shai Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 NONONONONONONO!!! It won't mix...get a mop. http://www.krink.com Do I work for these guys? No, I wish.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caffeine Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 So I stopped by in this one random items shop in chinatown and found a few 2oz bottles of sanford roll-on stamp pad, quick dry ink, but in violet. Up th that point I never came across them before, and they looked pretty old too. So i obtained and few and was wondering if anyone has experience with this ink. Stuff any good? Im only hoping its like the sanford roll-on permanent black ink. Niggas know. P.S.- Anyone got any suggestions for easily popping out those roller balls in those type of containers? I broke many things trying to get them out before. And more inportantly lost alot of of ink in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC P. Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 Yo shai, how about if i put it in a virgin leeho?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 Originally posted by MC P.@Sep 18 2005, 08:02 AM Yo shai, how about if i put it in a virgin leeho?? Quoted post You know, I've just never had much luck with Krink in anything but a mop...it dries the pen out really fast, and sometimes all that comes through the tip is solvent, and no silver. Maybe it's just me that it happens to. I'd recommend Bluepath mops over anything else. This is also my connect for these, by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 Originally posted by caffeine@Sep 18 2005, 03:14 AM So I stopped by in this one random items shop in chinatown and found a few 2oz bottles of sanford roll-on stamp pad, quick dry ink, but in violet. Up th that point I never came across them before, and they looked pretty old too. So i obtained and few and was wondering if anyone has experience with this ink. Stuff any good? Im only hoping its like the sanford roll-on permanent black ink. Niggas know. P.S.- Anyone got any suggestions for easily popping out those roller balls in those type of containers? I broke many things trying to get them out before. And more inportantly lost alot of of ink in the process. Quoted post I cut the tops all the way off with a razor, or squeeze just underneath the ball with some pliers. (That sounded bad.) It should just pop right out. Cutting it is faster, though. That Sanford shit is dope, for sure. I've had fun with it, and it's easy to find. I like how it says, "poison" right on the front, too. I just have more exotic taste, lately. I guess if you smell the violet ink, that's a big clue. If it's got good solvent, it'll let you know. Chances are better if it's old, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulek Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 is acetona a helpful supply for fast drying on alkydalic paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 Originally posted by fulek@Sep 18 2005, 03:49 PM is acetona a helpful supply for fast drying on alkydalic paint? Quoted post It may help, try japan drier for even faster drying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 whats the deal with the black krink? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 I'll post the good word here...I ordered it last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulek Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 I've made my mop with some master alkydalic gold and some alcohol for drying, so the golden paint don't cover anything... what could i add to make it "cover"? :confused2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 Here, I found this... Japan drier speeds the drying of oil based paint, enamel, and varnish. It works with tung oil to do the same. It can be found at paint stores or possibly a hardware store that has a good selection of paints. Artists also use it to speed the drying process so they can work on oil paintings faster. It has petroleum distillates, so does many ohter products as vaseline, and naphthenic salts. I took this info off the can, so beyond the fact it works I can not be of more help. I know that overnight the tung oil is dry when it would normally take a couple of days. It does not appear to change any of the qualities. Hope this helps. No alcohol, though...add more paint, use a little of the above, and that ought to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeezerPHM Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 19 2005, 07:13 PM Here, I found this... Japan drier speeds the drying of oil based paint, enamel, and varnish. It works with tung oil to do the same. It can be found at paint stores or possibly a hardware store that has a good selection of paints. Artists also use it to speed the drying process so they can work on oil paintings faster. It has petroleum distillates, so does many ohter products as vaseline, and naphthenic salts. I took this info off the can, so beyond the fact it works I can not be of more help. I know that overnight the tung oil is dry when it would normally take a couple of days. It does not appear to change any of the qualities. Hope this helps. No alcohol, though...add more paint, use a little of the above, and that ought to do it. Quoted post ive used japan drier in some krink i made and didnt notice that much of a difference.......maybe if i used some other paint thats mad o.d. that takes a couple days to try (i just used janovic chrome and yes it was oil based duh) oh yeah an the japan drier also helps thins it a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toggle Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 16 2005, 04:24 PM Stamp refill ink (Procolor, Viking) is in almost every office, and I use it all the time, with great results. The bottles can be used as a pen, too...wait, are you bombing at work? Wow, you must hate your job. Be careful, that shit has a weird way of biting you in the ass. Oh, the ink jet ink isn't too hot, btw...powder toner is a good ink additive, however. Take some home and try it out. Quoted post not quite "bombing" exactly, more just throwing up lines to test it out. and also... the powder toner. i have shit load of that here, you