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Originally posted by OMEN TWO

I heard piss works pretty well as a thinner, if you are mixing stuff up instead of just getting good ink that is already made to bomb with.

i guess you missed the part about needing cheap materials. im not like you, i dont have a job that affords me the luxury of mail ordering primo shit.

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Originally posted by macksimum

i guess you missed the part about needing cheap materials. im not like you, i dont have a job that affords me the luxury of mail ordering primo shit.

 

Whats up brother.

I'm sorry, I should not have wrote that stuff. It was not directed to you or anyone. I was just writing a goof...thats all.

 

No hard feelings OK.

 

Peace.

 

-Dave

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If I make homemade krink and let it sit for a while,(maybe a month tops) will it go bad? Will the ingredients seperate that much? Because I made a load and it sat for a few months and I tried it and it was no good like last month. I think I added too much mineral spirits though. Because I have a perfect batch of krink but I'm unsure of when I'll get to use it and want to know if it will be good.

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Originally posted by ODS-1

If I make homemade krink and let it sit for a while,(maybe a month tops) will it go bad? Will the ingredients seperate that much? Because I made a load and it sat for a few months and I tried it and it was no good like last month. I think I added too much mineral spirits though. Because I have a perfect batch of krink but I'm unsure of when I'll get to use it and want to know if it will be good.

 

 

it will get thicker, paint thinner evaporates, even when its in a sealed container

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Originally posted by ODS-1

And to someone who said add 1 third thinner to the paint, isn't that a little much?

i said way less than 1/3 thinner to paint. so yes, youre right. a third is too much. i know thats vague, but its because all of my mixtures are slight approximations. also ive found it varies depending on the brand of thinner, paint (even though you should just be using rusto), etc.

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Guest sneak

somewhere in the thread omen was chatting about how to store your mop. as i found out last night he was right.

i kept my mop with purple corio in side my record bag as i went off to do a dj set at a party. it must have got battered as when i went to use it later on (albeit i was pissed off my face and reckless) i hit a few reaches and the fucker just exploded on me. the sponge part of the nib came off (it was a "skuff coat" bottle) and ink just seemed to leap out.

 

what i found out this morning was the extent of the damage...my hands were completely purple, as is the left side of my beige jacket which is quite bait i think. anyone got any ideas as to how to get it off the jacket?

 

RE-READ EVERYTHING!!!

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Originally posted by sneak

somewhere in the thread omen was chatting about how to store your mop. as i found out last night he was right.

i kept my mop with purple corio in side my record bag as i went off to do a dj set at a party. it must have got battered as when i went to use it later on (albeit i was pissed off my face and reckless) i hit a few reaches and the fucker just exploded on me. the sponge part of the nib came off (it was a "skuff coat" bottle) and ink just seemed to leap out.

 

what i found out this morning was the extent of the damage...my hands were completely purple, as is the left side of my beige jacket which is quite bait i think. anyone got any ideas as to how to get it off the jacket?

 

RE-READ EVERYTHING!!!

 

 

^^that happened to one of my mops too. why does it happen and how do i prevent it?

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Guest sneak
Originally posted by can of worms

corio is never coming off your clothes mate :(

 

long ting. well, hopefully it wont be cold enough to rock a parka soon...

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I did some tests on various inks and I found out what I basically knew already. I had a few markers/mops and a can of Rusto in my knapsack and went into the projects across the street from my mom's house in Manhattan. I did a few tags with Garvey and Marsh Dye Type Ink. I did a few tags with Krink ink and Krink type ink and I did a few tags with Paint Markers and some in spray paint. I did these tags on a smooth wall in a stairwell that was enamel painted and on the elevator door...I knew my tags were going to get buffed within a few days of tagging them. Here is what happened. They had no problem removing the paint type ink and they had no problem removing the Rusto. But, they could not get rid of the dye type ink...The Garvey left serious ghosting stains, the drips went to the floor and the ink dripped on the floor and it was absorbed by the gray painted floor and the red painted door on the elevator.

So, everything was buffed except for the dye type ink. It seeped into the painted surface. I also tagged on this plastic sign in the lobby and it did not come off but the paint marker was wiped off, the Garvey stayed.

 

They just sprayed the tags with anti vandal type spray it seems.... and wiped the paint type tags right off...all of the Dye type ink did not get buffed at all.

Then I went back to bomb the building again and The dye type tags were painted over and it did nothing. You could read the tag as clear as day under the paint.

On the red elevator door I used Violet Garvey and black marsh...they were able to get most of the marsh off...but marsh is good and will not fade outdoors like most regular ink...it has got an opaque likeness to it...so different inks are good for different things..

In the stair well, I used red garvey and, and after they tried to buff it they then used gray paint to go over the red Garvey tags...It stood out in spitethey painted over it.

Anything that was paint based was buffed like water with the spray they used. The Dye type ink rules!

