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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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Originally posted by metropolitanmayhem@Oct 13 2005, 04:22 PM

spray paint? does it even work that good? or do u think u could spray loads into a jar and use it in a on the run?

are you talking about ON THE RUN MARKERS? well no not markers mops because it's going to clog your pen and it's waste you need somthing that flows alot of ink the kiwi mop is perfect for me just go look around and find some you can use the montana pens and replace the nibs with regular sponge the one that you use for washing dishes or cleaning up mess.

 

HAVE FUN! :clown2:

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"Whats the recipe for this shai, if you dont mind me asking... if you do its cool... but that color is sick."

 

I've covered this, but here it is again.

 

The good news is that this is an easy blend to make- Garvey, which has been covered here plenty, and Rolmark, which has not. The bad news is that these are two hard-to-find items, and you usually have to pay through the nose to get them. Rolmark is white Marsh ink. It also comes in other colors, like blue, red, yellow, and black. The black is not that good, and I have blue Rolmark, but good luck finding it...my can is forty years old.

 

Anyway, this is how I do it. Shake the can of Rolmark for a couple minutes, as it settles and won't be as opaque otherwise. Once it's mixed, fill a marker or mop about 3/4 full and do a one or two second pour of Garvey into the pen- usually less than a 1/2 inch or so. Replace the valve, and shake the pen for a few minutes to mix the two, testing it occasionally. You can fine-tune the color by adding Garvey to darken it, or Rolmark to lighten it. Once you're happy with the mix, there you go.

 

Both of these inks are on the web, so I know that they are out there, somewhere. They are both well worth the effort to find them. Good luck.

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I've noticed a lot of people asking me questions about what an ink looks like, how well it stains, does it fade, etc. that I've already covered...and, I know that some people get to the party later than others...but, I realized if I had some way to show people what a range of different inks will do, I could just show them something, and say, "Here's what I did, and this is why. You should experiment and see what works for you...none of these inks will cause a major reaction if mixed, so if you're careful, nothing should explode. No matter what I say, remember it's opinion, not fact...and, you're gonna make mistakes sometimes, but when it comes to what works best for you, you have to draw your own conclusions. All of these inks are available on the web, and it's up to you to find them there or in your area...good luck."

 

So, I did just that- I made a simple chart by making eighteen boxes on a sheet of medium watercolor paper and tested eighteen different inks I've used before by placing a drop or two of each ink on each square, and giving each a number so I could track the results. There's no review of the inks, and no, they aren't for sale right now. All I've done is put three tests to each ink- opacity, volatility, and lightfastness. The first two are done, the light test will take a week, and I'll post the results.

 

Opacity tests how well the ink covers, and may be the most important test. I tested this by putting a small black dot in the middle of each box with waterbased ink. Then, I took a swab and dipped it into each ink, and dabbed a circle about 3/8" (6mm) in the box, over the dot, and replaced the swab after every use. If I couldn't see the dot after a couple seconds, that meant the ink is opaque enough to suit most needs. If it was transparent, it was noted.

 

Volatility measures the solvent content of the ink. When people ask me about staining power, I almost always consider volatility first. Solvent seeps into porous surfaces, and always takes some pigment with it, as you'll see. I tested this by two means- turning the sheet over to see if the ink bled through, and measuring the size of the spot after letting the ink drops spread for a few hours.

 

Lightfastness determines whether the ink will fade in direct sunlight, and if so, by how much. I left the paper in the window, where it will sit for a week, and then I'll see what has faded and what hasn't.

 

Here's the field, and the numerical list with full names for each ink. All inks are black, unless noted. All inks are solvent based, unless noted. All inks are opaque, unless noted. Volatility- see chart.

 

[attachmentid=23039]

 

1. Pentel Markathon ink

2.Montana ink (alcohol base)

3.Createx Permanent dye (water base)

4.Marsh T-grade ink

5.Aero Specialty ink

6.Bad Trip ink (custom made)

7.Montana ink, red (alcohol base, transparent)

8.Garvey, black

9.Garvey, purple

10. Garvey, green (transparent)

11. Krink, silver

12. OTR metallic, purple

13. Marsh Rolmark, blue

14. Procolor ink, red (transparent)

15. Sanford Blacktop

16. Letraset Tria ink

17. Sanford ink (water base)

18. Pilot ink

 

[attachmentid=23040]

 

Here's the results for the front. The Garvey and Specialty inks seem to have spread the most, at 3/4" to 1" and the metallics haven't moved at all. Everything else seems about the same, at about 1/2". The waterbased inks have also stayed put.

