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surfed for the first time in a year yesterday...


jah

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no, not the internet you fuckin NERDS!!! i went out in cold ass sydney water with trunks and a rashguard and fucked around in stomach high surf. shti was pretty fun though. my nuts didnt appreciate it but.... after my legs went numb it wasnt even really that cold. at least i have something to do now. id get a skate board but theyre expensive as fuck here. damn aussies...

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Guest platapie

i rmemeber watching old videos of aussie surf and seeing shark island, that place was so insane, it would justy suck up over crazy shallow reef and there would be more water above the guys then under them.

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yeah ive seen footage of that place. its fuckin crazy. reminds me of "heroins" on kauai. try to find laird hamiltons wave at teahupoo(sp). its the craziest shit youll ever see. if he fucked up, hed be dead. dude was crying after he made off that wave. crazy....

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wiseguy, im in sydney. you?

 

 

dee, wheres home??

 

went surfing today too. it was pretty fun. i have to get used wetsuits. its way harder to paddle with them. i get tired super fast. oh well, ill get the hang of it after a few times wearin em. one of my favorite things about surfing is the work out anyway. its like swimming but it only works your upper body....

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Guest mind fuck

I used to surf everyweek end, now i surf about twice a year, its very dissapointing, but its sooo hard to find time for it, even the beach is about 20 minutes away from me.

 

Surfing is the fucking best, i do it more for relaxation than anything.

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Guest willy.wonka

i bodysurf..im getting pretty good too..its cool cause now i'll catch a big-ass wave and instead of getting into the superman position, i'll turn on my back and place my hands behind my head and lean into that wave hard...i just need new fins..mine are stretched out beyond belief.

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Guest willy.wonka

i found this guys little talk about sandy beach

 

In no Hawaiian sport does the surfing expression "thrills vs spills" come into play more than body surfing. The thrill of body surfing is easy - all you do is jump in the water. The waves are close, and you can get by with no equipment. But the spills can easily chip or break teeth (done that) or break necks or backs (almost done that).

 

now read this:

The best beaches are (in my opinion) Sandy Beach and Makapuu (out on the east end close together - check both out for the safest that day) and Pounders (near Hauula, hard to find, not as consistent). Timing - you will have a far greater chance of surviving if you go when the waves are smaller, which is usually before about noon. As the breeze kicks up in the mid afternoon, the waves can get pretty intense. Especially at Sandy's. (Great watching, though.) Ask the lifeguard, or at least look at the flag colors. The lifeguard can usually tell you the safer parts of the beach.

 

Definitely avoid the "Gas Chambers" area at Sandy's.

 

THE GREAT WALL OF CHAMBERS is my playground.

 

hers a flick of the waves he likes to catch

http://pages.ivillage.com/raygrogan//sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/bodysurfingsandforeground.jpg'>

 

panty!!!!

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Guest willy.wonka

<---------big wave rider...i like to get pounded..i just dont like that drowning feeling.there were so many girls at SANDY'S it was hillarious.

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