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Guest HESHIANDET

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so yeah, this tour has been fucked up.

 

and i hit 65 mph on a bike yesterday(in a group of 120 people).

new record.

 

crazy, fastest I've ever gone is 35 and eve on the motorized bike I only went 37... of course these are blah blah and not meant for yadda... but damn, I didn't find time to rent a bike in Aspen last summer but I did want to do some 50+ bombing... someday I guess...

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I did this one once...it's hectic.

 

Drill a hole all the way through the post, then put a long bolt through the hole. Then take the frame, and put it in a vise upside down and wrench it back and forth till the post freely turns in the frame. At that point, you should be able to remove it...but, you will need to get another post, obviously. Before you put the new post in, hone out the inside of the seat tube and USE GREASE on the new post.

 

That is a decent frame, but I guess it mostly depends on what it's worth to you. I had a PX-10 that was beautiful, but it was a mechanical nightmare. Nothing would work right on that bike for long, and I eventually gave up on it.

 

French bikes are tricky. That's the bottom line.

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That's only a last-resort tactic...it does put a lot of torsional stress on the seat tube and can break the clamp.

 

Liquid Wrench down the flutes should free it up. If that's not working, the seatpost is probably too large...most old Frenchies take a 25.0, and occasionally you'll find a 25.4 or 26.2 (the latter seems to be common for Gitanes built with 531). But, the best thing to do once you get it out is to use a seat post gauge to find out what that frame wants.

 

I mean, if you have your heart set on that particular frame, no amount of work is going to seem like it was wasted unless you break it.

 

I guess I should have thrown that in there to make your decision easier.

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HEY BIKE FOLKS, HELP A BROKE DUDE OUT.

 

I'm looking to buy a roadbike to commute, and ride along with my friends who are pros up at UC Davis.

 

I've got about a grand to spend on a bike, helmet, shoes, and clipless pedals. So far this is what i've tried out:

 

 

Fuji roubaix '06, $850. Also comes 10% cashback towards other shit. Sidi Genius' are $190.

Trek 1000/Lemond Etape: $645.

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Treks are trash, but i'm a snob.

 

The Roubaix has a carbon rear triangle i think, so i'd go with that. Fuji makes a good bike at a good price. And that frame isn't bad, and you can always upgrade around it.

Sidi's are the way to go, i just bought a pair today. First new pair of cycling shoes in about 3 years.

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If you're looking to buy a new bike from a shop, I'm sorry to say that a grand isn't going to get you a whole lot.

 

Ebay and craigslist are good sources, plus if your friends are pros I'm sure one of them has a bike they can give you a good deal on. A lot of people with money to burn upgrade every year or two, and let go of perfectly good stuff for next to nothing.

 

My advice to you is to consider getting a cross bike, because you can do almost anything with them- road, touring, offroad...modern road bikes are more or less one-trick ponies, in that they do one thing well but are seldom good for multi-purpose use.

 

Sorry, I have no idea what model that Peugeot is...it looks a lot like a Carbolite, but I couldn't be certain unless I saw it in person.

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Oh, yeah- Soup, you live in the Bay Area...there's a shop in San Rafael called Trips For Kids that always has nice bikes for sale...they usually sell for bout what they're worth, but I've seen Colnagos, Pinarellos, Bob Jacksons, and Somecs going for $450-750 in good condition. It's a good place to start if you want a high-end bike that doesn't cost a fortune.

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I agree, Specialized still makes great bikes, but the biggest gripe I have with modern bikes is the components. I wouldn't invest in anything less than 105 or Veloce for a road bike, just because the cheaper stuff tends to not stay tuned as well as the midrange components do.

 

Cross bikes tend to be built a lot "smarter", for lack of a better term. There's more attention to detail as far as the parts selection, and having cantilevers makes all the difference when you want to install fenders (and believe me, you will want to install fenders in the winter). The chainrings are another factor- most cross bikes go with 48/36 for a double, which is ideal for everyday use. Some have triples, and if you're a minimalist like me you can always go with a single.

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sorry to keep bothering about the peugeot,

but here is some more info if anyone cares

to try their lot in helping me ID the white lady.