 

[attachmentid=23041]

 

And, here's the back. The water based inks didn't bleed through, and Krink, Rolmark, and OTR have left only faint shadows. Everything else seems to be more or less the same, again.

 

So, it seems that most inks, by and large, are about the same. Well, I guess that's what it means. Or, they all seem to work the same with these controls. At least there's some kind of visual aid for everyone to look at, now. A couple of these surprised me- I assumed the Marsh and the metallics would have bled a lot more, but they haven't. Hmmm.

 

Well, that's it for now. I'll post the results of the light test next week.

Image004_1.jpg.d23d09c4fb2f492e9705bc55d8a7a96c.jpg

Image005_1.jpg.67be1732d9c9a544674c7d1c8e927d29.jpg

Image006_1.jpg.91bd920b207078200947377c49d1864b.jpg

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You don't want to know.

 

Well, let me see...All three Garvey colors, two kinds of Marsh, some antique Flomaster, a bottle of Pilot, Specialized, Fiebing's USMC black, Procolor, Montana black and red, and I squeezed the juice out of about 50 Sharpies that were taking up space...I don't remember what motivated that, but it worked. And, some japan drier and xylene to prevent this potion from congealing into a gigantic, toxic Crayon From Hell.

 

Anyway, I was doing this INSIDE, like a dummy- not in the studio, but in the living room (AKA studio annex) with all the windows and doors open and fans blowing. What should have taken me ten minutes seemed to take about two weeks...Iat one point, I thought I heard the ocean, but it was just the solvents coursing through my now-pickled brain. I took fresh air breaks outside and downstairs, but the minute I'd go back inside, it was all over- I'd just turn back into a...uh...slobbering idiot who....couldn't remember why he was reeling and holding the edge of the table, to the sound of mighty tom-toms, pounding, pounding away by the ocean...I thought I had a high tolerance for fumes, but that was my comeuppance.

 

Then, my girlfriend came home, and all hell broke loose. I hadn't spilled any ink, miraculously...but, she told me, "When I walked in, you looked like Gummo...your bottom lip was completely limp, your eyes were bugging out, and there was a pile of broken Sharpies in the trash. At first I thought you were eating them, then I saw the Jager bottle filled with.... Something. I asked you what you were doing and you mumbled something about whether the ink was done yet?"

 

I snapped back at this point...I remembered that I was making ink, and that there was some last thing that I had to do, but I couldn't put the concept together fast enough...and, the next thing I knew, someone was telling me to go outside, NOW, so I put...the...cap...on...the..bottle, verrry deliberately. And, I remembered- I was done! All I had to do was cap it and put it...where? I ended up putting it in three bags and stashing it in a cabinet in my studio. As it turns out, it's not a wery good ink, but it does have a weird purple cast to it...and, it melts most plastics and baked enamel finishes off of appliances, probably due to some chemical reaction that turned paint into paint remover that happens to smell like hi-octane gasoline, looks like black syrup, and works like napalm without the fire.

 

Now that you know, the name makes sense, right?

 

Everybody should watch this Iz The Wiz interview from a , where he's talking about how years of fumes wrecked his kidneys. It's pretty sad. I'm going to go get some new filters for my mask right now.

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Originally posted by whoneedsavet@Oct 15 2005, 02:24 PM

I think i can actually make that stuff it should be really easy to.. Ima give it ago.

HOOOOKAAY....Well, I would advise strongly against it unless you want to be soooooooo relaxed that you shit your pants.

 

"Oooohh....mmmannnnn...I. Juuuuuuuuust....pooooooooooed

my...self? Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh."

