car sound system question

last night i hooked up amp/subs in my car. now, when i turn the stereo on and off, i get a 'pop' sound from the subs. what is this caused by, and how can i prevent it? it's not a huge deal, but it doesnt sound that great, and there must be some way to stop it.

special bonus question:

my subs aren't hitting nearly as hard as they used to in my old car. granted, it was a hatchback (i'm in a jetta now) so there was nothing between the subs and the cabin, but still.... is this because i'm using the stock head? this is a pretty basic set up were talking here...JL 10's, and a sony amp. both of which are atleast 6 or so years old. nothing fancy or extravigant. i dont want some crazy system, just something that sounds decent.

ok, i guess that part isnt really a question, but a statement.

so just answer the first.

and feel free to include any audio secrets.

holler.

i believe that pop sound is coming from your amp. since it's hooked up to a factory radio you needed a Line Output Converter so that might be it.

ka-ching, ka-ching

i've got a LOC, that's what it's running off. it's connected to the stock amp. the LOC lines are feeding off of the signals INTO the amp, not out to the speakers, which i've been told is the better way to go.

there must be a way to 'not' have the pop.

seeks, i used to know how to solve that but it's been so long. i think pistol's onto something. i'll ask my broham too. he's got an eclipse 8810 sub forsale too if you're interested...

http://www.kartunes.net/Install%20Pix/Toms%20Car/Toms%20Sub%20Closeup.jpg'>

not really. i'll get a new head before new subs.

what's he want for it though?

i'm sure pistol is right, i mean, i know it's a signal issue, i just dont know how to fix it.

someone was saying something about a 'relay' or soemthing like that, which effects the amount of power that the 'remote turn on' puts out. might that be it?

this summer im gonna pull some serious install shit.

building the subs into the sides of the trunk i think. that or a false floor. either way, it's gonna all be hidden.

I remember one of my boys having this exact same problem...I'll see if I can fish an answer out of him.

Its probably because you're connecting to the stock head. As far as it not being as loud as it was before, its cause hatchbacks are always louder. Just slide the box as far back against the wall of the trunk as you can, and face the speakers towards the back not the front. And if you're running a sealed box think of venting it... Maybe?

WOrd

i know that happens to my computer system when i turn the lights off, light it is gettin a huge jolt of enery, its probbaly something in relation to that, i would ust take it to a shop and they will do it cheap steez. Congrats on the jetta, i wish i still had mine...lucky seeks

yeah man congrats on the car thats sick! I wish i knew about this shit I just got a Alpine deck installed at the local place here and it was good work! Look up in the owners manual if ou got for that problem. Also the local stereo shop could probally fix it for free! just tell them you want a quote tell them to listen and they will tell you whats wrong!! yeah boye

Originally posted by Pistol

i you need a Line Output Converter so that might be it.

this is exactly what you need, my explanation will confuse you more, but when the stock gets power it sends a fully loaded signal to the amp powering the sub, thus quick POP. THis happened in the truck after i got the sub there i lived with it fir a week or so then got the Line out put converter and fixola.

Its just a lil thingie that goes between the amp line out and the line out to control the flow of current to the amp, so it takes a second th get the juice to your amp, so you hear the reg speakers first then once the power is full it turns the sub on so no pop.

Originally posted by seeking

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special bonus question:

my subs aren't hitting nearly as hard as they used to in my old car. granted, it was a hatchback (i'm in a jetta now) so there was nothing between the subs and the cabin, but still.... is this because i'm using the stock head? this is a pretty basic set up were talking here...JL 10's, and a sony amp. both of which are atleast 6 or so years old. nothing fancy or extravigant. i dont want some crazy system, just something that sounds decent.

 

and feel free to include any audio secrets.

holler.

the stock head unit doesnt help things,

but its all about spl (sound pressure level)

a trunk is a very different environment airspace wise than a hatchback

you just need to get the components you want to run

-head unit

-amp(s)

-sub(s)

and then do some calculations so you can

take advantage of the airspace you have

and also make a correct sub enclosure for it

That sound is not good...could cause damage to your audio equipment

Relay Pop

Relay turn-off pop is caused by components in the system turning off before the amplifier completely shuts off. In most cases, the component will be an EQ or signal processor. Usually adding a little turn-off delay to the offending processor can fix the problem. This allows the processor to turn off after the amplifier, preventing the pop. Many components have this feature built in, and it is adjustable. Check the manual to see if your component has this feature available.

my boy had his shit rigged up all grimey..and when he would open the door the subs would make a thump like the door was music or someshit hah.

yo seeking...

my boy suggested turning the gain down on the LOC and the gain up to 3/4 max on the amp. He also mentioned checking for a fader (fades power when turned on or off) as most newer amps have it built in.

