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OMEN TWO

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Everything posted by OMEN TWO

  1. Whats up brother. I'm sorry, I should not have wrote that stuff. It was not directed to you or anyone. I was just writing a goof...thats all. No hard feelings OK. Peace. -Dave
  2. I was joking around with you guys when I was talking about using piss...I just wanted to add a little humor to the thread. I am sure ODS-1 was messing around as well. I don't want anyone to think I am some sort of an asshole.
  3. If you notice bird shit is really hard to get off things. Here in New York City. They have to use a sand blaster to get bird shit off buildings.
  4. I heard piss works pretty well as a thinner, if you are mixing stuff up instead of just getting good ink that is already made to bomb with. Try it out and let me know how that shit works.
  5. AND GARVEY AND MARSH...THEY ARE ALSO GOOD INKS. BUT, LIKE YOU SAID...MOST OF THE OTHER INKS SUCK. BY THE WAY, MY FAVORITE MINI IS FULL OF BLACK MARSH DYE TYPE INK. IT WORKS LIKE A CHAMP. I HAVE A MINI FLOODED WITH VIOLET GARVEY AND A MINI FLOODED WITH BLACK MARSH. I HOLD IT UPSIDE DOWN TILL THE NIB GETS SHINY AND TAG AWAY...I HAVE BEEN GETTING A REALLY GOOD FLOW WITH THE MARSH AND ONE OF MY MINIS. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR NIB IS BROKEN IN AND SOFT AND IT WILL FLOW LIKE FLUID. SOMEONE WROTE ABOUT THE WRITER "BG-183" I WENT BACK TO LOOK FOR THAT POST AND COULD NOT FIND IT. BUT BG AND I WERE GOOD FRIENDS BACK AROUND 84 TO 86. PEOPLE ALWAYS THOUGHT 183 STOOD FOR HIS STREET NUMBER. BUT, IT STOOD FOR HIS ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY THREE HAND STYLES. WHEN I WAS WRITING WITH THE TAT CREW, I MET HIM AND WE DID ALOT OF BOMBING. ANYHOW, MARSH WILL NOT FUCK UP YOUR MINIS. I DID NOTICE THAT MARSH DOES NOT WORK THAT WELL WITH THE OTR TYPE FLOW PENS. AT FIRST IT WORKS. THEN AFTER AWHILE THE OTR TYPE NIB GETS GUNKED UP WITH THE MARSH AND THEN IT WRITES IN STREAKS. I JUST THOUGHT IT WAS A MESSED UP NIB. SO, I PUT IN A NEW NIB AND LATER ON THE SAME THING HAPPENED...IT GOT GUNKED UP. BUT, I HAVE NOT HAD ONE PROBLEM WITH MARSH GUNKING UP A MINI NIB AND I AM USING THE NEW TYPE MINI NIB AT THAT. I JUST BROKE IT IN RIGHT. MARSH WORKS WELL WITH MOPS WITH ERASER STRIP NIBS TOO.
