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The Photography Thread


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This ones for doodle!


i went in the studio with all the expensive ass equipment i have access to laser trigger and everything and even those werent fast enough to completely freeze the water. Not tryin to discourage you just trying to say that sometimes the move interesting images are the ones you can control. Keep refining your skills and learning new skills! I cant wait to see what you come up with next. BTW Marco over here motivated me to post. great images guys keep up the good work


Shot with

profoto acute 2400

2 heads

2-1x3 soft boxes

phase one 645DF

Phase one p25+





Detail taken from the image above its the top right of the cup. you can still see some motion blur where the water isn't completely frozen


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Wow! That close up!!

Thanks man, I know what you mean, I'm just really fascinated with the splash stuff. I'll keep working on it. I know this might be a stupid question but how do you get that everything is black around the glass? Just a black backdrop or is that done in photoshop?

Those Chicago shots are nice, I also really like night time photography I'm going to be doing some night time work this next weekend coming up.


Also, I was approached by an old friend i went to high school with, he's an amazing guitar player (classical guitar), just graduated and what not and is setting up a website and asked me to take photos of him playing guitar etc. Should be int eh next couple of weeks, I'm excited!


Well enough words, I don't have any new photos since i've been super busy with school but here's an older one I like to get into the summer mood.


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Put a black backdrop 5ft behind the subject. It can be anything even a bed sheet tshirt and place your flash or flashes 90 degrees camera left or right or both. That way the light isn't spilling on your background and use a longer lens if you have one. With a lens hood to avoid lens flare. that will give you a black background all you have to do is up the contrast a tiny bit in post to get a clean black background.


If you have any more questions feel free to message me. No question is stupid trust me I deal with students everyday.

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trying to learn more about studio lighting over the summer, i really want to learn more about using strobes and continuous lighting in outdoor and portrait settings.


by trade i do architectural photography mostly shot using HDR and ambient light. for fun i do portraits and documentary type stuff using 35mm and instant films, picked up some new polaroid gear recently and want to take it a bit more seriously with added lights. specifically, i picked up a polaroid 600SE (or the goose) with interchangeable lenses and it takes fuji fp pack film. pretty excited about starting to shoot with it.


would love any tips or suggestions for research from anyone. take it easy ya'll, enjoy some recent shots:












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mad jealous on the 600se. how much you get it for?


ended up with it for $350 off craigslist, more than i'd like to spend on a polaroid but it's got good resale value at least.


as for tips on landscape and cityscape photos i'd always try to shoot at sunset or a few minutes afterward or alternatively at dawn. those are going to give you the best light options. i've had good luck doing hdr stuff at those times but long exposure will give you a similar effect, just depends on what exactly you're going for. as for getting the human effect in there i feel like you'd have to do that at street level not so much from a wide landscape point of view...but maybe others have some better ideas.

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Probably could have been a little clearer but I'm trying to shoot people more as opposed to landscapes. I haven't really shot people, other than with staged iPhone pics I don't really care about.

I feel I have a decent grasp on night shots, night lighting, depth of field issues with the differing appetures etc..

I lurked this thread forever and read everyone's advice and goto the links people add.


I'm going to try and get some shots of people around Chicago in a natural setting and then I'll post and Ill see what you guys think.

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ah, gotcha. well in that case i'd just recommend trying to shoot from the hip as much as possible and just be discreet with your shots. in my case whenever people notice me looking through my viewfinder and actually composing a shot they tend to either get pissed i'm taking their picture or then pose which totally ruins the look that i'm going for.


one of the things i love about my yashica t4 is that it is a super scope so you can look down at it and get an idea of the framing. other than that i'd just recommend getting familiar with your lens if you're shooting with primes, once you have an idea of the distance and focusing its pretty easy to guesstimate your angle of approach to get the composition you want.

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