suggest just mixing it with ink? i tryed mixing some with water when i first found it. but that shit idnt work out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 21, 2005 Share Posted September 21, 2005 what do you guys know about: The ink not the gouache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 21, 2005 Share Posted September 21, 2005 Mix the toner with ink to flatten it (the ink). I think toner just floats on water, since water isn't enough of a solvent to break it down. Silver ink? Smell it...if it gets you high, it's good, or if it says, "xylene, toluene, flammable, danger, peligro..." Look for solvents. And, even if it's water-based... if it's free, it sure ain't a waste of money, so go nuts! I've used water based stuff before in a pinch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC P. Posted September 21, 2005 Share Posted September 21, 2005 Yo shai, you said in your recipe to use stamp ink... marketeed my viking or procolor.... how about the stanford stamp ink? Also, if i took some blue stanford stamp ink and mixed it in with a black otr htb mini thats half used... will i get a cool dark blue... or will it not mix and get all gay and gunky? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 21, 2005 Share Posted September 21, 2005 bad news about the ink, its water soluable therefore the first time it rains its gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Originally posted by MC P.@Sep 21 2005, 03:18 PM Yo shai, you said in your recipe to use stamp ink... marketeed my viking or procolor.... how about the stanford stamp ink? Also, if i took some blue stanford stamp ink and mixed it in with a black otr htb mini thats half used... will i get a cool dark blue... or will it not mix and get all gay and gunky? thanks Quoted post Hmmmmm...shit, where did you get a htb? That's what I want to know...Also... ....Why am I suddenly the only one answering questions here???? :confused: :confused: ....I guess that makes me the alpha nerd. :rolleyes: I've had problems with mixing stamp ink...The sole exception being Garvey, of course. Those little squeeze bottles are underrated pens, though. Or put it in another pen. That's too bad about the silver...does it work well for fine art stuff? I'm always looking for nontoxic metallics that cover well. Krink is bad news indoors and it's impossible to cover... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 22 2005, 12:49 AM That's too bad about the silver...does it work well for fine art stuff? I'm always looking for nontoxic metallics that cover well. Krink is bad news indoors and it's impossible to cover... Quoted post Yeh it should work alright for fine art/ indoors work.... ........alpha nerd :haha: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Don't make fun... No, I've been looking for a good WB silver. Someday when I have "disposable income," I'll go to my local Dick Blick and get some...have you used it to cover anything or on dark paper, and how does the opacity hold up if it's thinned? Let me know if you tested these. [attachmentid=21784] Here's some more- on the right, One-Shot is still the best paint I've ever used. Period. It's what signpainters have used for decades, and use to this day. It comes in dozens of colors, with five different formulas. The two main problems are...1) It's pricey....if you can find it, it's $4 for 4 oz. 2) It contains lead, and is therefore really toxic, but it is 100 % weatherproof...tags I did with it on metal grates are still going strong after three years of sun, rain, and feet. It requires a special "reducer" to thin it correctly, which changes only the fluidity, and not the opacity, so it will work in a mop...however, I only use a little at a time since it eats plastic in a hurry. It will not work in a pen- don't bother. It's worth having if you want to experiment with this...but, I only recommend this paint to people who have some painting/fine art experience, and know how to take precautions with lead paint. On a less serious tip, Odds 'n Ends to the left is great, since it's easy to find, cheap and not as bad for you as One-Shot. It thins with almost anything, but like most oil-based paint, it's tricky to get it thin-but-not-streaky without practice. I usually use a little xylene. Once you get it right, it's a nice, long-lasting opaque paint. It also has a good (40+) color selection. Weatherproof, works well in mops, and can be used to refill some paint pens in a pinch, with varying results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Ok the deal with the ink is it is a metalic dust that is being suspended in a form of gel, sort of like a gel pen. I dont know what the opacity would look like if you tryed to thin it but it would most likely be ok. The ink itself is rather thin so it wouldnt take much to make it run. Add water. Treat it like you would treat any other drawing ink thats the way it was designed to be used. The ink does carry a high pricetag if thats a issue, its approximatly 7.50 per one of those vials above, which i think is two onces. I was going to make a chapstick mop with it until i found out that its usless for my work. Still on my quest to crack the secret of krink...which btw I'm close. The I too can be an alpha nerd! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeezerPHM Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 could i add some powder pigment to some...lets say denatured alcohol to make a stainer...would it work? i havent tried it but am gonna try to get this crazy powder pigment (i opened the jar to look at how the color was [rasberry] like and i guess i kiinda breathed some in cuz i had purple-pinkish boogers for a day, and i rubbed some inbetween my fingers an it stained pretty damn good) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC P. Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Yo shai...lol...hate to be annoying... but you didnt answer me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerdx Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 first post. ive got this zig marker and emptied it, ive got some stamp pad refill ink and i tried using it, but after a few days of rain and stuff its faded like mad. what can i add to make it stain more? will leather dye work? also can i thin out some of this sherwin williams floor enamel, like for garaage floors that i have and use it in my marker. how can i test to see if the paint will flow through my nib. its a zig 2 way glue marker. i dont want to get it all set up and the paint not flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flip words Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 ay nerdx, dont put paint into one of those zig markers. mattafact, dont put paint into any marker. it would just clog up the nib and you got a crap marker that wont write for shit. even thinned out paint is a no no in a marker. stick to ink. its better anyway. paint is for mops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Originally posted by nerdx@Sep 22 2005, 09:35 PM first post. ive got this zig marker and emptied it, ive got some stamp pad refill ink and i tried using it, but after a few days of rain and stuff its faded like mad. what can i add to make it stain more? will leather dye work? also can i thin out some of this sherwin williams floor enamel, like for garaage floors that i have and use it in my marker. how can i test to see if the paint will flow through my nib. its a zig 2 way glue marker. i dont want to get it all set up and the paint not flow. Quoted post I've put paint into a zig paint marker. I sort of regret it. The nib does dry out but if you use the paint frequently the the marker should be ok. I found I had better luck with mixing half of the paint from the marker with half of my paint. This may be different with different kinds of paint i was using akrilic (sp?) paint to get nice colors even though they are easy to get rid of (the buff doesnt bother me, it just adds to the game, and yes i do think graffiti is a game.) So in conclusion, experiment. The worst thing that could happen is you learn something and are short a new zig. Be smart don't experiment with otr's or montanas they are too expensive. Side note:My quest for the krink has been slowed, partly because im not sure that i was on the right track have to go back and think about it and try some recipies. Edit: No its not krinks patent but here is some recipies for metallic inks there is a way to make them more permanant and it says it indirectly in the patent. Metal ink link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Originally posted by nerdx@Sep 22 2005, 06:35 PM first post. ive got this zig marker and emptied it, ive got some stamp pad refill ink and i tried using it, but after a few days of rain and stuff its faded like mad. what can i add to make it stain more? will leather dye work? also can i thin out some of this sherwin williams floor enamel, like for garaage floors that i have and use it in my marker. how can i test to see if the paint will flow through my nib. its a zig 2 way glue marker. i dont want to get it all set up and the paint not flow. Quoted post I NEVER put paint in markers, only ink. I use mops for paint, since it's a simple valve designed specifically for thicker mediums like paint or shoepolish. I'll never understand how paint pens work, there's too many tricks to the paint formula for anyone to get it right every single time. This is my opinion, and not a hard and fast rule. As far as what to throw in the Zig (good choice), leather dye is a really good choice, as far as availability and staining power. I like Fiebing's USMC black leather dye the best, but it's a professional product and it's a bitch to find. Griffin is awesome value and works great. Lincoln Is okay, but not on the same level as the first two. Kiwi should be thrown out so the mop can be useful. Look around for inks, too...try to get Pilot or something solvent based. Procolor stamp ink is good, and really easy to find. Garvey ink is hard to find, and well worth it if you do..it stains like crazy and is purple, to boot. Floor enamel? If it's alkyd, it's way too thick to put in anything but a squeeze bottle. Alkyd is great for drip tags, since it takes a jackhammer to get it off the ground, and your tags will run for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathmetal. Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 hopefully this isnt a completely retarded question, but ive done extensive reading/searching of this forum and cant seem to find the answer im looking for. my question is: is it ok to put Marsh T-grade ink in a plastic marker such as a OTR? im asking because when i read the ingredients on the side of my can of marsh, i see Xylene as an ingredient and ive seen many posts saying that products containing xylene shouldnt go in plastic containers/markers. on the other hand, ive seen some posts where people said they put marsh in their OTR or other plastic markers. whats the deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Originally posted by deathmetal.@Sep 23 2005, 02:11 AM hopefully this isnt a completely retarded question, but ive done extensive reading/searching of this forum and cant seem to find the answer im looking for. my question is: is it ok to put Marsh T-grade ink in a plastic marker such as a OTR? im asking because when i read the ingredients on the side of my can of marsh, i see Xylene as an ingredient and ive seen many posts saying that products containing xylene shouldnt go in plastic containers/markers. on the other hand, ive seen some posts where people said they put marsh in their OTR or other plastic markers. whats the deal? Quoted post Go for it! I fill all my pens with T-grade and Garvey, and I haven't had any major problems...Sometimes you'll run across one pen that goes bad, but it's pretty rare. If you're worried about leaks, put the pen in a plastic bag or a rubber glove when you're carrying it. Mostly, make sure the top is screwed on tight and that the body isn't cracked. Those are the reasons almost all my pens have leaked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAR Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 23 2005, 03:53 AM I NEVER put paint in markers, only ink. ah but the woodcraft markers are made for paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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