swif1

They will. If crotch blows out, you can have them repaired and reinforced! High key looking forward to your review/updates. You right. Thanks to them, we have wabi-sabi. Really though, the popularity and resurgence helped cement my love and appreciation of denim. Cinched waist thing is just overkill but I can dig it, just not for me.

Thank you for sharing those videos. I had dinner watching them. I like the Sapporo one and decided to pass on 3Sixteens. Hit up their shop then decided I'm going to stick to 3Sixteens. 🤣🥴😔 crazy to see how labor intensive it is. I don't even want to check their site. https://www.buaisou.shop/ buddy from Sapporo Think I'll just stick to their shirts and accessories instead

@CLICKCLACKONERTIL rope dyeing is what allows the jeans to have a white center (of the yarn). I thought it was the opposite this entire time. https://www.heddels.com/dictionary/rope-dyeing/ https://theunbrandedbrand.com/pages/rawdenim

Yo, black jeans are required in everyone's wardrobe. Quit slacking, @glorydays

They're based in the city (NYC) so yeet.

Bro! Check out this guy's fades. Fucking SICCCCCCCCC Fucking NT denim. 💀 Yo, we all make mistakes on the first run. My APC's and N&F's were tapered from the outseam too. I have a lot of black jeans and believe it would fade to a really dull black. You're the first person who I came across who've use the freezer method unless you meant it figuratively. Everyone I've met always said they've "heard" it works. Imo, it'd be best to do soaks to wash them as opposed to the washer. Alternatively, you can use the dry cleaners.

TRUTH

Haha b-but muh character! Not gonna lie, the Rimowa x Moncler collab (called Reflection) looks so nice.

Anyone have a vegetable tanned leather belt in natural color? Though I'm convinced that's obligatory when owning raws. Might pick up another Billykirk Mechanic's Belt in black that's a size smaller since it's on sale. Considering punching a new hole in my Tanner Goods belt too 🤔 edit: Just remembered my original question: Any of y'all adjust/fix your staxxx or am I just weird? 🤣

Yooo I used to lurk on SuFu heavy and then moved to StyleForum. I still visit that place from time to time, but there's a lot of old money there, no doubt. Enjoyed the sneakerheads and SLP threads. Used to frequent /fa/ a lot pre-athleisure heh.

yeahhhh I thought I had blogs bookmarked, but I guess not 😞

Truer words have never been spoken. APC fades dummy fast. Wish I knew about denim repairs back then before I trashed them. Get emmmmmm. Totally forgot to respond heh I see you lean you lean your left knee against the door panel too lmao @ndvYo, knee bags are no joke ha. If you're looking to get into denim, definitely check around to see what brand you like. For example, I wish I had another pair of Ande Whall's before he shut it down. I thought it was really cool that it was literally a one-man operation and the jeans are made-to-order all the way from New Zealand with denim from the denim capital, Okayama. He would also do these "special rolls" where he makes 21 pairs from that one roll of denim and dassit mane. His signature were the buffalo wings on the rear pockets. It sucks the pics aren't cached, but here's something: https://www.heddels.com/2012/05/just-released-ande-whall-x-wakefield-hotel/ I like how Brave Star has a vertical selvedge going down vertically on the coin pocket whereas Railcar shows selvedge in the fly. It's common to have a "peek-a-boo" selvedge coin pocket as a nod to the days of yore as it's a reminder and appreciation that the jeans were handmade/sewn. Also, 100% cotton raws are the way to go for longevity and are easier to work with when it comes to repairs. This is probably why @mr.yuck's jeans always blow out so fast lmaoooo (9X%cotton, X% stretch). Most of my jeans now have stretch because I want to be able to cross my legs or run up every other step on the stairs. Like @glorydays, I prefer to do a pre-soak before wearing to get all the shrinkage out. I had a pair I wore from the get-go and after I soaked them, the honeycombs (behind the knee) moved up .5"-1". That had me so flustered, I vowed to always pre-soak. Having said that, most denim brands will tell you how much shrinkage to expect but it's almost always up to an inch so take that into consideration when you get them hemmed. Taking them to a tailor for a hem is "ok". However, the roping effect isn't as pretty or apparent as a chainstitch. They also 99.9% do not have a Union Special machine to do a chainstitch. Mass-produced jeans have them since it's probably just a textile running nonstop through an industrial machine. Heavy weight denim is best suited for colder climates/seasons. Naked & Famous drops some fucking ridiculously stupid heavyweight shits that's hilarious to see them capable of such feats. Can't imagine how many needles are replaced to make or repair them would be. Probably have to wear safety glasses/goggles just in case. Get ready for your skin and shoes to turn blue :).

