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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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Originally posted by Gates@Mar 4 2005, 03:24 PM

mother fucker buy the stuff and you'll find out..you're askin dipshit questions..

 

word, i could do that, but maybe they're not avaible in my area, and I have to order them from the internet, right? what's the problem if I get some facts first so that I know whether or not to get one, and I wouldn't have to waste my time, and my money to just try it out.

 

just mind your own fucking business, bitch.

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Originally posted by technikal@Mar 5 2005, 02:53 AM

hey omen is that orange dye type marsh off the website above no good or what? i realize it wont last in the weather since its dye type, but still would like to rock the orange color.

 

All the marsh dye type inks are very good inks even orange. If I can't get garvey...I always go with marsh...that nero is over-rated. I would rather have a pint of black marsh dye type ink than a small over priced nero deinferno black dye tye ink and that goes for OTR hard to buff as well.

 

Marsh is the number two contender for dye type inks and the price is really good and you also get a hell of a deal with their pigment inks as well.

So, any color that marsh has is going to be good and better than most inks. Any color you can't get in Garvey i.e. dye type...then get Marsh. You can get a whole quart of marsh for as low as $17 (depending on the color...some colors cost a little more. The ultra violet and violet is the most expensive) not a pint not or a tiny bottle of nero. But, a quart...that is ALOT of ink and you can get quarts of Pigment Marsh too. If you really want a good pigment ink....Get a quart the marsh Violet. Or any Marsh pigment...it will never fade!!!!!

You have to go to the source to get good inks that are not over priced. When you get ink off some of these graff sites...they are always over priced...except for some. Art-primo gives a good deal on pints of Garvey. But, you also have to have pigment for outside bombing. When I was doing the insides of the train cars...dye type is all we mostly used. But, pigment was needed for the windows and outside of the trains and outside tags in general.

 

You can't go wrong with Marsh. It is good stuff and it has no gimmick and it is not over priced.

Plus, there is no need to mess with it by putting in garbage thinking you will make it better. Unless you have white pigment and violet, blue or red garvey.

All you need is common sense and you will have success in your ink and your markers/mops.

 

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..OMEN>>>>so you're telling me that if i get white marsh pigment type ink and mix it with some garvey,(and a good mop of course) That it is in your great knowledge of inks from 20 some odd years of bombing the best for all around use, outside, poles, inside bathrooms, buses, etc... But i was wanting to get a real dark violet color or even the electric purple that garvey has (but not black) and it seems that the white marsh would make it lighter, so i was thinking of getting maybe the violet marsh pigment or the red and mixing it with violet garvey to get a dark purple for staining objects that are outside to get some dark ghosts around my city that won't fade in the sun. If this is true this seems to be the ink of all inks........ the shit i have been looking for in these freaking pilot inks, fiebings, nero, which either get buffed easy or fade........ (P.S. Thanks for schooling me and the rest of these kids, Its good to have an OG in here with out you we'd all be runnin around sprayin fish oil with metal flakes in it everywhere)

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Originally posted by technikal@Mar 5 2005, 03:46 AM

..OMEN>>>>so you're telling me that if i get white marsh pigment type ink and mix it with some garvey,(and a good mop of course) That it is in your great knowledge of inks from 20 some odd years of bombing the best for all around use, outside, poles, inside bathrooms, buses, etc... But i was wanting to get a real dark violet color or even the electric purple that garvey has (but not black) and it seems that the white marsh would make it lighter, so i was thinking of getting maybe the violet marsh pigment or the red and mixing it with violet garvey to get a dark purple for staining objects that are outside to get some dark ghosts around my city that won't fade in the sun. If this is true this seems to be the ink of all inks........ the shit i have been looking for in these freaking pilot inks, fiebings, nero, which either get buffed easy or fade........ (P.S. Thanks for schooling me and the rest of these kids, Its good to have an OG in here with out you we'd all be runnin around sprayin fish oil with metal flakes in it everywhere)

 

You can do alot with making garvey pigmented...yet keeping it eletric looking. You would suprised how nice one third white pigment and two thirds violet garvey looks...It is a "phat" color that will last forever. But, you can also get Pigmented violet marsh and mix it with violet garvey and you will have the exact color you are looking for...that will never fade on the streets. Then you can darken the garvey with a little black marsh dye type ink or black garvey and white pigmented marsh. There are so many ways to make your color you want with just using Garvey and Marsh and leave out the break fluid and fish oil...unless you want to waste your money and ruin your ink.