There is no doubt about it!:king:

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Originally posted by sneak

somewhere in the thread omen was chatting about how to store your mop. as i found out last night he was right.

i kept my mop with purple corio in side my record bag as i went off to do a dj set at a party. it must have got battered as when i went to use it later on (albeit i was pissed off my face and reckless) i hit a few reaches and the fucker just exploded on me. the sponge part of the nib came off (it was a "skuff coat" bottle) and ink just seemed to leap out.

 

what i found out this morning was the extent of the damage...my hands were completely purple, as is the left side of my beige jacket which is quite bait i think. anyone got any ideas as to how to get it off the jacket?

 

RE-READ EVERYTHING!!!

 

Plus, you never use those toy foam rubber nibs....get a chalk board eraser and take a strip and fold it in half and shove it in the opening of your mop...if the strip is too narrow than put another strip in between the fold...but, one folded eraser nib should do it...also, if you feel it will fall into the container ....take a nail and put it in the fold and clip just enough so it over laps the opening of your mop...this will prevent the nib from going in your mop...but, if you get the ultra wide erasers, you can trim it so it fits in the opening and it will be wide on top...too wide for it to slip in the container...always go with a felt type eraser for a nib...there is nothing better....I should not be telling you these things...because I tend on selling the best mop you ever thought existed on ebay...but, below is a tip on what to use for the nib...just take a strip fold it and shove it in your mop...that simple.

And always keep your mops UPRIGHT ALWAYS!

 

SLIM TYPE ERASER...NARROW STRIPS

http://www.misterart.com/grouppix/528x352/2000/g2500.jpg'>

 

WIDE TYPE ERASER...WIDE STRIPS...the best kind

http://www.misterart.com/grouppix/528x352/7000/g7898.jpg'>

 

Get both type for your different needs and different size mops.

You need the right kind of container to make the mop and forget about bingo markers and shoe polish containers...those are kind of toy.

 

GET YOUR ERASERS HERE AT MR. ART

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Guest sneak

omen, ive been looking for those type erasers over here in london, but without luck. personally, i really like the shape of the nib on the original mop. the roundness of it etc...

i think if i go on to make another mop (not feeling them as much now!) ill be aware of storage and ill put a piece of cloth over the nib.

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Originally posted by sneak

omen, ive been looking for those type erasers over here in london, but without luck. personally, i really like the shape of the nib on the original mop. the roundness of it etc...

i think if i go on to make another mop (not feeling them as much now!) ill be aware of storage and ill put a piece of cloth over the nib.

 

I guess it is understandable to like that sponge type nib, if you never used a felt strip eraser nib. Foam will fall apart in a few days. But, once you go with the felt type eraser strips...you will never go back to foam again. The felt lasts forever. It writes on every surface, the ink flows very good and you do not have to press down on it to get the ink out it just flows out.

If you used one, you would see a HUGE difference in your tags. They will be neat straight, fat and drippy, writes on anything and won't make a mess on your hands.

Also, to refill simply take the nozzle/eye-dropper and put in between the nib and the container and your mop will be filled in no time...no mess...no gloves needed.

And you will have very fat drippy tags.

 

I posted the link for the erasers above. Because, you really can't get these type of erasers at any store...even here in America. Back in the days. We just took them from school. But, they don't seem to make them like the ones shown above. So, they are really old skool. I have used all types of markers, nibs, etc.; in the last 25 years of my tagging career and the eraser nib is the best...hands down.

If you notice it only cost about a buck and change for a 6 strip eraser on the link above.

At urban desingz they want like 3 bucks for one replacement nib for an OTR.

You just can't compare anything to these and the price is right.

 

By the way, when you say "original mop" you are simply talking about a shoe polish applicator...The mop you are using is the new generation mop...not an original. So, it is not really a mop. Being this generation really never used a real "MOP" I guess that shoe polish applicator is what you think a mop really is.

A real mop is a home made marker with a felt eraser nib, that drips with no pressure and is wide and not factory made...Those are the Original mops..Shoe polish applicators that are factory made are considered "toy-mops." An already made shoe polish applicator that has a nib that will fall apart within a few tags is not a mop brother, it will work OK...if you are only tagging on glass or something.

If you went on a serious bombing mission. Make sure you bring about 5 or 6 extra of those foam nibs. Because they will simply disintegrate.

That's just how I see it.

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Guest sneak

good call omen, your right. when i say mop i do mean the shoe polish applicator. definately never experienced or used an "original mop". damn, but you make it sound tempting to go and try and make one. however, i dont think my ink supplies could take me drained on tryouts :(

 

im going to go back to my favourite weapon of all time. the good old, simple, not mucky, sly 20mm with a nice load of purple stuff in it. lovely.

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Actually you would not lose your ink supply. In fact a shoe polish applicator is not predictable on how much ink you will use on each tag. Because, you have to press down on it...making it so you might waste more ink than you need to make a nice smooth drippy tag.

With the felt strip, you know exactly how much ink you are using per tag. Because, it requires no pressing to obtain ink.

Hence, it flows exactly the way you want it. When it is full of ink you hold it kind of upwards then as the ink runs out you hold it so the nib is juicy. You tend to loose twice as much ink with foam nibs and they don't write as smooth as felt.