@glorydayshahaha nahh, i can't stand when it gets to that point, but it was yellow. I'm surprised there's still dye left to bleed on this pair ha

Yeah, shrink will def be minimal. Even so, it'll stretch back to how they fit you pre-soak. Wore my oldest pair of raws to dinner at my parents. Got sweaty af so time to soak. forgot about them for an hour or two and dumped the dirty water and now soaking in clean water

@glorydayswhy no pre-soak? Don't think they'll shrink anymore although sanforized? Kinda regret selling mine after seeing your pics. Tempted to get a pair of 3Sixteen Shadows as my final pair of raws. 🤧

You mean soak, right? pls tell me soak.. I like to keep multiple measurements pre-, post-soak, after/during wear when stretched as I find that stuff cool heehee

@mr.yuckHaha no worries. You should measure your favorite pants post-wash when it's shrank. May be overkill, but I suggest also measuring the back rise. https://www.blueowl.us/pages/measuring-guide @glorydaysHow much stretch you getting gd haha. Tbh it's been a while since I last broke in a pair of 100% cotton raws, but iirc I probably sized down one since the brands I owned didn't use vanity sizing. 'Could be wrong tho. shrug Looks like Railcar got ahold of some Cone Mills denim. Mr. Yuck, you might be able to find a pair here in your size 🙂 https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms/products/spikes-x001 https://railcarfinegoods.com/collections/mens-bottoms

I've had to size down when jeans from a different season ballooned in size otherwise TTS or "both" for sometimes DH and especially SLP. For actual denim brands, I think I get TTS. However, it really depends on the cut. Ok, so waist is probably a true 38"-39". I was going to check out 3x1 since they do custom, but website is down.

Fair enough. Bro, don't get me started of people with the cinch the back. That is way too much for me. Lolllllll Oh for sure, I'm def not selling my raws ever either. These pre-distressed jawns and khakis are more so on the collector's side being that it's during the Hedi-era at SLP. That makes a lot of sense. Clockwise from the bottom: The DH I was talking about; MIJ Selvedge DH; MIJ Selvedge SLP. You keep the excess fabric like me? I love comparing it to the jeans' current state. What's your waist size, @mr.yuck?

Yah, sent it to Denim Surgeon in NJ instead of their NY location this time around. Used to have Railcar do my work but having been using Denim Surgeon as it's a little "closer" as of late. Why mad at Wrangler? Because huge corporation? Genuine question. I def prefer US or Japan myself for raws and agree with the QC. And yeah, boi. High waist is the worst waist haha. I reckon we have the same frame but we're definitely same height and inseam. Awesome pickup tho. You should have a pair of raws at different stages of fade for every occasion! I have a pair with 29" inseam for "tasteful" staxxx otherwise it's 28"-27" depending on the cut. I just scored a pair denim and khakis with a 33" inseam so it's staxxx galore. I'll probably leave them as is to attract more prospective buyers when I decide to resell. I wonder if my MIJ DH's are greencast. I thought I was going insane as they have a green tint in certain light, but I could very well be insane. It seems like it's more common than redcast based on Google image search unless large manufacturers use it with synthetic indigo. Thanks for the knowledge; ain't know about the 'cast until now.

Sent jeans to get hemmed with a chainstitch, but USPS couldn't locate a way to the place. Don't remember if I put a return address on it either. Hopefully it arrives. Now I'm on the fence if I want to try and find a way to ship it back and sell it to get a different pair. Fuck ADHD.

Seeing my friends teetering on the edge of paranoia is hilarious when I look back.

@glorydaysyeah, you're going to have to wear them often, there's no doubt about that haha. With it being 100% cotton at that weight, it'll feel like the jeans are perma-starched against your skin lmao. Definitely agree on the manufacturing and ethics point. I cannot imagine the volume of water and petroleum used during the manufacturing process--especially when synthetic indigo dye is likely used. You can also add Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam to that list. Hell, maybe even Turkey. On a random note, I remember when Target released "selvedge" denim. It turned out to be only a few inches from the hem for that cuff flex hahaha I prefer avoiding buying from fast fashion brands although I do have a several items from Uniqlo. Then again, the same could be said for designer brands, which I'm a victim of. Just got some washed denim that's 100% cotton I didn't expect to fit in the waist yet during my continued weight loss quest; just need to shed some more fat in my thunder thighs. Bloody hell, I forgot how unforgiving 100% cotton is. When I was in the Allen Edmonds boutique last fall, they look to be carrying selvedge. SA said they worked with the founder of Lucky Brand Jeans: https://www.allenedmonds.com/explore/collaborations/civilianaire/ Jeans are made here although not sure where they source the denim. I figured Cone Mills but it looks like they closed their doors in 2018 with Wrangler buying x amount of their remaining stock to do limited releases. Edit: lmao what a coincidence you brought up Cone Mills in the last post. I like the vertical selvedge lining on the coin pocket. Definitely a nice break from the usual and loving the cut.

Any thoughts on Rimowa?