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rubbish heap

INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

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im guessing he meant something like smash ink when mentioning xylene but for the most part xylene is used for thinning paint and itll eat the fuck out of any plastic based mop/marker if you leave it long enough

 

to make some shit like that get some silver metal rust paint, dunno what youd call it in america i guess just rustoleum bucket paint. they do it in small 250ml tins so get that and mix it with 3 or 4/5ths thinner (so 250ml paint/200ml thinner), stir the fuck out of it and put in a mop or whatever shit, basically just the same ghetto krink recipe thats being floating around for the last 15 year. im from britain so i tend to get these two:

 

[ATTACH=full]201258[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]201259[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

that thinner is xylene based but if youre leaving paint in a mop long enough for it to eat through and leak you're shite

Nice recipe I make my own ink,I'm in UK,still got tags up from 8 years ago,get it on your hands,it's worse than invisible ink,u remember flowmaster ink made by berol,loved that shit but don't make it no more

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5c4f3190.jpg.2cf32e05a618fa18eeede99699254984.jpg

 

^yes/no?

 

Located this old ass drafting shop, the old man has tons of different inks..any gems in specific I should be digging for?

Flowmaster,made by berol

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Anyone ever used this stuff and know if it's any good? I saw some at an old office supply liquidation place and I'm thinking about buying it.

 

image.jpeg.c8e315d99cde90741ad721ce9f4f8893.jpeg

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dunno if there is Feast and Watsons anywhere but down under , its a spirit based wood stain good to chuck straight in a mop does anybody know good things to add to it ? theres a recipe with black oxide pigment that will be good does anybody know that?

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dunno if there is Feast and Watsons anywhere but down under , its a spirit based wood stain good to chuck straight in a mop does anybody know good things to add to it ? theres a recipe with black oxide pigment that will be good does anybody know that?

You can run feast straight or mix it with Acetone, Metho, other inks and maybe some brake fluid. Apply it as wet as possible, the longer it takes to dry to the deeper the scar will be and it usually bleeds through the first coat of buff as well. I was researching some plastic staining stuff from USA and some other stuff called leather dye I would like to get my hands on. Ill put some pics up soon.

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i just bought a pilot jumbo n' can't figure out how to take the top off. i tried to unscrew the the "nib" section after i took off the top but it wouldn't budge

Counter clockwise, u gotta be smarter than the marker

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Hydroflouric acid will etch glass. I do not take any responsibility for you fucking yourself up trying to mess with this nasty acid. If you get arrested for etching glass, not my problem.

 

I will give you one warning though and that's that if you dilute it, it will not cause an acid burn on your skin immediately but it will absorb into your skin immediately and start depleting calcium from your body. This is some die in your sleep 10 hours later from not being careful or damage to your bones that will never heal itself. I highly suggest you read the MSDS on this acid before deciding it's something you want to do. I know glass etch is controversial so you know, go fuck up someone else's city with it, not your own blabh blahblabh.

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anyone know of something to put in paint to make it bleed though buff paint and does putting multiple solvents in a paint recipe help against the buff.  The one shop near me makes this stuff called mutt ink which it smells like acetone, xylene and mineral spirits, the shit is hard af to buff it bleeds through paint and runs through markers but idk what could make paint so hard.  im also an idiot so that may be part of my problem

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On 12/1/2017 at 8:45 AM, Dirty_habiT said:

Hydroflouric acid will etch glass. I do not take any responsibility for you fucking yourself up trying to mess with this nasty acid. If you get arrested for etching glass, not my problem.

 

I will give you one warning though and that's that if you dilute it, it will not cause an acid burn on your skin immediately but it will absorb into your skin immediately and start depleting calcium from your body. This is some die in your sleep 10 hours later from not being careful or damage to your bones that will never heal itself. I highly suggest you read the MSDS on this acid before deciding it's something you want to do. I know glass etch is controversial so you know, go fuck up someone else's city with it, not your own blabh blahblabh.

You'll most likely not die in your sleep.  The manner in which the shit fucks with your nervous system is one of the most excruciatingly painful things in existence according to everything I've ever read.  

If you need to use etch for whatever reason, go grab one of the Sodium / Ammonium Fluoride based ones instead.  They're not as fast-acting, but we didn't even use etch to do actual glass etching in the shop I worked at.  That's why sandblasters exist.  Seriously. 