He also said that the jetta most likely has some kind of sound proofing in the seatback and rear deck lid. He suggested fixing it by drilling several small port holes through the rear deck...without going all the way through the carpet.

I'm not sure how much of an authority he is on this stuff...so you might check his methods out with other peeps.

someone (either you guys, or me) is a bit confused as to a LOC. all a LOC does (as far as i can tell) is take 4 speaker wires and turn them into rca's. it has nothing to do with power. i couldnt possibly be running the subs without the LOC, since the stock monsoon doesnt have rca-outs.

what i need is one of those delay things. i read about them last night also. thing is, i have no clue where to get it from. i know its a very tiny, very simple thing, just dont know the deal.

in related news, after staying up late last night becoming the worlds formost authority on fiberglass fabrication, i will soon begin construction on the 'greatest sub installation in the history of mankind'. much like monster truck ralleys and tsunami's, it's going to be AWESOME!

may I suggest a fiberglass sub box / sound system how to thread with your humble host seeking providing step by step analysis and piks? I know I'd dig seeing the work in progress. I'm gonna go all out on my next nice ride. Until I make the purchase...I'm just going to stare at all the shiny glass work with my jaw on the floor.

Originally posted by seeking

i will soon begin construction on the 'greatest sub installation in the history of mankind'. !

Wait, I thought it was gonna be a donkey. Don't fucking sell out, man.

dude, thinking about it.... the sub's will be INSIDE the donkey! how could i possibly make the greatest sub installation of mankind if i didnt include a dancing donkey?!

Now Seeking, I'm not a stereo junkie, but couldn;t this easily be resolved by picking up that one thing and asking your local stereo shop?? Hell I don't even know if you live in the states, but I would assume so. It sounds to me like too much power is going to the amp at once and could be resolved by a capacitor. :confused:

http://www.justamps.com/images/CAP100P.jpg'>

A storage capacitor supplies power and current to an amplifier on demand when needed. Basically, a car battery and alternator were designed for long, heavy draws of a starter motor. An amplifier works in milliseconds, it need fast quick power on instant demand to replicate the fast pace current of music. Car batteries and alternators aren't designed for this. This is where the capacitor come to play. A capacitor holds power and stored current much like a battery but it was designed for fast (millisecond) output requirements. If an amp is denied power when needed, it can't reproduce music as it wants to. Basically this means no output or excessive distortion. If an amp is continually starved of its required power, what it lacks in current, it tries to make up in increased voltage. This makes the amp run hotter and out of the range it normally likes to run it, this eventually will shorten the lifespan of the amp.

The cap gives the amp what it wants, and that's power. It allow the amp to play at its best at its best range.

REMEMBER! For best results mount and wire the capacitor as close to the amplifiers as possible, but keep in mind, a capacitor emits an operating frequency field. That means that if you have the cap mounted to an amplifier to close, you may result in engine noise! Only trial and error will help you find the ideal location for the cap.

plus them things are like $150 bucks.

if ive got an extra 150, it's going into eibach pro springs.

you gotta understand, i dont want some super competition set up. just decent sound. im sure one of those things would be sweet, and this summer, when i do the system 'right', i'll get one, but for the time being, i just want it to stop popping.

i defanitely appreciate the advice though.

and yes, i'm in the states.

seeks/DETROIT, WHAT?!

Originally posted by seeking

if ive got an extra 150, it's going into eibach pro springs.

no no, coke seeks, coke.

the capicitor is just for when your car lights get dim while listening to the radio. the capacitor provides that little extra juice for those hard hitting sections of music that make the lights flicker. the capacitor is the step below buying a better car battery but from what it sounds that isn't the problem in seeks case.

Originally posted by Pistol

the capicitor is just for when your car lights get dim while listening to the radio. the capacitor provides that little extra juice for those hard hitting sections of music that make the lights flicker. the capacitor is the step below buying a better car battery but from what it sounds that isn't the problem in seeks case.

That sounds right, but wouldn't also help the current from going to the amp to fast?? Like I said I'm clueless, but seriously make a phone call to any Best Buy or something and ask. They should know immediately..

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