Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
rubbish heap

INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

Recommended Posts

Religion

 

Try to find a local chemical supplier, it's often

easier to get good grade PP/GV from them instead

of trying to find stores stocking it.

Google is your friend here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This forum is brought to you by the 12ozProphet Shop.
This forum is brought to you by the 12ozProphet Shop.
This forum is brought to you by the 12oz Shop.

9 parts gold metalic american accents oil based bucket and 1 part mineral spirits in a stamp pad eraser. that's the real shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh yeah...i've never added pot.perm. to my ink, but i add ferric nitrate to my violet xt-70 and that works extremely well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when i added potassium perm. to an ink before that shit got hot an started like boiling a little.. what did i do wrong an what should i add it to instead? what about this an leather dye?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks panakeii, I think I may have found a place locally, I'll post my results. Better than XT-70 Vilot Garvey??? I hear this is the best (potassium permanganate).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by nozaki@Oct 2 2005, 12:17 PM

oh yeah...i've never added pot.perm. to my ink, but i add ferric nitrate to my violet xt-70 and that works extremely well.

How did you come up with ferric nitrate? That's pretty clever, but dangerous. I know photographers as an etching ground for doing silver plates, but I never would have thought to add it to ink. How did you handle it safely? Was there any kind of reaction to the solvent in the ink? And, have you gotten it on your skin, if so, what happened?

 

Before anyone considers doing this, be warned- FERRIC NITRATE IN SOLUTION IS EXTREMELY TOXIC AND HIGHLY CORROSIVE. This is the MSDS for ferric nitrate in solution....bad shit. They use nitric acid to make the solution...and, NITRIC ACID WILL KILL YOU if you inhale it. Basically, all you would have to do is inhale the fumes for a couple of minutes for your lungs to hemorrhage, and you would drown in your own blood...you'd be better off playing in traffic than doing home chemistry with it. So, I don't recommend using the solution to anyone. I really don't want to hear about "some kid who died making graffiti ink he learned about on the Internet..." You could kiss 12 oz. goodbye after that, and then read about the lawsuit shortly afterward. It doesn't take much these days to wind up getting fucked in court. I work at a law firm that does nothing but defend corporate liability cases, and while I am no fan of most of their clients, reading the cases makes me realize that most Americans are litigious to a fault, even when their own stupidity is the real issue. In plain Engish, that means DON'T FUCK AROUND, JACK. In powder form, this stuff isn't as bad, but it's still a strong oxidizer so you should wear gloves, goggles and a mask as a precaution. I KNOW everyone here doesn't use etch, but let's just say, in theory of course, that you would want to keep it off of your skin. But, you know, I heard it from my cousin, who was talking to his best friend's baby momma's roommate's stepbrother's neighbor, and you know HE doesn't lie.

 

I'm gonna get off the subject here for a couple of paragraphs. Someone thanked me the other day for posting here and said he appreciated that I took the time to add useful information to the thread. (BTW, you're welcome.) There's two reasons why I do this. First, and foremost is because it finally dawned on me that there's a bunch of kids with no chemistry experience mixing toxic chemicals together out there, and the law of averages dictates that it's only a matter of time before some jackass does some jackass thing that burns his house down or lands him in the hospital. It only takes one time, people! And, I'm not cracking on anyone who has found out about this the hard way...the reason it happened is not due to malice or negligence (I hope), but plain old ignorance. Sure, we're all vandals, but burning down your house while making buff-proof ink is not gonna get you the kind of fame you want. And, I don't care how charming you think you are, just try explaining THAT one to your family or your roommates. I realize that these are worst case scenarios but I watched my friend "accidently" paint his ceiling after he heard that boiling cans reduces the pressure in them...true story. I can laugh about it now, but my first reaction when I saw his kitchen covered in red paint was to head for the fucking door. I'm sure there are plenty of stories like that out there, but you rarely see them here.

 

Also, I'm old enough now to realize that although there are rules, and everyone who ever told me how to make or do something graff-related always said, "Dude, don't tell anyone about this...", I doubt that there's going to any repercussions from me sharing what I know on a message board specifically intended for graff information. Most of those people have moved on considerably by now, and I'm sure that they wouldn't mind. Also, I want people to benefit from my experience, no matter who they are or what their motivation is. Toys need to learn somewhere, too...and, although I think the Internet shouldn't be the first place to learn from, for some kids it's their only resource. If they are willing to put the time in to learn, who cares?