  6. I HAVE BEEN GETTING REALLY GOOD DEALS ON KRINK...32 OUNCE AND 64 OUNCE CONTAINERS, IN DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN I LIKE KRINK, BUT IT IS ONLY GOOD FOR MOPS. I USE THE PLASTIC 4OZ SHOE POLISH APPLICATOR, I TAKE OFF THAT ROUND BULLSHIT FOAM RUBBER NIB AND USE A FOLDED ERASER STRIP AS THE NIB AND IT WORKS BETTER THAN ANYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF. I DID NOTICE THAT THE CONTAINERS WITH THE KRINK GET A LITTLE SOFTER THEN BEFORE THE KRINK WAS ADDED. BUT, I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM WITH ANY MELTING. YOU HAVE TO SHAKE UP KRINK BEFORE YOU USE IT. THEY WANT LIKE 10 BUCKS FOR A 4 oz KRINK MOP WITH THAT BULLSHIT NIB. YOU CAN GET THE SAME EXACT CONTAINER THEY USE, FOR FREE AT RITE AID (MAKE SURE NO ONE SEES YOU TAKE IT...LOL). THEN TAKE OFF THAT BULLSHIT FOAM RUBBER NIB, POUR OUT THE SHOE POLISH, RINSE IT AND DRY IT WELL. SHAKE UP YOUR KRINK AND POUR IT IN THE CONTAINER AND PUT THE FOLDED ERASER NIB IN. SHAKE IT UP HOLD IT UP SIDE DOWN FOR A FEW SECONDS TILL THE NIB IS SHINY WITH KRINK AND YOU HAVE FAT DRIPPY SILVER TAGS. OMEGA INK SUCKS BIG TIME...IT IS TOY INK. ALSO, SOME INK IS CHEAPER THAN OTHER INK. YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SCRAPE WEAK INK OFF GLASS WITH YOUR FINGER NAIL. BUT, IT YOU USE IT ON A POROUS SURFACE. IT WILL SEEP IN. JUST STICK WITH MARSH...YOU GET A WHOLE PINT FOR 15 BUCKS. THE OTR IS OK...BUT...IT IS WAY OVER PRICED..YOU CAN GET TWICE AS MUCH MARSH FOR ONLY 5 BUCKS MORE AND MARSH IS BETTER. NERO IS REALLY OVER RATED AND OVER PRICED...GET BLACK GARVEY FOR SERIOUS GHOSTING AND STAINING. PLUS, IT IS ONLY ABOUT 15 BUCKS FOR AN ENTIRE PINT. A PINT WILL LAST A LONG TIME...IF YOU ARE NOT USING IT IN SUPER DRIPPY MOPS.
  7. yes, I went to queens awhile back (that's when I hooked up with MIN ONE, I know SAGO.) and then came back to manhattan. Send me his email address via pm, and I will hit him up. I met so many writers in the last 25 years that I would have to talk to him to see if I know him. But, he has my story down and knows my crews. So, I must have know him from back in the days.
  8. It comes in 2 to 3 days from UPS. You have to spend a minimum of 25 bucks at garvey and pretend it is being sent to a company...so make up a company name when you order it. I suggest you get two pints, that way you reach the 25 buck minimum ....it is a good deal. Because a pint of violet is about 15 bucks making it a better buy then those bullshit inks...it cost like 12 bucks for nero and that is not even 8 ounces...Plus, garvey is way better than OTR hard to buff and marsh. So, not only is it cheaper than those fake inks they have on graff sites, it is the best ink ever made and 2 pints will last a very very long time. I have an account with the garvey corp. by the way, I did answer your question about it staining the bus panals....scroll up on this page...I will post what I wrote above on this post. You will never be able to buff violet garvey off those plastic panals on the buses....it seeps in and leaves serious ghosting stains...once they try to remove your first garvey tag....they don't even bother with the rest...the shit just does not come off that type of plastic...you can bank on it.
  9. CLICK HERE FOR THE GARVEY XT-70 VIOLET :king:
  10. you will never be able to buff violet garvey off those plastic panals on the buses....it seeps in and leaves serious ghosting stains...once they try to remove your first garvey tag....they don't even bother with the rest...the shit just does not come off that type of plastic...you can bank on it.
  11. for any of the writers I have helped...you are welcome...I am glad you guys are keeping graff alive....When I was into serious writing, it was basically a New York thing. Now, it is people like you that are keeping it alive all over the states and the world. I am glad to share my experieance with you guys...it seems that alot of you have got hip to a few extra things thanks to me and that really makes me happy. I will continue to help out anyone when it comes to graffiti writing....just keep posting. Peace out!:king:
  12. your right....it is stupid to argue over nothing. Peace :crazy:
  13. I think you know who I am too. Rubbish knows who I am. But, you dudes don't seem like assholes....But, keep it to yourselves anyway:cool:
  14. OMEN IS JUST THE HANDLE FOR THIS FORUM....WHEN I WAS AT ANOTHER FORUM, I USED THE NAME I TAGGED WITH, (THE LONG VERSION) AND BECAUSE MOSTLY KIDS WERE ON THAT FORUM...THEY EITHER NEVER HEARD OF ME OR DID NOT BELIEVE I WAS WHO I SAID I WAS....SO, TO AVOID THAT NONSENSE FROM A BUNCH OF TOYS THAT NEVER EVEN WROTE ON A SUBWAY IN THEIR LIFE...I JUST STICK WITH OMEN...I WILL SAY ONE THING THOUGH...MIN ONE AND ME WERE VERY CLOSE FRIENDS IN THE MID TO LATE 80'S AND AGAIN IN THE MID 90'S. BUT, LETS LEAVE IT AT THAT AND JUST TALK ABOUT INK AND MARKERS...I WILL NEVER STEER YOU WRONG IN THAT DEPARTMENT.
