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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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DUDE "ACER91" AND OTHERS WHO SAY FISH OIL AND BRAKE FLUID DO NOTHING ARE WRONG I AM A STUDYING CHEMIST. BRAKE FLUID CONTAINS A FEW ACIDS IN IT THAT WILL AWAY AT VARNISH AND PAINT THEREFORE LETTING YOUR INK OR DYE SEEP INTO THE SURFACE FURTHER. NOW ABOUT ME PROMOTING A WEBSITE MY BAD. NOW IF YOU WANNA KEEP BITCHING AND COMPLAINING ABOUT GO AHEAD. ILL TYPE IN CAPS ALL I WANT YOU FUCKEN PUNK. ILL HAVE MY TYPOS ALL I WANT. YOU CAN FUCK OFF MY INK IS LEGITIMENT. TALK SHIT ALL YOU WANT BUT WHOS THE ONE DOING SHIT?!

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I'd first like to laugh at your use of "legitiment." Ha Ha, illiteracy at its finest.

 

 

And if you are a "studying chemist," does that mean you decided to take Chemistry 101 at your local community college? And what are these acids in brake fluid that "away at varnish and paint"? If you cannot give this information, then nobody will believe you, give you respect, or buy your ink.

 

 

Also, using spray paint to see if your ink will bleed through is not a good way to show how powerful your ink is. If you want to show your ink is powerful, use a heavy primer, and then several layers of heavy oil based paint. This is what is used by people who buff ink.

 

 

I am also confused as to why you would choose sharpie ink to put in your mix. Have you ever tried buffing sharpie ink? It is not permanent at all, and it fades in the sun as well. I do not see your logic in taking a terribly weak ink and mixing it to a pen ink that can be very strong... Logically, wouldn't a weak ink mixed with a strong ink make the strong ink weaker?

 

 

Also, your use of Methylene Blue is not as efficient as it should be. The type you get in pet store is firstly a water based substance. That mix will not mix well with your already alcohol based ink. The proper and most powerful form of MB that you can use comes in a powder form, and you do not need anywhere near the amount of 12 ounces.

 

 

 

The reason you have received such a hostile reaction in this thread is because you have presented a recipe that proves you have not read more than a half of page of this thread. People who invest time in this thread are insulted by your ignorance and lack of general knowledge about inks, chemistry, and this website. Either change your attitude and your "I'm-better-than-you" cadence, or leave.

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To start I have read over 3/4's of this thread. Yes I am studying chemistry 101 and chemical science engineering. I cannot name all of the acids found in brake fluid, but boric acid and radiacid are a couple. There are also "fatty acids" found in dot three brake fluid. As far as my attitude goes I am not coming in here with a "im better than you" type of "cadence" as you say. I am open to any knowledge that someone wants to drop but I won't take bullshit. Sharpie ink actually contains several different dyes that when comined with glycol and other things in "pen ink" a chemical reaction happens to where it unifies and becomes a very good ink persae. Actually krink uses a basic sharpie ink with a couple more things added in there dye based mops. Also the ink in a sharpie magnum is quite different than a regular sharpie. It actually is probably somewhat of a good ink. Now on to that methylene blue. Yes the methylene blue you buy in pet stores is 1% or lower. Even though it is 1% or lower it is still a good additive and will mix with alcohol very well maybe not some of the other solvents I have listed (my bad). Now another "my bad" was saying 12 ounces, I meant 1 to 2 ounces. When methylene blue is in powder form you usually get it in %82 or lower (now thats the bomb shit). Now since everyone thinks my grammar is horrible, I tried to type this a little better.

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I just really don't see how you attribute the several acids you claim to be in brake fluid to eat away at varnish and paint, or for any fact of the matter, be corrosive at all. Brake fluid contains many bases that are additives whose only purpose is to be "corrosion inhibiters," essentially negating any acidic effects that would in theory be present in brake fluid because of the acids such as boric acid, which I will add is one of the weakest acids in existence. And as far as fish oil goes, fatty acids are not in any way going to add a "corrosive" element to your ink.

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no, it really doesnt. fish oil and brake fluid have been scientifically proven not to do jack shit for ink recipes.

 

if James (who actually has a working ink recipe) got banned for promoting his site, then you (who doesnt have a ink recipe worth the bottle its put in) need to be perma banned.