 

If you don't want to take my word for it, compare and contrast USC's guide for working with HF:

https://ehs.usc.edu/files/SOP-Hydrofluoric-Acid.pdf

Quote

Hydrogen fluoride (HF) and its liquid form, hydrofluoric acid, are among the most dangerous chemicals in laboratories.  Before you start working with hydrofluoric acid, consult with a Chemical Hygiene Officer and register with the Chemical Safety Program for highly toxic/dangerous substances. 

...

  • Hydrofluoric acid can produce very painful and life threatening tissue burns, but its critical harmful effect comes from the action of the fluoride (F-), not acid burn.

  • Initially, an HF burn may not be obvious like a usual painful acid burn, but fluoride ion from HF forms such a strong bond to Ca 2+ in bones.  It reaches to bones and leaches calcium from bones and may tie up calcium in nerve cell.  This disruption of nerve conduction leads to very painful burns after a latent period and can be life threatening when disrupting a heart function.

  • In high concentration (more than 50%), HF usually causes immediate burns that are extremely painful and slow to heal.  In lower concentration, exposure may not be apparent for several hours, but can still cause burns and further damage if not washed off and treated.

  •  

Etc...  washing it off will not help you, you need to smear yourself with more chemicals and get to a hospital, put a sign up saying you're working with HF specifically, and make sure somebody knows what you're handling so they can get your ass to the hospital when your nervous system shuts down. 

 

...with their guide on working with shit that spontaneously explodes / catches fire:

https://ehs.usc.edu/files/SOP-Reactive-Explosive.pdf

 

Quote

All procedures involving reactive/explosive materials must have engineering controls in place (e.g., fume hood with blast shield, inert atmosphere chamber, or other suitable protective equipment) to guard against runaway reactions and protect against hazardous exposure.

They go on with heavy gloves suitable for chemical, use your judgement on whether a spill is too large to clean up yourself, etc.  They don't repeatedly warn you about how much it will hurt if your hand is blown off by some messed up spontaneously explosive mixture, because they reserve that warning for HF. 

 

That's the end of my public service announcement for the day.  ? 

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Yep I was apprehensive about even purchasing it.  I needed it to do etching for some painting I was doing on metal/porcelain surfaces.... and i still have over half a gallon of the stuff.  It's concentrated too.  I bought special, very heavy gloves made specifically to have resistance to this acid before ever even opening the cap on it.

 

  I definitely tried to find other means of doing the same job (etching metal in preparation for surface coating) as fast as HF does it..... but there's not really much.  In any case, it is as you mentioned very very very nasty shit that is not to be messed with if you're someone that is prone to making mistakes or not researching things and understanding them extensively before diving in head first.

 

Please be careful.

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There’s an old story of a lad messing with aluminium powders as additives and an iodine based liquid was used and it created Reactions. 

 

Basing pigments and dyes dyes with ammonia and other thinners is paying off

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On 7/23/2018 at 9:42 AM, RASKY said:

anyone know of something to put in paint to make it bleed though buff paint and does putting multiple solvents in a paint recipe help against the buff.  The one shop near me makes this stuff called mutt ink which it smells like acetone, xylene and mineral spirits, the shit is hard af to buff it bleeds through paint and runs through markers but idk what could make paint so hard.  im also an idiot so that may be part of my problem

Any dyes that dissolve in Acetone, xylene or MEK can be added to oil based paint for bleed thru. Oil based woodstain also works, bitumen will work, raven oil will work, magic ink and oil based shoe dye will do the job. Essentially anything that stains which has an oil base or a solvent that dissolves in oil for a base will work. I use a bitumen based recipe for my black GK and its a bitch to buff and stains and bleeds through but it's completely weather resistant like paint. 

But woodstain is probably easier. 

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On 9/17/2018 at 3:15 PM, hotsauceinthedickholewastaken said:

Anyone know if Trade Secret Pro Leather Restore kits have leather dye that will work. Can't find the stuff mentioned in the thread already.

 

Yeah it will definitely work its just about what it will mix with. I think I've read somewhere it's Oil based, so it'll mix with xylene based pilot ink, potassium permanganate in acetone, woodstain, oil based paints etc too which is pretty sweet. 

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