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Joker

12oz Original
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Posts posted by Joker

  1. 8 minutes ago, Ray40 said:

    Back after a long while any advice, maybe a few demo sketches@Joker ?

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    Welcome back, Ray. 

     

    Yep, that looks good for a solid simple. Your letters have similar weight to all of them, the bits to the left and arrow to the right give the whole thing balance. Nice. 

     

    My only feedback is the Y has 50% more 'style' to it than the R and A. Either add some style to those letters or pull back on the Y. Up to you. 

    • Like 2
  2. On 11/9/2022 at 11:43 AM, nachodik said:

    @Jokergot some new sketches, id love a crit

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    I think this sketch is fine but the leg of the R and the backside of the E being one 'thing' isn't working. I think because the only thing you have to indicate that it's an R is the little bit coming off the letter just before connecting to the E. If there was more of that, or more line work to define each letter more, that might fix that one minor area. 

     

    On 11/9/2022 at 11:43 AM, nachodik said:

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    I've always been a fan of flat-bottom pieces like this. When I was coming up in DC I made a day trip to Baltimore with Mesk and Wake and we saw several pieces with that style and it blew me away. 

     

    Anyway - I see what you're stretching for (sorry... had to 😉 )by elongating the R to the P but I think it's slightly too much a stretch. BUT, I love that you went there. Maybe the leg of the R goes behind and under the straight bars and comes back up to form the P? That way you can define the E a little more? Sorry, I don't have time for sketches today to show you what I mean. 

     

  3. Also, not sure where you're located but if you have a local racing scene I would check their message board for a "For Sale" thread. Especially this time of year when guys are looking to unload bikes or parts so they can upgrade for next year. Bike racers are like any racing culture... they have to have the latest and greatest so they're constantly upgrading. You can get some quality stuff for cheap that's only been used for one or two years. And you can haggle.  

    • Props 2
  4. With tubeless you'll need tubeless valve stems and some sealant. I use Muc-Off valve stems and Stans sealant. They have one that is compatible with Co2 cartridges should you need to fix a flat. Most sealants aren't compatible with Co2. Also, make sure the rim tape on the rims is tubeless ready. I'd assume if the wheels are tubeless ready then you're good to go.  

     

    One thing to keep in mind with Tubeless tires is that you'll need a high-pressure floor pump to get air in the tires, at least when seating the tires for the first time. I take that back... you don't NEED a high-pressure floor pump but it will make you're life wayyyyyy easier if you have one (before I invested in one it took me almost two hours to seat two tires. I've never been so exhausted in my life). The reason is because of the way tubeless tires set up on the rim. Typically you'll have a tube and air goes into the tube, and the air is contained in the tube so it doesn't escape. With tubeless it's... well, tubeless. So when you pump air it goes into the tire, and since the tire isn't perfectly seated into the rim yet air can escape as you're pumping it in. What a high-pressure pump does is allow you to pump air into a chamber, and then release a blast of air at once. This blast of air seats the tire in place. Then you spin the wheel around and move it around in a swirling motion so the sealant coats the tire beads and creates a tighter seal. Once they're seated you're fine. 

     

    Air will slowly escape over a several days. You'll notice after two or three days that you have to put air in your tires. You won't have to use the blast of air, just a normal pump. 

     

    All high-pressure floor pumps have a release for the blast of air from the chamber. And if you keep the release open the pump becomes a regular floor pump. I personally use the Lezyne digital pressure overdrive floor pump, which was way too much money for a pump, but it works great. I've heard great things about the Foundation Airblast tubeless floor pump which is $90. 

     

    And you can always set your tires up and take them to your local bike shop to pump air into them to get them seated. At least until you can get a high-pressure floor pump yourself. 

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. @Elena Delle Donne- tubulars are for racing, period. You don't want tubulars for rolling around town or adventure riding. Tubulars have to be glued to the rim and it's a process. Changing tires is also a process. I would go with clincher wheels or tubeless ready wheels. I've been riding tubeless for the last five years and I'll never go back. With tubeless minor punctures get plugged immediately. Bigger punctures require a plug but they work incredibly well. There's been so many rides where I've gotten a puncture and didn't even realize it until I got home and saw some sealant around my tire. Not sure if those Boyd wheels are tubeless ready but if they are I would recommend looking into adding tubeless tires w/ sealant. 

     

    I'm pretty sure the 2021 SRAM Red22 groupset is a mechanical groupset. You should be able to find a decent set for not too much money. The Pros Closet has some SRAM Red22 components right now. I've been running Red eTap for about ten years and I swear by it. I probably have to charge my derailleur batteries about every three months or so... possibly longer. So charging isn't really a big issue. And they're super-easy to charge. I don't know much about Shimano so I can't speak to it. 

    • Like 1
  6. You have any idea how many people out there write Joker? I doubt it's the most popular name but it's definitely up there. I might as well write John Smith. 