 

So, the two factors is Garvey and pigmented Marsh and you will have your dream ink.

The hell with the rest...go with the best and use common sense. :king:

 

Edit:

 

In this picture...the mini OTR with the black tape wrapped around the cap next to the small red OTR red ink is white marsh and violet garvey. Once you shake it up real well...it really has a decent "electric" violet color and writes smooth and even drips. I love that mini OTR. Because, it has White Marsh and Violet Garvey mixed just right for a fresh color...trust me on this.

 

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture049.jpg

 

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Originally posted by Biters Forum@Mar 5 2005, 06:56 PM

Omen... Do you happen to know what the garvey website is??

 

The first link is where I got all of my Garvey...I have an account with them and would call to tell them what I wanted direct without having to go to the website. However, they are not showing all the colors and they are not showing the different sizes, like 4oz and 16oz. It seems they are only showing 8oz in Violet, Blue & Black (they have the F-300 in violet & Green...But, I never used the F-300). So, I don't know what is going on. Before, they showed pints of Red, Black, Blue, Green and of course Violet in all sizes from 4oz up to gallon bottles. But, if I called needing some I am sure I could get what I needed.

 

On another note. Someone like yourself would be better off using "Art-Primo" to get Garvey and that is on he second link. Their prices are not bad at all. If you shop there ask for Mari and tell them Dave from New York City sent you.

 

http://www.garveyproducts.com/inks.htm

 

http://www.artprimo.com/refill_inks.htm

 

picture006.jpg

 

Some other stuff

Mini nibs...second row is the old skool nibs top row is replacement new mini nibs and OTR nibs

 

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture019_1.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture020_1.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture021_1.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture017_1.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture022_2.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture015.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture016.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture014.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture023_2.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture034.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture033_1.jpg

 

13 inch Italian Stilettos

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture037.jpg

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is marsh pigment type alcohol based? i'm kinda confused as to how it can mix with alcohol-based inks (without the addition of acetone as a binder) since more pigment-based ink is either water or oil-based...

 

if marsh's pigment types are alcohol based than i'll most definately be buying a quart...

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Originally posted by icetray@Mar 4 2005, 07:21 PM

I know this question doesn't belong in here, but does anyone know the differences between Markal Paintstik-B, and Sakuras, or Meanstreaks?

 

I don't know the specifics about the chemical contents of each marker, but I'll try to break it down with experience. I know they're all oil sticks, but meanstreaks tend to be a little more sticky, and I'd guess they have some ammonia in them, based on the smell. They never seem to completely cure, either.

 

Sakuras are shit. They're similar to mean streaks, but tend to get brittle in the cold and a little chalky/gummy over time. Meanstreaks are more or less the same, but write a bit smoother and seem to last longer. I like using meanstreaks in the summer. They're ready to use, unlike a markal, carry easily in a pocket, and write pretty well in the warmer weather.

 

Markals are the business, in my opinion. It's essentially a stick of semi-solid oil paint encased in a thin layer of dried paint. They can be a little tricky to learn to work with, but once you get familiar with them, they're unbeatable. Markals in particular (as opposed to Shiva or any other brands of oil sticks) seem to coast along any surface like butter, and leave a nice thick layer of paint. I've seen some markal streaks on freight that are 10+ years old and only show a little age. You have to shave off the layer of dried paint and expose the usable paint underneath, and continue to do so as the marker wears down. I usually bring a boxcutter with me for shaving down my markal, and get a nice point on it, but you can just scrape the dry layer off on the ladder of a boxcar or whatnot. You have to use the edge of a markal, rather than mashing it down. It makes a much smoother, consistent line. If you can find the cold weather markals, those are the absolute best.

