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Born Loser

By Born Loser
in Channel Zero

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Born Loser

Born Loser

Posted
Posted

Does anyone else love slurrpy's as much as I do? I'll have one any time of the day, rain, snow whatever. I always get a double big gulp fill it with a little bit of vanilla coke pop in the bottom then put pepsi slurppy in the rest. Then I tell the guy it's a refill so i get it for cheap.

 

If you don't like slurppy's what's your choice of drink?

 

 

 

 

:P :P :P

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Dirty_habiT

Dirty_habiT

Posted
Posted

My browser is set to not cache files dickweed.

 

*******************************************************************************

** Dreamcast Controler Port Repair FAQ **

*******************************************************************************

12/03/00

Ver 0.95

By Jeff Hill

oomap@aol.com

 

**** WARNING!!! **** This modification MAY harm your Dreamcast, but after

20 hours of playtime I have seen no adverse effects as of yet!

 

**** WARNING!!! **** By performing this modification, you will void any

and all warranties that are still valid for your Dreamcast

 

 

Note: This modification was performed on an American Dreamcast. I'm guessing

the Japanese/Asian Dreamcast's circuitry is similar, if not the same. I would

not advise trying this on an Asian/Japanese Dreamcast until this is

verified.

 

Go ahead and use this FAQ whenever, wherever you want to. This information is

important for those of us who use the AgeTec arcae sticks, and I believe it

should be free.

 

This procedure was neither suggested nor is it endorsed by Sega. Dreamcast is

a registered trademark of Sega Co., Inc.

 

Update: A total of three Dreamcasts have been fixed with this procedure. No

ill affects yet.

 

 

 

 

-Version History-

v0.95 Added information about the Fishing Rod controller and the 2 other

Dreamcasts that were successfully modified

 

v0.9 The first version. Complete details about the problem and the suggested

solution/modification.

 

 

-Introduction-

Over the years my friends and I have had Dreamcasts, we've always had

arcade sticks for the many great fighters that have been released for the

system since. We all bought the AgeTec arcade sticks (official Sega sticks

with the green buttons and knob), and have had no problems with them up until

now. Not too longago, my friend reported a problem with his Dreamcast with

which he could not use any controllers on ANY port. With my mild knowledge of

electronics, I took a look at it and could find no problem. I then tried

switching out the controller port board with the one from my Dreamcast. That

seemed to fix the problem, but as soon as we plugged in the arcade stick, mine

was fried as well. We ended up ordering new control port boards for each

system, never using his arcade sticks again.

Recently, MY arcade stick fried the ports of my OTHER friend's Dreamcast.

It was at that point I decided to try to find out what the heck was going on.

Through a little research and a simple modification, I seem to have fixed the

problem. The explaination follows.

 

-Modification-

I learned from NCS (www.ncsx.com) that replacing the resistor marked F1

(on the top of the controller port board)

would solve the problem. I knew that if I were to simply replace the resistor

that it would just burn out again, so it was back to E&M Physics for me. I

hypothesised that the arcade sticks somehow accepted or output too much power

to the board. The board for the controller ports seemed to be connected to

the rest of the dreamcast by only the data ribbon, so upping the ohmage

(resistance) of the resistor should be safe. Moreover, the electricity flows

FROM themain board not TO it, and only data travels the other direction.

I dug up one of my old books and figured out the ohmage of the resistor

that was there in F1. It is somewhere around 5 ohms. So I went to Radio

Shack and picked up some 10-ohm resistors (less than a dollar for five).

After switching out the 5-ohm one for the 10-ohm one, my arcade stick no

longer fried the board (and still hasn't after 20 hours of gameplay). I'm

happy to be able to actually PLAY again! Here is a step-by-step walkthrough

of how to accomplish this.

 

Please read all the steps carefully before proceeding, and if you are unsure of

yourself DON'T DO IT:

 

What you will need:

-Soldering Iron

-Solder (I used Silver Bearing, .022 gauge, %62 Tin/%36 Lead/%2 Silver Solder)

(This is serial number 64-013 at Radio Shack)

-Phillips head screwdriver (small enough to fit in the holes for the Dreamcast

screws)

-1/4 watt, %5 tolerance, 10-ohm resistors

(Serial number 271-1301 at Radio Shack)

-Needle-nosed Plyers

-A steady hand

-A kind friend who will trust your steady hand

-Paper Clip (optional)

 

You can pick up all of these items at your local Radio Shack (as if I hadn't

noted that enough :)

 

 

Step 1 - Remove all four screws from the bottom of the Dreamcast. You'll need

to take off the modem to get to one of them.