     

    If you think about the 'hard & fast' rule of giving yourself a name, the history of why your choice is important, the rule stems from a time when the rules were being made. A time when there was maybe a few thousand writers. Cut to now... we have millions of writers out there. So having the same name as another writer - one city away or one country away - is highly likely. 

     

    Of course you could tap into the old school naming convention of adding a number to your name. GERM23, GRM4, for example. You can use the Graffiti classic - the street number you live on  (if that applies to you), or you can use a favorite number, your age, a number that has relevance to you or a moment in time, etc..

     

    @GrmAll that said - I think what matters most is what you do with the name. 

    • Like 1
    • LOL! 1
  7. @nachodik- just a few thoughts noted below. I tried to add some further ideas to the second sketch but it all got wonky, sorry about that. The gist is to tuck the back of your E under and through your R. This is a pretty common trick a lot of writers use and works pretty well. The top sketch looks pretty good to me, the only thing I would do is shift the E to the left slightly so the E and P are touching. All the other letters are connected/touching so this will make it feel a part of the piece. 

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    • Like 1
    • Props 1
  8. 9 minutes ago, CLICKCLACKONER said:

    @Jokeri copped your tribal t-shirt at commander salamander in DC like in ‘92-3. The one with the profile of an Afro kid with. Loved that tshirt and era. 
     

     

    Wait... whaaaatttttt?!?!? That is so awesome. When I was a teenager I used to shop at Commander Salamander (first when it was on M street, and when it moved to Wisconsin Ave) for all my punk/goth gear. I think I spent more money on creepers in that store than anyone. Yeah, not your typical 80s era Graffiti writer. Ha!

    • Like 1
  9. @glorydays @CLICKCLACKONER@nicklesndimes

     

    Yeah, I went to school in Pittsburgh in 1989 and met Brick who was the front man for a hardcore band called Time Bomb. I created that clock/bomb logo with the arrows, and did the cover art for one of their albums (or their only album??). About three years later I was living in San Diego and met the guys who had just started Tribal Streetwear and they hired me to do some t-shirt designs. I ended up not only doing art for their brand but also working for them in the warehouse and other odd jobs. 

     

    I also did some snowboard designs for Burton and 12 (out of Japan). And several shirts for Upper Playground a while back, too. 

     

    No fancy denim, though. 

     

    • Like 2
    • Props 1
  10. @EGGZ- I was just looking through your sketches again and something that kept hitting me was the idea of using your E to create your Z. It'll help you make your entire piece feel more consistent in the way it looks/feels. 

     

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    • Like 1
  11. @nicklesndimes

     

    That's a pretty cool vintage bike, for sure. I like your idea of keeping it stock but I think some upgrades will go a long way in making the bike ride smoother and feel more comfortable. 

     

    The first thing I would do is disassemble the bike completely. Remove everything... bottom bracket and headset, too. Degrease all parts, use some steel wool or something to bring the slightly rusted bits back to glory. 

     

    As for the frame... you'll need to decide if you want to celebrate the 'history' of the bike and keep the marred paint as is or if you want to strip the frame and repaint it. You can probably find a new decal set online that matches the old Giant logo or you can create your own and have a local sign shop die-cut the decals for you. 

     

    From there I would replace the headset and bottom bracket with brand new ones. You could probably spend hours cleaning and rebuilding them both if you'd rather but my lazy ass would just replace them with brand new. 

     

    I would also get brand new brake pads, brand new brake and shifter cables. 

     

    And, and this is just me, I would replace those shifters/brake levers with a set of vintage Shimano 600 levers - if the rest of your group set is Shimano. The 600s come with rubber hoods which will be way more comfortable on your hands. 

     

    I would also replace the saddle with a Selle San Marco Rolls saddle. Classic, super-comfortable. 

     

    You could probably rebuild the hubs and they'll be fine, and hopefully true the wheels if needed, and just reuse the original wheels, or you could upgrade them to something that is period correct. Like a set of Mavic box rims laced to a Shimano hub. If you do that, be sure to keep in mind the number of cogs your current cassette is and make sure the wheelset you buy has the correct hub for your set up. Meaning, if you have an 8-speed cassette (8 cogs) make sure the wheelset you buy comes with an 8-speed hub. 

     

    New tires, can't go wrong with Conti 5000 tires. Last a while, smooth rolling. 

     

    And I would finish it off with Ambrosio bar tape. Can't go wrong there. You could even take it back further with cork bar ends. 

     

    Should be a fun project! Would love to see progress or at least the finished product when you're done. 

    • Like 3
    • Props 1
  12. @lordkisami- my initial reaction is to ease up on the breaks in all your line work. You're not consistent with them (look a the difference between the L and the R) and honestly they don't add any style value to the piece, especially when you use that many. It feels like you're trying to replace a style with the line breaks and that's not a good path to go down. Also, the O looks like you kept it locked up in the basement for months and only fed it leaves and water when compared to the rest of the letters. I'd beef up the weight of the O, too. 

     

    I did a very quick sketch to show what I mean...

     

     

    Untitled_Artwork.jpg

    • Like 2
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