike handles. Here is the geo chart for that.

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joker how'd your race go?

 

i got 2nd place out of a B field just shy of 100 people!

 

still hungry victory before upgrading to A's though.

 

I saw you at the front the whole race. When you started lapping riders I thought for sure you'd lose the other guy in the mix. 2nd is nothing to be shy about... awesome job!! You'll get that first place, soon. I bet it'll come this Sunday. Same kind of course as PIR. Just a raw power course. Weather should hold out for most of the week, and hopefully the weekend, to make the course fast.

 

My race was pretty good. I was last called, so literally, I was two people form the back of the race upon starting. I stayed upright for the majority of the race, with the exception of rolling my rear tubular on one of the 180° turns, right by the bleacher. Just took it too fast, too tight. Was able to force it back on and finish, though. We had something, like, 75 guys in our field and I finished 43rd. So starting from the back and working my way up was fun. I did get to a point where I just couldn't catch the guys in front of me. It seemed like every time I turned on the heat, so did they. They just stayed 50 yards in front of me for the last two laps. So painful. I'm learning the A's are no joke... even in the masters.

 

Saturday, the Ninkassi race, was awesome. Amazing course. Beautiful scenery. The course was up and down for an hour. My field was super small, maybe 20 guys. With a long uphill slog, for the start, I was at the back by the time we took the first turn. Passed a lot of guys throughout the day, though. With two laps to go I took the gravel turn way too hot and my front wheel slid out. The gravel chewed up my knee and elbow, really good. I pushed the pain aside and finished the race. First Aid was digging gravel out of my elbow, later. Yep, it hurt. Still had fun, though.

 

Also broke my wrist on Saturday, but didn't find out till today. My season is probably over...

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SHIT. Sounds like my broken hand story - didn't find out for 5 days later. You raced on a fucking broken wrist eh? Gnarly! Get well soon - you may have a chance to snag some late season racing if it heals up in time.

 

Ninkrossi was cool, although "flat" and "smooth" apparently was code word for "not flat" and "not smooth". I knew my bike was in trouble because the shift cable was nearly blown, but salvaged it via last minute tune-ups... still, by the 2nd lap my shifting was totally fucked and I decided to cut losses, save some for PIR (a good decision evidently) and call it a day, having already had my entry fee waived via volunteering. Course was cool but I HATED that

fucking N:

6248349775_043f3b7fed_z.jpg

(12oz. dudes- this photo is deceptive: it's taken atop a hill and kind of obscures the steepness that that N is built on.)

 

Sounds like you have the same last number as me - 1, hence the back row call up. If I didn't have callup points for PIR I probably would have just spent the day heckling FPDX riders. But you know what last row back week means: first row this week at Hillsboro. So I'll probably just take my upgrade and do my first A's race with a start line advantage, and find out what it's like riding in the same row as Molly Cameron and the other hot shots.

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what size what style bike?

let us know what you have and i'm sure either myself or the portland heads can find you something just right.

 

whichever style i'm probably going to recommend ebay or ebikestop for budget, or for local old town bicycle down by ruston. if you need basic mechanical help i can help you out too.

 

I've been to old town, some nice people there. Regard to the size, 700 x 25c is noted on the side of the tire and the diameter measurement of the rim is 24, probably not exact but I done what I can. I really don't know the best way to determined the wheel size.

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