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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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  • 4 weeks later...
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  • 5 months later...

anyone know of something to put in paint to make it bleed though buff paint and does putting multiple solvents in a paint recipe help against the buff.  The one shop near me makes this stuff called mutt ink which it smells like acetone, xylene and mineral spirits, the shit is hard af to buff it bleeds through paint and runs through markers but idk what could make paint so hard.  im also an idiot so that may be part of my problem

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/1/2017 at 8:45 AM, Dirty_habiT said:

Hydroflouric acid will etch glass. I do not take any responsibility for you fucking yourself up trying to mess with this nasty acid. If you get arrested for etching glass, not my problem.

 

I will give you one warning though and that's that if you dilute it, it will not cause an acid burn on your skin immediately but it will absorb into your skin immediately and start depleting calcium from your body. This is some die in your sleep 10 hours later from not being careful or damage to your bones that will never heal itself. I highly suggest you read the MSDS on this acid before deciding it's something you want to do. I know glass etch is controversial so you know, go fuck up someone else's city with it, not your own blabh blahblabh.

You'll most likely not die in your sleep.  The manner in which the shit fucks with your nervous system is one of the most excruciatingly painful things in existence according to everything I've ever read.  

If you need to use etch for whatever reason, go grab one of the Sodium / Ammonium Fluoride based ones instead.  They're not as fast-acting, but we didn't even use etch to do actual glass etching in the shop I worked at.  That's why sandblasters exist.  Seriously. 

 

If you don't want to take my word for it, compare and contrast USC's guide for working with HF:

https://ehs.usc.edu/files/SOP-Hydrofluoric-Acid.pdf

Quote

Hydrogen fluoride (HF) and its liquid form, hydrofluoric acid, are among the most dangerous chemicals in laboratories.  Before you start working with hydrofluoric acid, consult with a Chemical Hygiene Officer and register with the Chemical Safety Program for highly toxic/dangerous substances. 

...

  • Hydrofluoric acid can produce very painful and life threatening tissue burns, but its critical harmful effect comes from the action of the fluoride (F-), not acid burn.

  • Initially, an HF burn may not be obvious like a usual painful acid burn, but fluoride ion from HF forms such a strong bond to Ca 2+ in bones.  It reaches to bones and leaches calcium from bones and may tie up calcium in nerve cell.  This disruption of nerve conduction leads to very painful burns after a latent period and can be life threatening when disrupting a heart function.

  • In high concentration (more than 50%), HF usually causes immediate burns that are extremely painful and slow to heal.  In lower concentration, exposure may not be apparent for several hours, but can still cause burns and further damage if not washed off and treated.

  •  

Etc...  washing it off will not help you, you need to smear yourself with more chemicals and get to a hospital, put a sign up saying you're working with HF specifically, and make sure somebody knows what you're handling so they can get your ass to the hospital when your nervous system shuts down. 

 

...with their guide on working with shit that spontaneously explodes / catches fire:

https://ehs.usc.edu/files/SOP-Reactive-Explosive.pdf

 

Quote

All procedures involving reactive/explosive materials must have engineering controls in place (e.g., fume hood with blast shield, inert atmosphere chamber, or other suitable protective equipment) to guard against runaway reactions and protect against hazardous exposure.

They go on with heavy gloves suitable for chemical, use your judgement on whether a spill is too large to clean up yourself, etc.  They don't repeatedly warn you about how much it will hurt if your hand is blown off by some messed up spontaneously explosive mixture, because they reserve that warning for HF. 

 

That's the end of my public service announcement for the day.  ? 

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Yep I was apprehensive about even purchasing it.  I needed it to do etching for some painting I was doing on metal/porcelain surfaces.... and i still have over half a gallon of the stuff.  It's concentrated too.  I bought special, very heavy gloves made specifically to have resistance to this acid before ever even opening the cap on it.

 

  I definitely tried to find other means of doing the same job (etching metal in preparation for surface coating) as fast as HF does it..... but there's not really much.  In any case, it is as you mentioned very very very nasty shit that is not to be messed with if you're someone that is prone to making mistakes or not researching things and understanding them extensively before diving in head first.

 

Please be careful.

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  • 10 months later...
On 7/23/2018 at 9:42 AM, RASKY said:

anyone know of something to put in paint to make it bleed though buff paint and does putting multiple solvents in a paint recipe help against the buff.  The one shop near me makes this stuff called mutt ink which it smells like acetone, xylene and mineral spirits, the shit is hard af to buff it bleeds through paint and runs through markers but idk what could make paint so hard.  im also an idiot so that may be part of my problem

Any dyes that dissolve in Acetone, xylene or MEK can be added to oil based paint for bleed thru. Oil based woodstain also works, bitumen will work, raven oil will work, magic ink and oil based shoe dye will do the job. Essentially anything that stains which has an oil base or a solvent that dissolves in oil for a base will work. I use a bitumen based recipe for my black GK and its a bitch to buff and stains and bleeds through but it's completely weather resistant like paint. 

But woodstain is probably easier. 

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On 9/17/2018 at 3:15 PM, hotsauceinthedickholewastaken said:

Anyone know if Trade Secret Pro Leather Restore kits have leather dye that will work. Can't find the stuff mentioned in the thread already.

