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bicicletas


Guest HESHIANDET

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yeah acer - the garmin's mapping visuals aren't too spot on... but you get the idea.

 

 

haha i figured. how long was the course and how many laps? i think im gonna race in the blueberry festival criterium next year.

 

 

also rubbish, whats this aphex, center, aphex, center business?

 

and im not TOO worried about black ice because i ride flats on my commuter and even if the ground is nothing but ice i can still get a foot out for some stability. i just wish it would snow instead of ice.

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Acer - center-apex-center is usually used for criterium cornering (if you're leading the group, this is the best line to take; cat 5 crits will often go inside-apex-outside or other shitty lines and either waste a bunch of their speed in the corners, create sketchy conditions for a crash to arise, or both): http://trackracer.blogspot.com/2007/06/criterium-cornering.html

 

But in terms of doing a winding descent on the road, the same principles apply. You basically take full advantage of the lane and use the right edge of concrete and center dividing line as your apex's, and drift in and out of the center to keep the bike at the straightest upright angle while taking the fastest line to avoid or (minimize) having to use the brakes.

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id love to know the story behind that rider, the track and that bike (looks homebuilt)

 

im assuming thats how track racing got started, dirt tracks.

 

 

 

also, what do i need to upgrade next on my road bike? i need something to save my money towards or else il blow it on stupid stuff. already have a good saddle, already ride clipless, already have a good computer with cadence. and it has to be something i can buy and still have a functioning bike. example, not an entire group as i doubt il be making THAT much money and i cant really buy one part at a time from a group. although i guess i could if its compatible with my current group.

 

so yea, next upgrade. you decide.

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Acer - handlebars, stem, seatpost. If you got a jank seatpost or stem, nows the time to upgrade to some Thomson or Deda. Likewise, if you can't get comfortable in the drops, it'd be a good time to check different bends and figure out a good fit.

 

why so much emphasis on the stem? cant any lack in rise or drop in the stem be compensated for with rise or drop in height of the seatpost?

but i do know for a fact im going to take a spacer or 2 off, the entire cockpits a tad too high for my tastes. i feel too much like im just standing up straight when i stand and mash the pedals. doesnt feel right, especially not when standing in the hoods.

are there any pedals out there for road with adjustable float?

 

and the way im going i might as well buy a whole new build haha

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pictures. pictures. pictures.

 

4245908331_7256b618be_b.jpg

 

a handful of my bikes.

again sorry for the fuzz.

 

acer, adjusting seatpost height isnt really any way to compensate for stem rise.

and before you go hacking away at your steerer, put a couple spacers on top to test.

maybe i read it wrong.

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ok. i think im going to have to save up 500, write "new fork" "new cockpit" "new wheelset" "new pedal/shoes" and whatever else i think of on pices of paper and draw one from a hat.

 

and also, i think the mountain bike race series just got canceled due to "permanent unrideable conditions at 3 of the 6 locations"...

 

 

and im just talking about taking a spacer or 2 from under the stem, its too high. but yea, i work in a metal shop so i know to measure twice cut once... haha

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Haven't been in for a while.

 

Been steady training like a beast, though. Five hours on Saturday and three on Sunday. The tempo intervals are getting longer and that's been pretty tough.

 

Training with power has been kind of interesting. I'm much more used to training with a HR monitor, which is a great tool but I'm learning it was only telling me my response to the workload instead of telling me what my workload is. All that means is that I believe I was working harder than I needed to in order to get the results I'm after. On Saturday's team ride I was told that I am riding stronger now than I have been at this time of year in years past. This could be a combo of the Powertap training and the kettlebells. I'm just excited to get some racing under my belt and see if this work is really giving me the edge I'm hoping for. Because at my age (41) I need all the edge I can get... legally.

 

I'm still waiting on the new bike... not sure how I feel about tubular wheels, though. Anyone have any experience with them?

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Fuck Joker, we're gonna be racing eachother in about 6 weeks if you're doing Cherry Pie...!

 

Tubulars - no experience with them on the road, but they make a difference for sure on the track. The nice thing is you can use sealant to fill up little punctures, so getting a flat no longer means you're SOL like in years past. I slow leak flatted a good 3 or so times at the track (Conti Tempo tires SUCK), but each time the sealant fixed it up. Everyone raves about high end Vittoria and Veloflex tires... Conti tires, besides the Sprinter, Sonderklasse and Steher seem to be shit across the board (a lot of their line follows Tufo's new school tubular construction which apparently doesn't lend to good ride quality; Dugast, FMB, Veloflex etc. are all old school).

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I'm still waiting on the new bike... not sure how I feel about tubular wheels, though. Anyone have any experience with them?

 

I rode a set of sew ups on my old Gitane Professional for about a year. I got a really nice pair of NOS Wolber Invulnerables as a gift so I glued them with Dugast onto a set of GP4s laced with NR hubs...I rode the Pro at work once in a while, and they held up fine. Great ride, nothing corners like sew ups.

 

Make sure they're glued on straight (better to have a shop do this), keep them at their highest rated pressure to prevent flats and deflate them when they aren't in use.

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