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rubbish heap

INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

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xylene does not dissolve bitumen without help. it is the wrong type of solvent. its like trying to dissolve butter with orange juuice.

 

sure you can dissolve it eventually, but it is not in the least bit practical.

 

 

andf im guessing by semi liquid asphalt (which means the rocks and all that good stuff) you mean granulated dry bitumen....because even google right noow is saying "double-yew tee eff mate?!"

 

liquid asphalt comes in pre-mixed heated trucks, and i know your name aint that big.

 

no, i bought liquid asphalt from an art store. it came in a 16oz container, nice smooth thick black asphalt.

you can easily thin it with xylene or an oil based solvent like naphtha paint thinner ect.

 

ill post pics later if you dont belive me lol, but ive been fucking with bitumen/ tar based inks since day 1.

i used to make bitumen ink straight from pieces of road, heat it up, thin it then strain out the rocks.

 

and yea the pic that 561 posted is exactly what it looks like. thats what bitumen naturally is, you can wikipedia it, its viscous liquid.

 

but if you want to make ink with it, youve got to have some black pigment, becaue when you get it thin enoguht its more of a brown color

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im the one that suggested this back a few pages.

 

get the bitumen from a store that sells paving supplies for driveways, get the naptha from a paint store (vm&p naptha) or ronson lighter fluid works ok...

 

i suggested MEK or acetone for the copier toner because it dissolves the polymers very easy.

 

What does 'copier toner' and 'polymer' mean?

 

I was thinking of doing a mix with GV and PP as stainers and then Bitumen, to protect against the sun since it doesn't fade.

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polymer means basically any complex molecule. like plastic and stuff liek that. copier toner is the powder ink stuff that copiers use to print.

 

and if u add in gv or potassium permanganate, make sure u dissolve them in acetone so that they mix in. cuz gv and pp are usually in alcohol, which doesnt mix with oils.

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polymer means basically any complex molecule. like plastic and stuff liek that. copier toner is the powder ink stuff that copiers use to print.

 

and if u add in gv or potassium permanganate, make sure u dissolve them in acetone so that they mix in. cuz gv and pp are usually in alcohol, which doesnt mix with oils.

 

Thanks alot! :)

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lol

here ill drop a lil recipie for u guys

 

get-zinseer shellac-darkest color they have

de-natured alcohol

charcoal powder or carbon powder, w.e. any FINE black pigment

some stainer, gv w.e. pick your fav

 

mix about 1/4 shellac shit with 3/4 alcohol

 

then add carbon until its as opaque as u want!

lol then add some stainer or w.e.

 

or mix this with other inks.

so far its the only way i know of making a pigmented alcohol based ink from scratch. and if your pigments is fine enoguh it'll flow thru a marker, if not just mop it

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you can make your own coal by wrapping dry wood chunks in foil and cooking them at high heat.

 

i used to make artists charcoal like that with twigs. just wrap them up real air tight and throw them in the fire.

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lol

here ill drop a lil recipie for u guys

 

get-zinseer shellac-darkest color they have

de-natured alcohol

charcoal powder or carbon powder, w.e. any FINE black pigment

some stainer, gv w.e. pick your fav

 

mix about 1/4 shellac shit with 3/4 alcohol

 

then add carbon until its as opaque as u want!

lol then add some stainer or w.e.

 

or mix this with other inks.

so far its the only way i know of making a pigmented alcohol based ink from scratch. and if your pigments is fine enoguh it'll flow thru a marker, if not just mop it

 

^^^

PROPS

DO.IT.

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you can make your own coal by wrapping dry wood chunks in foil and cooking them at high heat.

 

i used to make artists charcoal like that with twigs. just wrap them up real air tight and throw them in the fire.

 

thats tight, how long do you keep them in? and do they get charcoalized(lol) all the way through?

 

and has anyone tried using that road line paint they have at lowes?

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i get my charcoal from charcoal pencils that you can get from office supply stores

cut it open with a box cutter or exacto knife and use a pestle and mortar to grind it up

or you if you dont have one you can cut it up really fine with the box cutter/exacto knife

 

i found out the other day that titanium dioxide is useful if you want to make your ink/paint whiter. it can be in pure white powder form or in a liquid form which is titanium dioxide and glycerine. you can get it at places you can get it at cake shops online or if you can try and find it in craft stores.

if you do put the liquid form and it has glycerine in it, its gonna make your paint take longer to dry and it will probly make it not stain as hard.

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for the twig method, i have used twigs about as big around as a pencil and made sure they were dry/dead first. wrap them in like 3 layers, and then shove them in the coals the next time you fire up the BBQ or like in the fireplace. when the coals are cool enough to pick it out with ur hands, it is ready.

 

it chars it all the way through, and as long as you wrap it tight, it comes out black only, no white burnt parts. if you are getting white ashy parts, apply a moisturizing lotion like neutrogena, or just wrap the foil tighter.

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i was just joking about the hand lotion btw... didnt know if you would catch that. hahaha

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is the shit that comes in a woodcraft worth using or not? i tried searching but just got people talking about putting different shit in... id just try it but i dont wanna juice the nib and ruin it if it sucks. i tried to open it up just to look and some spilled on the side, and i could just like chip it off so im guessin its a no, figured id ask anyway. oh and is there a paint thinner that wont make your mops look like they just ate a warhead? ive just been using the cheap shit that says "paint thinner" and if i let it sit for a day or two all the paint will dissappear and itll be all fucked

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id say its about as good as the shit that comes in a kiwi,

itll last through rain, but buff will get it.

it leaves a little ghost, doesnt fade too bad.

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my friend tried to put linseed oil in his ink,and it work good,it leave a nice ghost when you use it,the ink by itself leave a ghost and the linseed oil leave a ghost that look like oil... its pretty good

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thats retarded. linseed oil is a binder, a medium, not an additive.

you use it to suspend pigments in oil based PAINT, not ink.

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i know that...but it really work,it leave a ghost on the doors...not a purple ghost but more like a candle you rub aginst the door and with the sun it melt

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This is for sure posted somewhere in here but to avoid dumb-ass posts from lazy people who won't search, therefore leaving us in a loop of ink knowledge I'll post it again if you want acrylic because of the wide varity of colors it comes in, mix up some white oil-based paint with however much of whatever you use to thin out your paint, then add artists' oil paint that is pretty thick and comes in a tube,watever color you want and however much you want to get the color you need.

 

(for dumb-asses who couldn't understand that)

 

 

THIS:

 

SRPreGwhHpL.jpg

 

PLUS THIS:

 

01012-1007-3ww-l.jpg

 

AND THIS:

 

 

wnuswocgrp09.jpg

 

 

EQUALS(=) THIS:

 

 

 

web08.jpg

 

JNB003ART-tag1.jpg

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thats ghetto junobo not acrylic. acrylic is water based, just mix water and tube paint.

but yea ghetto junobo is better anyways, cept it fuxs your mops sometimes

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thats ghetto junobo not acrylic. acrylic is water based, just mix water and tube paint.

but yea ghetto junobo is better anyways, cept it fuxs your mops sometimes

 

jesus..

 

I just posted a way around water and "those tubes" a more permanent version and you're still bringing it back.

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lol you said if you want acrylic do this...thats not acrylic

 

I meant if you wanted to use acrylic due to the colors it comes in,use this more perminant recipe.

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