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Guest HESHIANDET

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31.5" is the distance from ground level and the top tube. You want your junk to be clear (an inch or two) of the top tube when you stand over it.

Measure yourself || and see how it might fit.

 

21.5" could be the top tube length or the seat tube length.

 

That height will probably work. But it's difficult to tell without trying it first.

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that is going to suck balls if you live somewhere hilly or with hills ever, but would be ideal for kansas or the like.

 

No hills for me..im from south florida.

 

 

rainy season now though ... kinda crappy when commuting to work and stuff

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No hills for me..im from south florida.

 

 

rainy season now though ... kinda crappy when commuting to work and stuff

 

ah, yeah that looks about right then.

i've done a few mtb rides in north florida that were awesome. not a ton of elevation change obviously, but good fun fast single track.

 

the humidity fucking killed me though.

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True apologize for not specifying...Im a SS/Fixed gear rider...but not for tricks or show I actually use it for sport. No carbon frames though please. (my pockets would thank that). I dig Cinelli, bianchi, velo, fuji, leader, etc...but trying to find something reasonable..about 500 or under for the frame. Even if any of you are selling a frame between 54 and 58..let a fellow rider know. The thicker the frame the better in my eyes as I feel its not as stiff as a ride as the smaller tubed frames.

Appreciate any non typical 12 oz response.

:cool:

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/bik/2467480228.html

 

dude our craigslist has a lot of gems if you search around

 

ebay is great too, as long as you can catch an auction that isn't overcrowded with bidders.

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My birthdays coming up in August so Im looking for some cycling shoes. Cleats? I dont know. Going clipless so I need those. Gonna be using a set of crank brothers pedals that my girlfriends dad is giving me. Is the part that clips in universal? What to look for? Can I walk around in them? Someone point me in the right direction.

 

Edit: Price cap around $80. Going on an ssfg if that helps.

Another Edit: My first reaction is to look at the top of my price bracket which leads me to these. I like the heel tabs and cArBoN. Deffinitly still open to hear opinions though

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You're going to want to get mountain bike shoes that are SPD compatible if you're using Crank Brother's pedals, but it really depends on what kind of riding you're doing. If you're planning on being off your bike for any amount of time walking, go with mtb shoes. I have a pair of both, and I don't like to even wear my road shoes when I'm just riding. Living in a city where you are constantly stopping at lights and for traffic just doesn't feel safe to me on traditional road shoes, although if you're riding in rural areas and will be clipped in most of the time, I don't see why not. There are also sneakerish shoes with mounts for cleats available if you don't like the look of cleated mtb shoes, I would imagine that if you're spending a fair amount of time off you're bike they'd come in handy, but I carry a pair of sneakers with if I'm planning on being on my feet for long periods.

 

Hope that helps.

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So are the clips on the bottom of the shoes that go into the pedals universal? I dont mind buying pedals, he just has those lying around and said i could use them to get me going. Are road shoes just really really stiff as opposed to MTB shoes having more flex?

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the cleats are not universal. i believe most crank bros are SPD (the style of cleat)

 

 

crank bros makes some really good pedals and some crap too, but i'd say just use those free ones to learn on and then upgrade once you've got clipless riding down.

 

thats the basic difference between road and DH style shoes, xc riders ride stiff shoes as well.

 

if your priority is wearing the shoes and not looking silly, keep in mind everybody is going to be looking at you cause your tap shoes are noisy as fuck.

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The difference between mountain bike shoes and road shoes is that with road shoes you're walking directly on the cleat, which is noisy, bad for the cleat and chances are, if you're like me, you'll roll your ankle. Think shoes with a stiff bottom that have a inch of metal sticking out from under your foot. Mtb shoes have lugs around the cleat so you have more support on your feet.

 

Skip the carbon fiber doo-dads, unless your racing, you don't need it. Just get a pair of mtb shoes and some SPD cleats and you're in business, trust me, if you do a lot of riding, you'll love it.

 

Like fist said, it's like wearing tap dancing shoes, think soccer cleats. So yeah, they're loud, usually if I'm headed somewhere indoors or don't want to look/feel like a dick rocking cleated shoes, I'll throw a pair of sneakers in my bag.

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