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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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anyone tried using acetone as a base for inks ?

 

i have easy access to it at work may just try it out :S

 

 

also anyone tried texas markers inks??

 

TexpenGrp.jpg

 

these?

 

if so, its not really ink. its just really permanent paint. they're perfect for writing on the ground, the flow is kinda wierd to get use to... its not so much a pump marker - it works similar to universal caps that get fatter the harder you press on them.

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> probably nothing pp or gv couldnt do.

> and its got some emo kid name.

 

Probably? So you don't actually know?

 

As someone who does know: it stains way better harder than potassium p. and comes in black too. Its industrial strength dye for making permanent ink mixed with plastic dye - its going to stain harder than pond cleaner lol

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its more the rain thats a problem in the UK :P thanks for your help man .

 

and texas markers

 

 

think its water based, kids use it to make posters for school, it comes with a weird felt brush,

 

might be a good source for felt, but i dont think the ink is good, that website has almost no info so i cant say for shur,but thats my best guess

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> probably nothing pp or gv couldnt do.

> and its got some emo kid name.

 

Probably? So you don't actually know?

 

As someone who does know: it stains way better harder than potassium p. and comes in black too. Its industrial strength dye for making permanent ink mixed with plastic dye - its going to stain harder than pond cleaner lol

 

its just a chemical stainer, renamed and repacked. pond cleaner is most likely the same thing just watered down, you can get the same thing from a chemical supply store for way cheaper.

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> its just a chemical stainer, renamed and repacked. pond cleaner is most likely the same thing just watered down, you can get the same thing from a chemical supply store for way cheaper.

 

im sorry - a chemical stainer? a chemical that stains? what else what it be?

 

your local "chemical supply store"? yes they will obviously sell plastic dye... lol

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> its just a chemical stainer, renamed and repacked. pond cleaner is most likely the same thing just watered down, you can get the same thing from a chemical supply store for way cheaper.

 

im sorry - a chemical stainer? a chemical that stains? what else what it be?

 

your local "chemical supply store"? yes they will obviously sell plastic dye... lol

 

if your gunna be a smart ass, atleast make sense. and there is a thing, it says "QUOTE" at the bottom of every post, you should try it,

 

 

yes chemical supply, where do you think YOUR high school gets all of the chemlad shit.

 

and gen violet is a stain, used in labs for makring and staining parts of what they are working on, it happens to stain plastic, it is not a plastic stainer.

 

why so many? do you really not know what chemical stainer is?

?

?

 

 

i dont even know what your trying to say, why are you sticking up for a stainer dumb shit, just cuz your dumb enuf to buy it,and now feel stupid for paying 13+shipping for somthing i get in higher quality for half the price.

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so i just cooked up a brew of some tubes of speedball printing ink, "charbonnel" black covering varnish, mineral spirits, and pine wood stain..

don't get on my back about random ingredients, i was racking everything black and oil based at pearl.

ANYWAY

my question: i checked on a hand of mine i did in it yesterday and it looks great, but its thick like oil pastel on the surface and it comes off a bit on my finger like its always kind of greasy. i love the consistency for drips and all, and i want to retain it if i can, but i want it to dry more flat on the surface like a thinner ink would.. how would i go about doing that?

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werd bro.. if you are quoting pp and gv and shit you obviously know something - but trust - this shit is lethal bizzle. this is a cut above fucking the rest of the muppets in here talking about adding fucking brake fluid and random shit they steal from hicks hardware. keep arguing if you want..

 

anyway bro, if you think just because it is a stainer, it has to be pure pp or gv or something there are 1000s of different chemical dyes/pigments dyes/plastic dyes/acid dyes... this shit is blended in the uk - we know how to stain.

 

PEACE

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dont call me bro, i know more than you, thats established,

 

i didnt quote anything,that just happens to be what the violet color is.

 

but buy all means keep feeding the ppl at bombingscience, ill keep stealing ever single thing you waits your lunch money on.

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Im not going to lie. I personally dont want you to tell us that this shit is mad hard staining ink. And i dont want you to advertise this shit. But it is the ink thread. So i want to know exactly how it works with the inks and post pictures of the stuff buffed and what not. I personally dont feel like wasting money just to find out something that might be nothing more that pp or gv or mb. So quit advertising it and just show us how the shit works and why it is so good.

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I only use uni type body markers. Just due to the metal body for the chemicals i like in my inks. Krink is my favorite, once your done just fill it up with your own toxins.

 

I mad a delicious fucking inside recipe.

1/2 Blue mixed with Red Pen ink to give a nice purple for the base (pen ink in my experiece is great on metal)

 

1/4 Pvc Primer for a staining additive and for corroding paint with its Xylene (PVC primer stains plastic surfaces like Bathroom wall kinda stuff. Insides sometimes have that same texture)

 

1/4 Garvey to make it more purplish and delicious (you just can't go wrong with garvey.)

 

 

And all i have to say is i saw that shit after the buff. And it was the sickest ghost i have ever seen.

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TexpenGrp.jpg

 

these?

 

if so, its not really ink. its just really permanent paint. they're perfect for writing on the ground, the flow is kinda wierd to get use to... its not so much a pump marker - it works similar to universal caps that get fatter the harder you press on them.

 

I use dalos(way similar to this texas marker) and theyre great. they take a while to dry, but they really give the buff a hard time, I havent had em remove it from bathrooms without removing the paint it was written on. and oh yes, works wonders on brick and concrete.

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check his page i think he is world wide now. but im starting to sound like i work for him!

 

straight ox blood lincoln leather dye did not stain a painted metal door AT ALL

 

and my feibings and ben ink navy blue mix never fully dried even 24 hours latter i could still wipe some of it of of plastic. and no stain at all eather.

 

but my mr.black, black lincoln and pen ink mix left a nice stain when i remember to bring my phone ill flick it for ya.

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I only use uni type body markers. Just due to the metal body for the chemicals i like in my inks. Krink is my favorite, once your done just fill it up with your own toxins.

 

fuck yes, i refilled a bleed thru blue with oink ink when it was getting low. (about 1/4 krink, 3/4 oink). And, I watched it trying to get buffed for a couple days until they just painting the door blue and you can still see it. I'll post pics later.

 

oink is fuckin dope.

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so i just cooked up a brew of some tubes of speedball printing ink, "charbonnel" black covering varnish, mineral spirits, and pine wood stain..

don't get on my back about random ingredients, i was racking everything black and oil based at pearl.

ANYWAY

my question: i checked on a hand of mine i did in it yesterday and it looks great, but its thick like oil pastel on the surface and it comes off a bit on my finger like its always kind of greasy. i love the consistency for drips and all, and i want to retain it if i can, but i want it to dry more flat on the surface like a thinner ink would.. how would i go about doing that?

 

all speedball printing ink that i have ever seen is water based

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