 

Now I have a question. I've been sitting on a couple bottles of fiebings leather stain for a couple years, not knowing what to do with it. i tried using it once way back, and it just kind of beaded up on the box i was writing on, and didn't do anything worthwhile. What should I mix it with to get it to work better? Pilot? Griffin? Stamp Ink? If I can't use it on any surface, it's no good to me.

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Originally posted by bumsuckfun+Mar 5 2005, 10:40 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (bumsuckfun - Mar 5 2005, 10:40 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>is marsh pigment type alcohol based?  i'm kinda confused as to how it can mix with alcohol-based inks (without the addition of acetone as a binder) since more pigment-based ink is either water or oil-based...

 

if marsh's pigment types are alcohol based than i'll most definately be buying a quart...

[/b]

 

 

It is...I don't have to check the label. Because, I have been mixing Marsh pigment with dye type for over 20 years and had nothing but fresh everlasting ink. Cool colors, hard to buff and it never fades. Using straight up pigmeant Marsh (without mixing) will stay up and shine for years outdoors also (but, hooking it up with dye type ink will give it more staining power to pourous surfaces)...take my word for it.

 

Originally posted by Old Growth@Mar 5 2005, 11:50 PM

<!--QuoteBegin-icetray@Mar 4 2005, 07:21 PM

I know this question doesn't belong in here, but does anyone know the differences between Markal Paintstik-B, and Sakuras, or Meanstreaks?

 

Now I have a question. I've been sitting on a couple bottles of fiebings leather stain for a couple years, not knowing what to do with it. i tried using it once way back, and it just kind of beaded up on the box i was writing on, and didn't do anything worthwhile. What should I mix it with to get it to work better? Pilot? Griffin? Stamp Ink? If I can't use it on any surface, it's no good to me.

It will "bead up" meaning it looks like rain drops when you write on non porous surfaces...Garvey does the same thing. Like if you have a really glossy magazine, it will "bead up" and not stick. But, if you go to a painted surface like a wall or a plastic surface that is not treated with any gloss...a porous material....it will sink in and stain. You don't need to do anything with your fiebings. There are different inks for different surfaces. Just use it on a different more absorbent surface and you will get results.

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Originally posted by Pearlpaint@Mar 6 2005, 10:45 AM

FUCK! I SPILT INK ALL OVER MY CARPET

--------------------------------------------

 

I had a lil cup of pilot ink and dot 3 mixed up and left it there. I just knocked the damn shit over! Anyone know a good way to clean it up?!

 

I know pilot comes off easily with xylol, acetone, or any other strong thinner. Getting it out of your carpet? That's tough. I think you may have to soak it with paint thinner, and then go over it with one of those wet-vac carpet cleaning machines. I know when I was a kid my mom would rent one from the local market. Rent-a-Center or some place like that ought to have one.

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Originally posted by Old Growth@Mar 6 2005, 08:41 PM

Cool.  Thanks for dropping the knowledge, Omen.  It's about time we got someone like you in here.

 

@Old Growth....It is my pleasure to talk about things that people can use to help make a true graff writer.

 

_________________________________

 

 

I always have a spray bottle of KABOOM and a scrub brush just in case I get a drop or an ink spill. I had some Garvey spray on out tan rug and I rushed and sprayed it with kaboom before it had a chance to soak in and fuck my the carpet...my wife would have killed me if I fucked up the carpet. So, you have to be ready for that to happen. When I work with ink I use the bathroom or the kitchen over a piece of cardboard with latex gloves.

Once the ink sets in...you can more or less forget about getting the stain out.

It dyes the carpet. Paint type ink comes out a little easier. But, Dye type ink like Black Marsh or any type of Garvey has to be addressed as soon as it is spilled.