 

Yeah it will definitely work its just about what it will mix with. I think I've read somewhere it's Oil based, so it'll mix with xylene based pilot ink, potassium permanganate in acetone, woodstain, oil based paints etc too which is pretty sweet. 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...
On 9/19/2019 at 2:31 PM, msk_gz said:

wasup fam

 

I am considering testing this liquid degreaser as corrosive property in my recipes. It is a chemical used in engine cleaning. Does anyone know if it works well?

DBFB73D5-403B-492C-BC36-35BB20DF5337.JPG

I wouldn't expect this to work well if it's just engine degreaser, that stuff is meant to be destructive against grease but not paint or anything else (specifically for that reason, imagine cleaning your engine and half the paint comes out of the engine bay).

 

You might have more luck with brake fluid, brake fluid WILL eat paint. With that said though, I've tried to perfect a brake fluid recipe and it has never worked all that great. The ink fades after like a year and a half in the elements and the stain isn't enough to make it worth it.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/16/2005 at 10:37 PM, bumsuckfun said:

i was suggesting a ferriic-chloride based edinburg etch (metal etch) ink recipe on bombingscience. anyone ehere know much about that stuff? (if you don't know much about chemistry, than don't bother mentioning anything)

This is the oldest mention of Edinburgh Etch I can find as it pertains to graffiti. Unfortunately can't yet track down the original source on BS... Answer is 4:1 Ferric Chloride Solution to Citric Acid Solution. https://www.nontoxicprint.com/etchcopperandbrass.htm

Edited by BERZ-ACAB
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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone still modify graffiti brand ink? Like when you get Grog BPI ink do you guys just leave it stock or do you add stuff / evaporate and replace the solvent etc or just leave it as is? I leave Grog, Molotow, OTR and other good quality ink brands as they are but I mix MTN Street Ink with engineer's fluid or leather dye and evaporate some of the alcohol and replace it with MEK. What do you guys do? Need to keep this place active. 

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  • 4 months later...

is this shit dead or what ? remeber being on here 10 years ago as a teenager

 

planning to make ink cause its impossible to find garvey at a good price anywhere

and mefians cost $40 to ship to NY

 

so

 

100 blue pens

100 red pens

4oz feibings pro leather dye red

4oz feibings pro leather dye blue

8oz purple pvc primer

and some grog booster stain to top it off

 

i was wondering if its worth it to throw some sharpies in there like a pack of 12 of blue and red

 

should i take out the pvc primer and just leave it as just the pens and leather dye 

 

any feedback would be appreciated

 

 

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2 minutes ago, tha whut said:

i was going to use the pvc primer as a extra stainer and use it in place of rubbing alcohol to thin the ink down

Id never thought of it, but I bet you could save a lot of time and just fill a mop with the primer. Thats some nasty shit. Rest in peace your whole leg pants and shoe if that jank ever blows open in your pocket. Lol.

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On 3/7/2021 at 11:49 PM, mr.yuck said:

Id never thought of it, but I bet you could save a lot of time and just fill a mop with the primer. Thats some nasty shit. Rest in peace your whole leg pants and shoe if that jank ever blows open in your pocket. Lol.


 

Reading this reminds me of a 10+ years ago when I passed out with this chick after a party and the mop in my pocket exploded and got all over her dress and legs. She was stained for days on end. Never explained to her what it was. She was pretty stupid.

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  • 1 month later...

Best bet is still and always going to be: Molotow Speedflow or Coversall with a dash of additive (you can buy it now on most graffiti sites) ... after 20 years of tagging and mixing and mastering ink shit, really... we are in the best era ever for readymade killer inks. The more it stains, the less light fast it will be, and if you live in a rainy ass area like Vancouver or Seattle, the best bet will always be paint. Ive used all the inks buyable & rackable and at the end of the day, the truth is that Molotow wins for whats left of decent inks if you’re not a mad chemist. This thread is golden though, and if you’re an inkhound like me; everything you need to know is right here in this post. No cap. 

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  • 5 months later...

I may speak for nothing since this topic is dead but I read a lot of nonsense about inks.

Many talk about adding fish oil (why not tarama) or brake fluid (it's just bad on the paint of cars, it starts to blister) (decades of idiots who mix fish oil and brake fluid, it gets tiring).
To make a short explanation:

Alcohol-based inks mix with each other.
oil-based paints mix with each other.
the two are different therefore each boxing in its category.
Don't start mixing alcohol-based ink with oil paint and fish oil with brake fluid because even the creator in all his goodness and selflessness can only deny you.
It's like that.

Know that what makes the strong point of inks or paints are pigments and dyes. The more there is, the more it is opaque or leaves traces.
It's as simple as that.

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9 hours ago, BERZ-ACAB said:

Vous avez vu le nouveau dripmop Mud Mark d' Infamy Art ? C'est une encre "à base d'argile". Vous pensez qu'ils ne font que dissoudre FIMO/Sculpey dans une encre à colorant comme Mefians ou OTR Flowpen Ink ? Ou peut-être en utilisant « l'argile liquide » ? En tout cas, je me demande si la « argile » ajoute une quelconque résistance aux UV…

They say clay is good for the skin ... ^^

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  • 3 months later...

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