 

When I started, I learned by hanging out with older writers, who explained that respecting history, developing my own style, and making the tools of the trade were all equally important, so I paid attention to every detail. One thing I learned over the past 16 years of watching the graffiti soap opera is this, though- 90% of the writers who are pushing quality and quantity in graff forward are white boys from the suburbs who could have just as easily gotten into comic books or advanced calculus if they didn't have this strange, ego-driven obsession with being good at writing on things. In other words, they're nerds, just like me, and a lot of them are too concerned with bombing and trying to keep a low profile to be thugs. Thugs tend to get noticed more, and by and large, graff thugs seem to be the ones who get caught, even though they get the best spots. Drama is certainly part of the game, but it's not something that ever impressed me as much as seeing a clean handstyle on a hot corner. And, when it's done by someone who I've never met after seeing them up consistently for years, that increases my respect for them tenfold.

 

I don't really care about competition, or understand it, either. What's the point? Who's keeping score, anyway? And, isn't beauty in the eye of the beholder? I did something like 15,000 clean tags and a hundred or so straight letters in 18 months, and got my fame on. I didn't battle anyone, really...there's plenty of walls to do your thing on if you aren't lazy. Then, one day, I stopped. I'm not sure why...motivation was part of it. I guess I said enough to get noticed and dealt with both the good and bad sides of it, and decided to move on to other things. I might make another appearance, if the spirit moves me. Who knows?

 

Well, that's it. I've definitely rambled enough for one night. But, I was meaning to say this for a while, so if you were wondering, now you know. Good night..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a lot of respect for that, you are honestly one of the chillest guys on here, i havent talked to you much... but any question ive asked youve answered, and even if it was stupid you were never rude or condescending and thats a breath of fresh air over here in the land of sarcastic pricks. So yeah, thanks. By saying you stopped..are you saying you dont write anymore, or just not like that quantity?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TeezerPHM

 

This reaction usually occurs due to the fact that

the potassium permanganate is very basic and

something in the ink you added it to is very acidic.

Acid+base == Not the best friends and will

generate heat when mixed.

 

Potassium Permanganate + Glycerine is a great combo too,

as some of the local buffers have witnessed (their

buffing solution contains a glycerine among other things).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flip- I'll PM you later once I see what I have got...I'm not at home now. It won't be straight Garvey, though, it will the mix I use, which has Garvey and about 8 other inks in it.

 

MC- No one ever quits 100%. I've gone from 30-150 tags a day to about, I don't know, 50-100 tags a month, maybe?

 

My most active period lasted six months, and I probably went out every night for three months in a row. It was insane, but I was living in a city that was pretty easy to get over in at the time..it was in a transitional period for graff, and me and about 10 others ended up kicking the door wide open. Now, it's kind of blown out...but, I'm going out a little more every day lately, so....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...oops, I was on a computer at the library, and got cut off.

 

Anyway, I can't say for sure what the future holds. I know that I am a unique case as far as most writers go...I didn't start getting up till I was 28, but I had been involved in graff in some way for half my life. So, I think I came into it knowing more than most people on the come-up. I planned my campaign out, and knew what I wanted to do and what to avoid, too. I stayed out of the scene for as long as I could, but, one day, the scene found me...soon after that, it stopped being fun. All the mystery was replaced with drama at that point, not for me so much as who I was around...cops, drugs, fights, gossip, haters, shady ex-girlfriends, jealous toys...and, so I moved on.

 

Now, I'm almost 32. I have a decent job, a great girlfriend, and finally got my own place for the first time in years. I also want to start a business soon, write a book, and work on my fine art along with comic art. Graff may have just been a sidebar, since I think I would like to get fame in other areas...but I'll always incorporate some graff into all my work. Tastefully...I mean, I'm not gonna sell t-shirts. Look here to see one of my projects. It may surprise you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by taper@Oct 4 2005, 11:40 PM

whats the best thing to use to make my marsh t grade ink more unbuffable?

 

I don't use T-grade by itself. I just use it as an additive now.

 

Even though I kind of freaked out when I first saw it, I really thought the ferric nitrate idea was on point. Before you do anything with ferric nitrate, however, read this first. It's the MSDS for ferric nitrate, and will give you an idea of what you can expect. Take it seriously, please.

 

I looked around to see if turpentine is reactive with ferric nitrate, and apparently, they use the two together for patina work- I wasn't clear on whether there's any actual mixing of the two involved, so be warned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i picked up some procolor ink today, and try to find it on the internet but they keepsaying that this company makes ink catridges (spelling) for printers. i did the smell test an its either highly alcoholic or acetone base. its pretty in the middle for consistency, maybe a little thick but just enough.its dries and seeps into surfaces a little slow and i havent tried to buff it off with goof off yet. oh yeah and what made me spend 10 bucks on 4 ounces of ink? i couldnt rack from the spot and the color is "ultraperm opaque black" so i knew it was good. any way to make it dry faster or a way to make inks seep into surfaces more? i <3 deep stains

 

and shai is a mad chill ass dude. big ups

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by shai hulud+Oct 5 2005, 06:26 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Oct 5 2005, 06:26 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-taper@Oct 4 2005, 11:40 PM

whats the best thing to use to make my marsh t grade ink more unbuffable?