 

When I was living with my folks. My room looked like the 1 train. It was fucking bombed! I would test my paint and mops and markers by doing tags. My friends would do tags, even throw ups. I had Kel Tags, Min tags and a dozen other famous writers that visited me tag on my walls and when we ran out of wall, door and ceiling space. I started to tag on my furniture, my dresser, my desk, my bed, the sides of the TV, the fish tank, even the windows. My carpet was full of stains and drips. My folks were mad at first and they just accepted it...Lol

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Unfreakin' believable! This ink mixture that spilled has lots of dot3 in it. I placed a bunch of paper towels on it and a paint can for weight and when i got home to clean it, the paper towel soaked it all up! No trace of the black ink, but it did leave a very light grease stain. I'm pretty relieved. Thank god for DOT 3 slow drying property

 

Thanks for the tip. I was thinking that would be the best way.

 

 

Originally posted by Old Growth+Mar 6 2005, 04:44 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Old Growth - Mar 6 2005, 04:44 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Pearlpaint@Mar 6 2005, 10:45 AM

FUCK! I SPILT INK ALL OVER MY CARPET

--------------------------------------------

 

I had a lil cup of pilot ink and dot 3 mixed up and left it there. I just knocked the damn shit over! Anyone know a good way to clean it up?!

 

I know pilot comes off easily with xylol, acetone, or any other strong thinner. Getting it out of your carpet? That's tough. I think you may have to soak it with paint thinner, and then go over it with one of those wet-vac carpet cleaning machines. I know when I was a kid my mom would rent one from the local market. Rent-a-Center or some place like that ought to have one.

[/b]

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Cool.  Thanks for dropping the knowledge, Omen.  It's about time we got someone like you in here.

[/quote}

 

When I was living with my folks. My room looked like the 1 train. It was fucking bombed! I would test my paint and mops and markers by doing tags. My friends would do tags, even throw ups. I had Kel Tags, Min tags and a dozen other famous writers that visited me tag on my walls and when we ran out of wall, door and ceiling space. I started to tag on my furniture, my dresser, my desk, my bed, the sides of the TV, the fish tank, even the windows. My carpet was full of stains and drips. My folks were mad at first and they just accepted it...Lol

:haha: Thats funny cause that's what my room looks like right now,

without the kel tags :(

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Originally posted by rubbish heap@Mar 7 2005, 04:19 AM

Glad to see Omen is back in here... whatup rinse. Stay up peoples

 

 

Whats up G?

 

Take a took at the page before this and the inventory thread...it has stuff I should have posted awhile ago when you started this thread. I remember adding to this thead ALOT over a year ago...I have over 150 posts alone on this thread but the page before this one has pics and links to pics. I have a link to both threads in my sig.

 

I just had to get a web cam that worked...lol

 

Stay up :king:

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im i lucky i was walking around my collage and happened to find a random board rubber lying on the floor.the class rooms no longer had the blackboard rubbers,and google wasnt giving me any results a s posting to england.so i thought i am deffinatly having that ,finally at last i have found one for now,its only good for 4 mops.But im bot complaining.

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omen

i see you don't too much dig the ban roll on deodorant because the ball doesn't pop off easily. here's my rememdy for anyone who can't find the arrid.

take a sharp knife and stab a whole right through the ball. then grab some pliers and grip inside the tear and yank the ball out. if any of the rim bends slightly, you should be able to shape it back up with the pliers or your hand. pour out the deodorant, or try using some of it first you smelly bastard, and bam, a nice carcuss for a dope mop.

omen, couple questiosn for you since you seem to be the wise man here.

have you ever tried a mix of violet garv xt70 with marsh black dye type? i have done a close to half and half mixture of xt70 with black pilot, enough pilot so that the ink comes out black. shit stains hard as hell indoor and outdoor, but fades just a little in the sun, so i'm wondering if dye type marsh would be any better than the pilot.

