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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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Originally posted by HOVIE

can someone hook me up with a site where i can find the translation from ounce to mililetres please...that garvey stuff isnt too expensive i might get some...

 

http://www.google.com/help/features.html#calculator

 

the auction on ebay ships internationally. click here to see it. at the garvey site, they make you buy a minimum of 25 dollars worth.

 

by the way, you have to use paypal in the auction if you live overseas.

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It seems like that guy has a lot of Garvey auctions up. We both live fairly close to each other so I'm gonna email him and see if he can sell some Garvey to me without the exra money for the shipping on the auction. Anyway they got this leather dye in an aerosol can here, if its as permanent as the other stuff like feibings then it might be like paint, anyone ever tried this?

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Okay, as I promised, I did a buff test today.

 

Materials Used:

 

+ An old white t-shirt for the rag

+ Goof Off cleaner (made to buff inks and spilled paint)

+ Stock ink out of a Kiwi Mop

+ Griffin

+ Pilot Ink

+ OTR Silver (alcohol based)

+ Uni Paint Silver (oil based)

+ white Meanstreak

+ red Sakura Streak

+ Straight liquid Gentian Violet (which is like, 2% gentian violet powder and the rest water and alcohol)

+ Violet Garvey.

+ A dumpster.

 

1st Buff: The Stock Kiwi Ink

 

This shit was the easiest to buff, left no ghost, and didn't stain at all. Definitely the weakest ink of the batch.

 

2nd Buff: OTR (alcohol based) Silver as compared to Uni Paint (oil based) Silver

 

The OTR Shit was pretty easy to buff; a little stronger than the Stock Kiwi Ink, but nonetheless it took no effort to remove it and it didn't leave any ghost. The Uni Paint Silver was a little stronger and harder to buff; it would probably last longer in the weather. It didn't stain or leave a ghost either, but it was decent.

 

3rd Buff: White Meanstreak as compared to Red Sakura Streak

 

I was kind of surprised, the red Sakura was easier to buff than the white Meanstreak. Actually, I never got the Meanstreak completely off, but the Sakura took a little effort and was harder to buff than the Uni Paint Silver.

 

4th Buff: Pilot Ink

 

This shit left no ghost, didn't stain much at all, but it did smear a little when I buffed it. I'd say it was about as strong as the Uni Paint Silver, maybe a little stronger. Decent shit.

 

5th Buff: Liquid Gentian Violet

 

This shit looks purple and leaves a green shine to it. Now, bear in mind it contains only 2 percent of the actual Gentian Violet; that said, it was easy to buff but smeared everywhere. Hopefully, I can obtain some regular Gentian Violet powder soon.

 

6th Buff: Violet Garvey and Black Griffin

 

These two were the hardest to buff, and the best staining. The Griffin was stronger than any of the previous inks, and left a semi light, semi dark ghost. Definitely a quality ink/dye, but not as good as... Violet Garvey. Now I was surprised at how hard this thing was to buff. It was definitely the strongest ink, and stained the hardest. The ghost it left was a deep, dark purple, and it didn't even look like someone tried to buff it. I give Garvey an A+, easily the best shit I've come across since Fiebing's.

 

I encourage any of you reading to go and do buff tests for yourself.

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Originally posted by ARCEL

rubbish, i was thinking, you might be able to condense the gentian violet if you obtained a few bottles, dumped them in a dish, and set them out, or maybe even microwaved or cooked it. i'll likely get me a bottle of garvey at some point.

 

though that may be true, i think it'd be easier just to get the pure, powerful powder form.

 

by the way, i will probably get it off http://www.sciencelab.com, along with potassium permaganate and ethanol. go to that site and type in 'dry stain'; methylene blue and gentian violet will come up, but powders in other colors also appear, like yellow, green, all kinds of shit. could these be other colored additives that help stain well?

 

there is potential.

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if you have a fair bit on one type of ink, or even a few kinds, put some out and let it dry out (like mentioned above with gentian violet) and mix it in with the remainder of the ink..it should be a little thicker and more opaque...seems to have worked nicely for me in the past

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Originally posted by chumbawumba

Hey rubbish, how do you do these "buff tests"? Do you just smear the shit you want to see how hard it is to buff on the dumpster and then try to buff it? This is a really great thing thing you do to find out the staining power of inks, nice thinking brainiac. Peace,

 

Chumba.

 

1. Find a dumpster that is out of sight, or any surface you want to test the ink on.

 

2. If your ink is in a marker, just make some marks that way.

 

3. If the inks in a container, use a dabber like the ones that come with Fiebing's, or use an eye dropper, or put some ink in a very small jar and dump that shit right on.

 

4. Come back in a day or so; it's important that the ink is dry before you buff it.

 

5. Get an old rag and some industrial solution that's made to buff inks; I use Goof Off.

 

6. Buff away; if the shit leaves no ghost, you know its not that great. This is probably the easiest way to find out what inks/paints/dyes are stronger than others.

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Guest imported_b0b

I wouldnt mix nero, that stuff is great as it is. It is best (as far as I'm aware) used on transit or busstops etc. Not really a street bombing ink. Add some of the additive powders people on here talking about and hey presto, killer stains. That stuff stinks though

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Originally posted by b0b

I wouldnt mix nero, that stuff is great as it is. It is best (as far as I'm aware) used on transit or busstops etc. Not really a street bombing ink. Add some of the additive powders people on here talking about and hey presto, killer stains. That stuff stinks though

 

why is it not a street bombing ink? and what can you compare the smell to?

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