The foam sometimes does not slide on alot of surfaces and sometimes it gets hooked preventing smooth lines. I know you know what I am talking about.

 

When I was a youngster and we did not have anything to bomb with. We simply walked into the drug store and got griffin shoe dye, with that foam nib. They were about 99 cents when I was using them. So, why bother stealing them? But, we stole them anyway...that buck would get us a joint of weed on the corner....Lol

 

Then we would write with them till they were empty and throw them away when the dye was finished....I guess if you got nothing else, it beats a blank.

Because, I used them when I had nothing or we ran out of ink or spray paint.

But, as I got older I was getting good money (for that time) and I always had primo shit...The graff store on Broadway sold everything you could ever dream of...if was a writers paradise.

Bombing was huge in NYC in the 70's and 80's and this store got rich selling graff supplies.

It was called Bombay...99th and Broadway. Near the 103rd street #1 train lay up:)

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Well, I tossed some Higgins Eternal (water based carbon ink) into a batch of krink. It likes to try and seperate but a quick shake fixes that. Anyway I like the way it looks, it's more of a grey/silver now. The black will seperate and form drips if tags get wet before they dry, but it seems pretty permanent otherwise. It comes out really silver on metal and rust, but darker grey on porous surfaces. Strange shit, still not sure whether I like it better with or without the Higgins.

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If I made some krink and all of the mineral spirits have evaporated out of it, would it hurt if I just poured it back into the paint bucket? Or would that ruin the rest of the paint. And for making a small amout of krink I recomend getting the little measuring thing off of the cough syrup bottles, so you can measure your paint to thinner ratio, although that can be hard to fugure out.

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TRYING TO ENHANCE HIGGINS IS LIKE TRYING TO ENHANCE WATER WITH FOOD COLORING IN IT...OR MAYBE EASTER EGG DYE.

I AM NOT TRYING TO BE A WISE GUY...BUT IT'S TRUE.

 

HIGGINS IS SIMPLY INDIAN INK....NOW I HAVE USE PLENTY OF HIGGINS THAT MADE THE TATTOOS I HAVE ON MY BODY.

WHEN I WAS IN PRISON FOR 5 YEARS. WE USED TO MAKE TATTOO GUNS USING A WALKMAN MOTOR, AN ADAPTER FOR THE POWER, A PEN TO ATTACH TO THE MOTOR AND A GUITAR STRING AS THE NEEDLE, THE GUITAR STRING WAS STRAIGHTENED AND HOOKED TO THE WHEEL OF THE MOTOR AND IT WENT THROUGH THE PEN AND WHEN THE MOTOR WAS TURNED ON THE NEEDLE/GUITAR STRING WOULD BOB UP AND DOWN REAL FAST...LIKE A SEWING MACHINE.

YOU WOULD DIP THE TIP OF THE PEN WITH THE NEEDLE COMING OUT OF THE TIP IN HIGGINS INDIAN INK AND MAKE YOUR OUTLINE OF THE TATTOO. THEN YOU WOULD USE DIFFERENT COLORS OF HIGGINS FOR YOUR TATTOO.

NOW I HAVE COOL LOOKING TATTOOS...IF YOU LOOK AT THEM THEY LOOK LIKE THEY WERE DONE AT A TATTOO GALLERY...THE TATTOOER WOULD DRAW ON YOUR TATTOO WITH A PEN AND GO OVER IT WITH THE TATTOO GUN.

FOR A FEW PACKS OF SMOKES, YOU COULD GET A $3OO TATTOO, THAT LOOKS PERFECT.

I HAVE ABOUT 12 GOOD TATTOOS ALL OVER MY BODY.

 

BUT, I COULD SEE HOW HIGGINS MIGHT TINT OR CHANGE THE COLOR OF REAL GRAFF INK.

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omen, about the different types of nibs..you said felt is a lot better and will last for ages..i have a felt nib which i got off a board wiper from school but it seems pretty weak to me..and easy to tear bits off..meaning it wouldnt last very long...maybe mine is a different type of felt...its nice though...allows quite a lot of ink out without even pressing hard....PIC OF THE NIB

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Guest sneak
Originally posted by OMEN TWO

The foam sometimes does not slide on alot of surfaces and sometimes it gets hooked preventing smooth lines. I know you know what I am talking about.

 

yeup, i know exactly what you mean!

when i talked about my ink supplies running low i meant that ive only enough left for one refill of a pen / mop or whatever so i cant afford to waste what i have. i got around to emptying the paint out of a posca, washed it out and chucked more corio in it. ive got to say, like maccy d's staff: " Im lovin it".

 

*props to omen for all the knowledge. not forgetting rubbish!-

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what kind of marker should i use a felt tip in. I really like my uni paint 30s but with the pump system i cant get the felt to work right. Like should i jam it in the marker so that it is permanently pushing on the valve? I did that before but im clumse and before i knew it i had ink all over my hands. is there any other way (im actually testing something now) or another marker i should use?

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