 

Oh, and a few things I should add WITH EMPHASIS-

 

WEAR A FUCKING MASK

 

DO IT OUTSIDE

 

WEAR A FUCKING MASK PRETTY PLEASE

 

STORE THAT SHIT IN A TIGHTLY SEALED GLASS BOTTLE

 

WHILE WEARING A FUCKING MASK THANK YOU MAN

 

LEAVE OUT THE MONTANA THAT'S THE DEAL BREAKER

 

MASKFUCKMASKFUCKMASKFUCKMASKFUCKMASKFUCK

 

EASY ON THE THINNER THERE CHIEF YOU WANT INK WITH THAT STINK

 

YO YO YO HEAVY ON THE FUCKING MASK B

 

I wish you luck...be safe.

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i can get that sanford crap in violet...which is near impossible.. i only got it once but found a store that has one. im prolly gonna get it tommarow. what i would usually do with this shit is add a couple drops to some griffin. now this sanford stuff makes the ink not really dry but itlll be seeping in for a while and if someone rubs it or cleans it then there is a huge 'cloud" of ink on the wall where the writing was.

my 2 cents on that stamp pad ink crap. pretty much it aint that good. use it like break fluid except to make things stain A LITTLE and more for OPACITY

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I was thinking it would be a quick operation. It's NOT a quick operation when you have ten bottles laid out in front of you, and you can't remember what you put in already...so, you add a little more...and then, once The Genie pops out of the bottle, and says, "WISHES? HA! I'M GONNA PUT THE HURT ON YOU NOW, LITTLE MAN!!!! HAHAHAHAHA....", then that's all she wrote, the fat lady has sung, and Elvis has left the building. You are one with the Universe, and the gigantic headache is merely the start of a loooong, confusing day.

 

Oh, Montana is really glossy, but not very good for bombing. I like it for stickers and insides, but it comes right off without too much effort. I'll think on this though.

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Garvey would do it, as would Griffin or Fiebing's.

 

There's two types of ink- dye and pigment. Dye ink seeps into anything it's applied to and is usually the best permanent option. Pigment ink adheres to the surface, sort of like paint, but doesn't seep into what it's applied to. Therefore, it's a lot easier to remove than dye-type ink.

 

Procolor is definitely a dye-type ink, as are most permanent stamp inks...I'm surprised it's not working for you. Maybe you just need to add a stronger solvent than what it is made with.

 

I just got one of my wholesaler catalogs today...very, very cool. Apparently, Marsh still makes T-grade in diferent colors, as well as Rolmark, in addition to a lot of other things I've never seen before- lots of cool shit with definite potential. I'm still trying to find the section for Garvey ink, though. They sell the old-style pricing guns without the self-inking pad, so I'm guessing they have to stock XT-70 as well. There's a MSDS listing for the acid etch ink for IC boards I mentioned here a while back, but I can't find it in the actual catalog. I doubt that I would have any use for this, but I never pass up an opportunity to try something new out, either.

 

Well, back to my heavy Sunday reading...my girlfriend probably thinks I'm nuts, since I'm reading this catalog like it's the latest edition of Hustler. Go figure.

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i made ink from ball point pens before. its pretty ill but you need to use a lot of pens to make anything worth it. i mixed some reds blues and blacks and came out witha sick purple and it stained good and when painted over it would come through sometimes

i used some shitty rubbing alcohol (50%) by the way

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no because i made that some time ago and dont remember where i used it... but i wouldnt use rubbing alcohol i would use something better.. it wont be like very weatherproof (i dont think it is at all). but it stains. i think because of you talking about using ball point pen ink im gonna empty like 20 pens into my ink

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys got a bit of a question, so today i got myself a tube of riso stamping (printers) ink (nice color) but i dont know what i can thin it with. Normally it would say on the back, and it might, but this shits from japan and frankly i cant read (or speak) japanese.

 

almost bought some one-shot but i didnt feel comfortable with the toxisity.....talk about toxic....

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Originally posted by MAR@Oct 31 2005, 05:19 PM

ok guys got a bit of a question, so today i got myself a tube of riso stamping (printers) ink (nice color) but i dont know what i can thin it with. Normally it would say on the back, and it might, but this shits from japan and frankly i cant read (or speak) japanese.

 

 

sorta figured out what i can thin it with (paint thinner) but its consistancy is like water

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i have a quick question. Will spray paint (i.e. spray paint that has been sprayed out into a bottle or jar of some sort) eat through plastic? im trying to fill my mop up, and im wondering if instead of the ol' bucket paint and thinner gig, i could just use whats left in some rusto scrap cans i have laying around. thanks

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