second question is have you used black pigment marsh with garv? i usually bomb with one light color for dark surfaces and a dark color for light surfaces, usually an otr with garv/pilot and a ban/eraser mop with silver rusto/mineral spirits/dot3. seems to me white marsh with garv would be more on the lighter side, so is the back as good as the white?

also how does the pigment ink do by itself? preciate the wisdom. peace

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Originally posted by test@Mar 8 2005, 12:59 AM

omen

i see you don't too much dig the ban roll on deodorant because the ball doesn't pop off easily. here's my rememdy for anyone who can't find the arrid.

take a sharp knife and stab a whole right through the ball. then grab some pliers and grip inside the tear and yank the ball out. if any of the rim bends slightly, you should be able to shape it back up with the pliers or your hand. pour out the deodorant, or try using some of it first you smelly bastard, and bam, a nice carcuss for a dope mop.

omen, couple questiosn for you since you seem to be the wise man here.

have you ever tried a mix of violet garv xt70 with marsh black dye type? i have done a close to half and half mixture of xt70 with black pilot, enough pilot so that the ink comes out black. shit stains hard as hell indoor and outdoor, but fades just a little in the sun, so i'm wondering if dye type marsh would be any better than the pilot.

second question is have you used black pigment marsh with garv? i usually bomb with one light color for dark surfaces and a dark color for light surfaces, usually an otr with garv/pilot and a ban/eraser mop with silver rusto/mineral spirits/dot3. seems to me white marsh with garv would be more on the lighter side, so is the back as good as the white?

also how does the pigment ink do by itself? preciate the wisdom. peace

 

 

When I first started making mops...I used ban containers. In fact it was all I used, they were glass and a plastic ring held in the ball and you would simply pop the ring off the container and out came the ball and you cleaned it and made your mop. The arrid is like the old ban containers...with the ring. The only difference, the container is not glass it is plastic.

The problem with the new ban containers is not getting the ball off, you can pop it out with a screw driver. But, once the ball is out, there is just a tiny hole instead of a hole the diameter of the bottle. So, that prevents you from shoving a wide eraser strip down into the container. So, if you can't get arrid...just get the 4 oz round shoe polish container. Take off the foam nib, pour our the shoe polish, clean it, dry it and add your ink and fold an eraser strip and shove it in the opening. It is drippy and works like a champ. Plus, it hold a lot of ink.

 

As far as mixing dye with dye. It does not make sense. If you are looking for dye type ink that you don't want to fade...all you need is to get marsh pigment and mix it with the dye type ink. That way you have the staining power of the dye and the long last non fading with the pigment type ink. You can make fresh colors with white marsh pigment as the base. It depends on how much dye you use to darken it. Half white and half violet Garvey violet makes a very decent color that won't buff nor fade.

However, Marsh also makes different colors of pigment, they even make violet pigment and you can use that straight up without mixing it with anything and it will last 20 years. I mentioned that I put a tag on a metal lamp post with pigment marsh around 1982-83 and it is still there almost as bright as the day I wrote it...it has been there so long, it is now part of the lamp post. So, common sense says mixing it was not needed.

Just scroll back to the last page and go to the real Marsh site and you can get quarts for a really good price....A quart is a hell of a lot of ink, and it is from Marsh...one of the best companies. Even marsh dye type violet or ultraviolet is very good. All you need is garvey and marsh or just marsh pigment in your favorite color and a good marker/mop and bomb. No more wasting time trying to enhance something that does not need to be enhanced...Just make your marker and get up...it is cut and dry. :)

 

Edit,

 

Here is the link (below) to the source...get your marsh here to prevent getting ripped off. You can also get a marsh 99 metal valve marker in round or chisel tip for only 9 bucks. Graff sites charge anywhere from 18 to 25 bucks for the same marker. So, it is better to go to the source for good prices. As for Garvey...go to Art Primo if you don't have an account with the Garvey company.

 

For Marsh click on link below.

http://www.detroitcodemark.com/Hand%20Mark...%20-%20TINK.htm

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