  15. I REALLY HAVE TO DISAGREE WITH YOU ON THAT!...WHEN YOU BOIL IT YOU WILL REALLY FUCK IT UP. ESPECIALLY IF YOU BAKE IT....IT WILL SHRINK AND GET ALL MISSHAPED. THE IDEA IS TO MAKE IT, SO INK FLOWS THROUGH YOUR NIB...BOILING IT WILL MAKE IT EVEN TIGHTER THAN IT IS....COMMON SENSE DICTATES THAT. WE ARE TALKING ABOUT MINIWIDES NOT ULTRAWIDES...SO, YOU DON'T HAVE 2 INCHES OF NIB TO STAB...REMEMBER ONLY STAB THE TOP PART, NOTHING ELSE AND YOUR NIB WILL BE BETTER THAN YOU CAN IMAGINE....IT TAKES A LITTLE TIME. BUT, THIS METHOD WILL WORK BETTER THAN ANYTHING IN THE BOOK. YOU SIMPLY TAKE YOUR NIB, KEEP IT IN YOUR MINI AND START STABBING THE TOP PART AND ONLY THE TOP PART. NOT THE SIDES. YOUR NIB WILL GET VERY SOFT AND THE INK WILL FLOW LIKE FLUID. 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE TAUGHT ME A LOT ABOUT THIS KIND OF STUFF HERE IN NEW YORK CITY.
  16. OK, Now, I know what the problem is...they sold you minis but they do not have their original nibs in them. The original nibs are very soft and they are cream color. They do not make the original nibs anymore. Being I spent so much money at art primo and I am talk to them in person on the phone....I asked them to yank out 20 original nibs and sell them to me. They sell the new nibs for a buck fifty each...they just don't have them on their web page. So, when they yanked the 20...they replaced the minis with the new stiff ones and they are selling them that way. Now, those stiff nibs are very good...you just have to know how to make them soft. What you do, is keep the nib in your mini and start stabbing the top part with a very sturdy needle, keep stabbing the top till it starts to soften...It will get softer and softer as you stab it hundreds of times...you don't need to stab it anywhere else but the top. As it gets soft the needle will go down further and further and your nib will be just like an old skool nib. In fact, I realized that the newer nibs are kind of better...you just have to stab the top of it till it gets to where it is flexible. You will know once it is flexible...It will work like a champ. But, you have to do what I said. I softened a new type nib and it is my favorite mini...I have one with black marsh dye type and one with violet garvey and they write very well...they flow and are juicy....you just have to do as I said. As far as the nibs go...the old skool ones are rare....But, you can get the new type ones at 4 the hard way and urban designz and art primo...you just have to write art primo and tell them you need nibs...they still make the new type ones...they work good once you break them in right. If you do not have a hypodermic needle, then you might want to hold the needle with a pair of pliers or vice grips. Because, at first the needle will be hard to stab with and you really can't get a good grip on it with your bare fingers...I use a hypodermic needle...the hypo is like a handle for the needle.... so, I just poked away at the nib till it was soft.