 

Step 2 - Remove the four screws holding the controler port board to the

Dreamcast

 

Step 3 - Remove the data ribbon. It is connected to the port board and the main

board. You can just grab both sides and remove it from the port board.

 

Step 4 - Remove the fan cable. This is kind of tricky. I used a paper clip to

help me remove it without pulling on the cords too much. There are two

obtrusions from the white connector that you can push forward with the paper

clip.

Once it is loose, you can remove it completely by pulling forward on the white

cover to the ports and pushing back on the board.

 

Step 5 - This is the beginning of the actual modification. The resistor is on

the board at the location marked F1. If you look at the brown side of the

board, you will see labels for each component, and this is where you will find

the F1 label. The resistor you're looking for is blue with 5 color bands

(standard), has two wires, and is kind of like a cone. You should make sure

that your soldering iron is hot enough so that touching solder to it will make

it melt instantly. Note the way the existing resistor is in place. If you

turn the board so that the ports are facing away from you, you will see that

the left wire on the resistor is thicker than the right wire. When you instal

the replacement, you need to install it's wires the same way.

Now carefully look at the bottom of the board where the components are

soldered on to it. Take note as to where the resistor is soldered on (two

points directly underneath the resistor wires). Have your friend pull gently

on one of the wires of the resistor with the plyers (so he doesn't burn his/her

hand). Now press the soldering iron firmly to the soldered point that is

underneath the wire your friend is pulling on until that wire comes all the way

out. Repeat this process for the other wire of the resistor so that it is

completely off the board.

 

Step 6 - You will now be replacing the resistor. Have your friend insert the

thinner wire first (goes to the right hole when the ports are facing away from

you). Place the soldering iron onto the solder point corresponding to that

hole firmly (if you are underneath the board, controller ports facing towards

your head, it will be the one on the left). As the wire starts to come

through, move it out of the way, but be careful not to hold it there too long.

Let the wire slide all the way through until the resistor itself (semi-cone-

shaped part) is almost touching the brown side of the board, but still has a

little wire between it and the board.

Bend the thicker wire around so it will go in the other hole, and repeat

the process. The wires will be much longer than the ones still soldered to the

board, but we'll take care of that soon.

 

Step 7 - The solder points are probably not very clean anymore, most likely more

bunched up on one side. Cut a small wire of solder. Place the soldering iron

on the side that has the least solder. Touch a very small ammount of solder to

the iron, making for a small circle of solder around the wires similar to the

other components on the board. Make sure this is not covering up any of the

imprinted lines that represent the makeup of the circuitry. Repeat this

process for the other wire.

 

Step 8 - Now the wires should be firmly soldered, not messily, and the resistor

should not come out when pulled upon (with moderate force of course). You now

need to trim those long wires. I suppose you could use some sort of wire

cutter, but I didn't have one, so I just rocked them back and forth until they

broke off (anyone know a better way?)

 

Step 9 - Put everything back together and play!

 

 

 

-Credits-

:Me

:gosu@superrobotwar.com for letting me in on which resistor to replace, which he

learned from ncs by giving their friendly staff a call (www.ncsx.com)

 

As I said, this process has worked for me with three American model Dreamcasts.

 

chris@murrayanimations.co.uk has informed me that he has encountered a similar

problem with his Dreamcast. The difference is, a fishing rod controller was the

cause of the problem in his case. It has shorted out his Dreamcast. I have yet

to hear if he will go ahead with the modification. Anyone else encountering

this problem with a fishing controller can email me.

 

Any questions, comments, problems, other difficulty with controllers on the

Dreamcast, offers for free cars, free computers, or free socks can be sent to

oomap@aol.com (I hate AOL too).

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When

When

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by sneak

what? slurpees are real? i thought it was just something from the simpsons...

 

actually on the simpsons they are called squishies

but yes slurpees are great

funny how the creator of this thread culdnt spell slurpee correctly

'Does anyone else love slurrpy's as much as I do? '

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