 

I don't use T-grade by itself. I just use it as an additive now.

 

Even though I kind of freaked out when I first saw it, I really thought the ferric nitrate idea was on point. Before you do anything with ferric nitrate, however, read this first. It's the MSDS for ferric nitrate, and will give you an idea of what you can expect. Take it seriously, please.

 

I looked around to see if turpentine is reactive with ferric nitrate, and apparently, they use the two together for patina work- I wasn't clear on whether there's any actual mixing of the two involved, so be warned.

[/b]

 

 

besides using that toxic ass shit is there anything else? unlike other people on this board i dont wanna fuck around with shit like that when im not 100% sure what im doing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

damn shai thats crazy. you're all inventive and shit. but uh, yea im down to buy some of your ink mix. i was gonna mix all that shit together anyways. so just pm me whenever you're ready.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is kinda a half marker half ink question so im putting it here. I have a half empty mini flowpen, if i add some blue sanford roll on ink to the half flowpen ink will it flow right... i dunno if people understand my question... but yeah... thats the only way i can think of asking it... yeah.. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by TeezerPHM@Oct 5 2005, 09:25 AM

i picked up some procolor ink today, and try to find it on the internet but they keepsaying that this company makes ink catridges (spelling) for printers. i did the smell test an its either highly alcoholic or acetone base. its pretty in the middle for consistency, maybe a little thick but just enough.its dries and seeps into surfaces a little slow and i havent tried to buff it off with goof off yet. oh yeah and what made me spend 10 bucks on 4 ounces of ink? i couldnt rack from the spot and the color is "ultraperm opaque black" so i knew it was good. any way to make it dry faster or a way to make inks seep into surfaces more? i <3 deep stains

 

and shai is a mad chill ass dude. big ups

 

You're chill too....Procolor is good shit, too. I talked to my ink guy I buy from and he said it's solvent based, so go ahead and put a little Goof-off in it- three drops is enough for a pen. The cool thing (and bad thing) about Goof-off is that it's an easy way to get straight xylene, which is what a lot of perm ink is based on. So, since you have it, use it up...Japan drier is the way to go, though, since it has all the solvent you need and a drying agent as well. All paint stores carry it. All my inks come out fine, too- I used to overdo the xylene and end up with streaky-looking tags, but not anymore.

 

The pints of Procolor are super cheap, about $18 if you shop around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by MC P.@Oct 5 2005, 05:31 PM

This is kinda a half marker half ink question so im putting it here. I have a half empty mini flowpen, if i add some blue sanford roll on ink to the half flowpen ink will it flow right... i dunno if people understand my question... but yeah... thats the only way i can think of asking it... yeah.. thanks

I get your point. No, that's water based...you'll wreck the tip. Use Pilot or some kind of leather dye, and you'll be all right. Or, look around for solvent-based stamp ink.

 

Shit, I just remebered something! The Sanford blacktop ink is perm and fadeproof, but it won't mix with a lot of other perm inks since it has a phenolic base. Phenol is kind of outdated, and it isn't compatible with most other solvents. So use it by itself, or if anyone knows something that does work, I'd like to know. I killed a mop the other day not knowing this...yes, I still fuck things up, believe me.

 

This is funny to say here, but I cook a lot...and, everyone makes mistakes. I made this spanish rice the other night that needed a little more bump, so I added vegetable boullion to it...A LOT, at that. Suddenly, it went from being bland to making every single orifice on my body pucker. I think I may have hurt myself...so, I added more rice and tomatoes, and poured in some wine...I saved it, but MAN...I felt my hair grow an inch in five minutes, no shit.

 

Ink is the pretty much the same way, except I don't do taste tests with it anymore. :ballcap:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by shai hulud+Oct 6 2005, 02:50 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Oct 6 2005, 02:50 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-TeezerPHM@Oct 5 2005, 09:25 AM

i picked up some procolor ink today, and try to find it on the internet but they keepsaying that  this company makes ink catridges (spelling) for printers. i did the smell test an its either highly alcoholic or acetone base. its pretty in the middle for consistency, maybe a little thick but just enough.its dries and seeps into surfaces a little slow and i havent tried to buff it off with goof off yet. oh yeah and what made me spend 10 bucks on 4 ounces of ink? i couldnt rack from the spot and the color is "ultraperm opaque black" so i knew it was good. any way  to make it dry faster or a way to make inks seep into surfaces more? i <3 deep stains

 

and shai is a mad chill ass dude. big ups

 

You're chill too....Procolor is good shit, too. I talked to my ink guy I buy from and he said it's solvent based, so go ahead and put a little Goof-off in it- three drops is enough for a pen. The cool thing (and bad thing) about Goof-off is that it's an easy way to get straight xylene, which is what a lot of perm ink is based on. So, since you have it, use it up...Japan drier is the way to go, though, since it has all the solvent you need and a drying agent as well. All paint stores carry it. All my inks come out fine, too- I used to overdo the xylene and end up with streaky-looking tags, but not anymore.