  17. HMMMM. JUST WONDERING...DID YOU GET THEM FROM ART PRIMO? ARE THE NIBS WHITE OR ARE THEY CREAM COLOR? I HAD THEM PULL OUT 20 OF THE ORIGINAL NIBS FROM THE MINIS AND SELL THEM TO ME AND THEY COULD HAVE PUT THE NEW TYPE NIBS AND THEY HAVE BEEN SELLING THEM WITH THE NEW TYPE WHITE STIFF NIBS. IN ANY EVENT YOU CAN FIX THEM...IF NOT...TRY TO ORDER NEW NIBS. BECAUSE THOSE MINIS ARE ABOUT 15 TO 20 YEARS OLD AND COULD HAVE GOT DAMAGED THROUGH OUT THE YEARS OF BEING HANDLED. AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A FEW MINIS. THE MAIN THING IS HAVING PLENTY OF NIBS...GOOD NIBS. SO, THE MAIN THING IS YOU GOT THE MINIS. WHEN YOU REFILL THEM...YOU DO NOT NEED TO PULL THE NIB OUT...TAKE AN INK INJECTION NEEDLE AND SLOWLY STICK THE NEEDLE TILL IT GOES PAST THE NIB AND SLOWLY INJECT YOU INK TILL YOUR NIB IS FLOODED AND JUICY.
  18. IT IS SHORT FOR HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IT IS USED FOR THINGS LIKE SCRIMSHAW AND OTHER TYPE PROJECTS. BUT, PLEASE DON'T TRY TO USE IT. IT CAN BLIND YOU AND IT IS REALLY NOT WORTH IT. YOU HAVE TO USE IT IN A GLASS CONTAINER OR A METAL CONTAINER AND YOU WOULD WANT TO USE IT THE SAME DAY YOU FILL YOUR TAGGING DEVICE. OTHERWISE YOU WILL NOT HAVE A TAGGING DEVICE THE NEXT DAY. IT WILL BE MELTED. YOU ALSO WANT TO WEAR GOGGLES WHEN USING IT. PEOPLE DON'T LIKE TO TALK ABOUT THIS TYPE OF STUFF ON THIS FORUM AND I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT. IT IS POINTLESS. IT ALSO FUCKS UP YOUR THE WAY YOUR INK LOOKS...IF YOU WANT TO CALL IT INK.:confused:
  19. It sounds like your eraser is too narrow for your container. To keep the nib from going in on erasers that are too narrow for your container. take a nail and put in the crease where the fold is and cut the nail so it is just long enough to go across the containers opening...this will stop the nib from going in your container....if you have wide strips...all you do is fold them, stick it down in the opening, and flatten the tip by pushing it down so it over laps the opening of your container. Then there is another way....once you fold the eraser strip...take another strip and put it in between the fold, hold it all together and slide it in your container...this will make the nib more like a plug so it is in there firmly. To refill them, take the nozzle of your ink and stick it in between the eraser nib and the container and slowly juice up your mop till it is flooded.
  20. You would have been better off not messing with your ink....now you are out some ink and made a mess.:rolleyes:
  21. I agree about what you guys said about magnums. I noticed that a member was talking about how he refills his magnum. He said he used pliers to yank the nib out and bend the marker to get the nib back in with pliers and them crimp it so the ink won't leak out, he even said something about using glue for the nib, to hold it in place. That is too much trouble for a bullshit marker. That's why I mentioned the ink injector needle to avoid all that bullshit. I do have a magnum. I went to target and saw a magnum in a cart with other stuff and I asked what department they had them in. He took it to a price checker and said we don't even sell these (mags) and he handed it back to me. So, I put in my back pocket and walked out of the store. I tried it out and it did not write that well. Plus, the ink is funky. They are "low end" markers. I like pilots better:cool:
  22. Simply get an ink injector from a printer ink injection kit. I use them to refill my Magnums and they work like a champ. No need to drill holes and shit.
  23. Click on the link below for the best chalk board erasers....If you want the really wide ones get the SCHOOL MATE Republic Standard Eraser. Just srcoll down a little. The first eraser on the top of the page is also good if you want the the less wide kind. The are like a $1.07 each for the Repulic Standards...You get 6 strips, that can make 6 mops....If that is not a deal for nibs that will last forever I don't know what is...They want like $1.99 for one of those small O.T.R replacement nibs, now that is a rip off. You can't go wrong using erasers for nibs, they are like sponges, they drip like hell, they are smooth as shit and they are made out of felt and wool.. Erasers....Clich here.
  24. Now, I understand what you mean...what you have there is the Dye Type ink...not the Paint type ink. I have both and I looked at the differeance. Yours matches the Dye Type.
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