 

ive payed my dues, ive posted my recipes, ive helped where helps needed. your first post was in all caps posting some recipe thats been proven false and promoting your shitty ass "company", all in caps and with horrendous typos. your second post then "defends" yourself. while you ditched the caps lock you still used 3 or 4 exclamation marks after every sentence and you still used terrible spelling and grammar. which leads one to wonder, did you ever finish grade school? because your posts on 12oz and your entire website suggest you didnt.

 

so why dont you get the fuck out, close your website, drink your "ink" and go fucking die.

 

i like the way you think

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first of all, props to yeah nation coming out of knowhere with arguably the best posts on this page. im on my phone so il keep this short.

 

im studying drafting and design but that doesnt make me fucking Frank Ghery, if you really thought boric acid was helpful to a recipe then wouldnt people have been putting purer powder form boric acid found under almost every sink in america into their inks for years?? sure, you have a decent base but you completely ruin it. not to mention fishing out tampon like items from the bottom of a jar (the sharpie resevoirs) is probly the most difficult and messy thing to do with an ink. and testing the "bleedability" with spraypaint? you probly used some colorplace white for that bs test. and regarding your other inks, if you fuck up a black ink recipe this bad then theres no fucking way you can pull off a mustard yellow or even a red. i bet all there is to your yellow "ink" is yellow bucket paint and some soysauce because you probly think the "taste molecules fuse with the yellow pigments" or some crazy ass story. now if you want some credibility rewrite you entire website, this time using spellcheck, delete your crip "cuz's" comments, delete your 12oz account, re-read this thread while sober, steal some black pens from your miller mott ass school and start over.

 

so much for keeping it short.

and yeahnation, props comin your way

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this ink thread sucks

for the guy talking about methylene blue

alcohol and water mix dumbass

what do you think the rest of 91 percent isopropyl is...

or vodka

and with mb from pet stores is good just watery

evaporate till there are crystals

and since mb isnt soluable in alchohol add just enough water to make it

an aquaos solution then add it to your ink

 

krink does not use sharpies

sharpie ink does not react with glycols asshole

 

and breakfluid and fish oil does not have any corrosive effect on varnis

so why do people use it?

It slows the drying time to help the ink sink in

if anybody says it doesnt work is retarded

why do you think wood stain or shoe dye takes so long to dry

to sink in the surface

 

hows that for a first post?

 

btw acrilic is permanent and not water soluable when dry

they paint houses with it

so use it

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Hahaha you amuse me. This recipe I have posted is not what i sell. Its funny you guys talk all this bs because you pay for account here on 12oz. I didn't say boric acid was corrosive, infact I didn't say any of the acids I listed were corrosive. You ask what were some acids found in dot 3 brake fluid and I responded off the top of the dome. Now back to my paint! If you want to know how its made read the description underneath the photo of the bottle.

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Give repsect where respect is due street you can't come into here and be all like blah blah I know more just because I sell ink because the fact is some of the cats you're argueing with have been here for awhile and have been in the game for awhile and have some reasonably respected opinions in my opinion at least. You got shit on nobody here. Also if you don't like the "bs" people talk on here because they pay for an account run off to BS.

 

Whats a good portion to mix pp with acetone? anybody?

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see street, if you you actually lurked on this site like everyone is supposed to before they post youd know you can get over a years worth of "VIP" with just a few clicks and some screenshots...

 

nobody said what you posted is what you sell. but if you post bullshit recipes like that and stand behind your "logic", your other recipes are going to be just as dumb because if your other recipes arent based on the same false logic then you wouldnt even think of posting a recipe that is based on false logic.

 

and no, not "back to your paint" you pretentious dick, nobody gives a damn about your shit recipes and you need to stop sucking your own dick. nobody wants to hear what you have to say.

littlechance5.jpg.9ffc65e340732b0c005378d8c8446d65.jpg

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Now on to this fuck who is calling me an asshole. Krink's dye based markers are plain shit. They use the essential ingredients found in sharpies. If you want to believe otherwise well go ahead. But dont start talking when you have no say so!

 

yes

everything made by krink sucks

just because they use a key ingreadent doesnt mean he used sharpies he doesnt even make his ink

he gets it from arrowmark

and they dont react with glycols

all glycols do is retard the drying time

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Check it so you grab like 9 pack of crayola washables and take the thing tht holds the ink out (best if you use all dif colors) then put sum rubbing alc in sumthing pref 40% or lower an let tht shit sit for a night an you'll have a super hard staining all buff resistant ink oh yah throw some dot.3 in that shit too yo.

 

Haha I crack myself up

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