 

The pints of Procolor are super cheap, about $18 if you shop around.

[/b]

yeah i havent used japan drier for like a year (i think), cuz that stuff is really good for krink. what i was gonna try was throwing this ink into a uni paint (black of course) but i think it will just get too thick. i should really get some japan drier again cuz goof off makes it a little hard for it to dry but it also gives it that long time to seep in. ill make something for the best of both worlds...ill gat back at you guys later....an shai dont blow up my way of makin krink on the board yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by MC P.@Oct 5 2005, 05:31 PM

Shit, I just remebered something! The Sanford blacktop ink is perm and fadeproof, but it won't mix with a lot of other perm inks since it has a phenolic base. Phenol is kind of outdated, and it isn't compatible with most other solvents. So use it by itself, or if anyone knows something that does work, I'd like to know. I killed a mop the other day not knowing this...yes, I still fuck things up, believe me.

 

 

Ive got some sanford blizzacktop, but its fuckin thick as glue.

 

They say you thin with acetone for more speed?

 

I chucked it in a liquid chalk marker and i got some crazy streaking and crappy application going on. It looked as if a pilot jumbo was on the verge of packing it in.

 

This stuff appears black when it goes into the marker, but comes out purple when applied so i just dont get it? Ive gone to racking up other shit and getting some decent scars, only using 3 things.

 

Any help on the blacktop?

 

I say keep it simple, the simple shit works best.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally posted by shai hulud+Oct 5 2005, 10:13 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Oct 5 2005, 10:13 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-MC P.@Oct 5 2005, 05:31 PM

This is kinda a half marker half ink question so im putting it here. I have a half empty mini flowpen, if i add some blue sanford roll on ink to the half flowpen ink will it flow right... i dunno if people understand my question... but yeah... thats the only way i can think of asking it... yeah.. thanks

I get your point. No, that's water based...you'll wreck the tip. Use Pilot or some kind of leather dye, and you'll be all right. Or, look around for solvent-based stamp ink.

 

Shit, I just remebered something! The Sanford blacktop ink is perm and fadeproof, but it won't mix with a lot of other perm inks since it has a phenolic base. Phenol is kind of outdated, and it isn't compatible with most other solvents. So use it by itself, or if anyone knows something that does work, I'd like to know. I killed a mop the other day not knowing this...yes, I still fuck things up, believe me.

 

This is funny to say here, but I cook a lot...and, everyone makes mistakes. I made this spanish rice the other night that needed a little more bump, so I added vegetable boullion to it...A LOT, at that. Suddenly, it went from being bland to making every single orifice on my body pucker. I think I may have hurt myself...so, I added more rice and tomatoes, and poured in some wine...I saved it, but MAN...I felt my hair grow an inch in five minutes, no shit.

 

Ink is the pretty much the same way, except I don't do taste tests with it anymore. :ballcap:

[/b]

 

 

THANKS Alot shai... im glad i didnt do it before you told me, i assumed it was alchohol based for some reason... so... anything i can add to the sanford ink to make it not... wash away in the rain... cuz i was thinking about making the bottle into a mop... and i dont like dumping out ink... thanks man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just rack up shitloads of artline 70's and 90's and pilot broad markers, then grip the bottom of the metal barrel, and squeeze it slowly making your way down to the top on the marker.

 

Make sure you've got a jar or something underneath the marker, otherwise your gonna be spilling a shitload of ink all over the place.

 

This is what i do, because pilot and artline ink are so rare here. And it pilot ink proves to be fuckin dope ink with some black woodstain and a tea or tablespoon of brake fluid every 400 mls of the mix, making it dry a little slower and making the appearance of the ink glossier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"shai dont blow up my way of makin krink on the board yet."

 

Never...that was golden, or should I say silver, advice. I'm only giving away old secrets, no current ones...and that has SO much potential. Thanks again.

 

I'm doing three things at once right now (A/D transfers, cleaning house, and cooking dinner) in addition to posting, so I'll be a little slow...there's a couple more things I want to cover here...BRB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"THANKS Alot shai... im glad i didnt do it before you told me, i assumed it was alchohol based for some reason... so... anything i can add to the sanford ink to make it not... wash away in the rain... cuz i was thinking about making the bottle into a mop... and i dont like dumping out ink... thanks man"

 

Chuck that ink, it's garbage...the ink bottle trick is in the marker section. We must be on the same page, I did that a few days ago. :ballcap:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...