 

+ pearlescent white with chromed fork

+ mavic rims laced to normandy hubs

+ mafac centerpulls stamped peugeot running into mafac levers

+ simplex shifters and derailleurs front and back

+ simplex dropouts

+ vitus 181 tubes

 

again sorry to bother but i have not had success anywhere else.

have at it if you care to.

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Type "bicycle frame identification serial number peugeot" into Google.

 

There's a lot of sites that maintain databases for collectors...also cycleart.com, sheldonbrown.com, oldroads.com, and bikeforums.com are some more resources off the top of my head.

 

I'd need the serial number to really be able to tell you definitively what you've got. All the details you listed pretty much sound like any typical Frenchie to me....it definitely sounds like a nice bike, though.

 

When I used to work at a shop, we'd get at least one person a week who would bring in an old Motobecane or Gitane in perfect shape, and would either want it converted into a fixed wheel or have some serious upgrades done to it...and, we'd tell them the same thing- LEAVE IT ALONE. About all we could (and would) do would be tune it up, replace the rubber and cables, and maybe the seat if it needed it....but, once you get into messing with the components, it can get really ugly- NO ONE makes that stuff anymore, and if you ever tried to find a specific replacement part for a French threaded bike, you'll realize it's next to impossible.

 

That's not to say you shouldn't try to make your Peugeot into what you want it to be, but definitely hold on to everything that the bike came with...you'll be saving yourself tons of headaches in the future.

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Well, I didn't have much luck. My guess is that it's older, since Vitus 181 was more commonly used in the mid 70's. My best guess is that it's a PY-10, or maybe a PKN-10. I used this site- http://home.wanadoo.nl/peugeotshow/ to compare it to some of the catalogs listed, but I got nowhere with the serial number...but, if you want to try to crack the code, here's what I found-

 

"Peugeots are typically marked with a serial number on the underside of the bottom bracket. Bikes built in the 1960's have the numbers stamped directly in the BB shell, and often have Nervex trademark and bottom bracket tube angle markings as well.There are six digits used on bikes from the 50's and 60's and seven digits used on bikes from the 70's. Bicycles built during the 80's have eight digits and a letter prefix. Around 1970, Peugeot began stamping the numbers on an aluminum plate which was riveted to the underside of the bottom bracket shell. It is unclear whether this applied to all bicycles. Some examples have gaps in the serial numbers. The flaw to this arrangement is the ease with which serial number plates are removed. Numerous Peugeots originally numbered with riveted plates can now be identified only by their decal schemes.Some examples have lower numerical serial numbers while having later decal schemes. By the end of the 1970's, Peugeot serial numbers were once again stamped in a more permanent fashion. Peugeots built in France during the 1980's can be dated by year through use of their serial numbers. Following a letter prefix, typically Y or B, the first number of the numeral code indicates the bicycle's model year (ex. PKN-10 #B 0667631, built in 1980). Track bicycles, at least, appeared to have their numbers stamped on the left rear dropout."

 

It's your best bet, but I'm doing some work on the comp tonight and will be offline pretty soon.

 

Good luck, hope all that helps.

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You're in the Bay Area so there's a pretty good chance you'll be able to find a used bike shop that has some gems in it for the price you're looking to pay.

 

I have to agree on the cross bike response. Especially if you can go single speed with it. With a cross bike you can also easily mount full fenders (with a courtesy flap if you're going for cool) to keep the gear dry when it's wet out. You can run bigger tires than a road bike and if you add some Mr. Tuffy in the tires... you're golden on the flats, practically. And most cross bikes come with hood brake levers and top mount brake levers... which is so nice. I've seen nice used cross bikes go for $800 or so. Just look around. Maybe even Criagslist.

 

This Tour is killing me while at the same time keeping me on the edge of my seat. Can we all get together and ban Al Trautwig from commentating the Tour?

 

Did my first race of the season the other day and ended up in 12th. Not too bad.

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THIS JUST IN:

-Trek 1000 SL in Duotone Flame

-Look Keo Sprint Pedals

-adiStar Road Pro pedals

Friend at Sharp came through and bundled it all for $800 cash.

The bike's pretty f'ing fast compared to my '84 bridgestone 400. The derailer's a bit janky but still great value.

 

Then found a wireless cat eye for $24.

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