panakeii

I never had any problems with DOT3/Garvey.

My favourite potion for the violet garvey was 1/4 brakefluid and about 5 grams of gentian violet and it did wonders especially on painted surfaces, they buffed, buffed and buffed and then tried to scratch it off with a file, most of the paint underneath got buffed but the stain was still there.

Refilling 100Ws is always bit of a pain, i prefer the old eyedropper routine. In one hand you hold the pen with the nib removed and a nail down the hole held in place with your thumb on the top of the nail. Then you pour the ink into a cup and suck it up with an eyedropper. Then while 'clicking' the nail with your thumb (to operate the valve of the pen) you slowly press the plunger of the eyedropper so ink gets into the hole of the pen and is sucked in until the pen won't take more ink. The 100W is really good for sneaky tags in areas with a lot of people moving around.

shai hulud Got some of that ink from some czech writers 2 years ago, it comes out like water and then reacts with the surface it is applied onto in about 24 hours, mostly gives dark grey or brown stains, sometimes blackish depending on the surface. It is probably some oxidiser. Used to hit insides on the way to work back then, walked around bombing with people everywhere and they probably thought i was crazy as nothing came out (dries very fast). It is fun as a novelty, but gets boring after a while.

TeezerPHM This reaction usually occurs due to the fact that the potassium permanganate is very basic and something in the ink you added it to is very acidic. Acid+base == Not the best friends and will generate heat when mixed. Potassium Permanganate + Glycerine is a great combo too, as some of the local buffers have witnessed (their buffing solution contains a glycerine among other things).

Religion Try to find a local chemical supplier, it's often easier to get good grade PP/GV from them instead of trying to find stores stocking it. Google is your friend here.

Fruitcake Echt lekker! NW NW NW NW all over the place. Now i need to raid my hardware store as well, thanks for the inspiration.

shai hulud Fortunately this happen outside while on a bombing mission. If i had been at home i wouldn't even think about reusing anything i had used för ***.

Ok, no update on the dabber vs krink. Basically it got killed in action but it didn't have a fair chance as there were unpredicted elements in action. Although you remember all rules about chemicals when you tinker about with it in the kitchen it seems you forget them while on the go. In this case the rule "never mix **** with anything". I pressed out most of it out of the dabber and then poured some krink in the bottle and put the dabber back, when i was about to pick it up it was boiling hot and i removed the dabber accompanied by thick white toxic smoke. The story ends with me throwing the shit in a paperbag and wrecking with boiling krink a couple of minutes before the dabber disintegrated. It was fun hitting up trucks with tags that SMOKED for real though.

BloodandGore Liked the dead chick, very Jamie Hewlett.

I wouldn't drag along tic tac markers due to the small amount of ink you can have in them. It's like those montana "micro" cans that doesn't last for a tag unless you use a really skinny cap. The dry-erasers look nice. I walked into a random artsupplystore the other day and found a foam dabber with plastic handle used for stenciling. Then i discovered that it had the perfect size for the holes of some dietary supplement bottles, got hold of a chubby plastic pill bottle, ripped of the lid and threw in the dabber and it filled almost the whole thing down to the bottom. Haven't tried it out with ordinary inks yet as it sucks up a lot of liquid in the bottle. Used it a bit for the thing-we-can't-mention-on-12oz though and it worked wonders, if you needed a fatter layer you just pressed it into the glass a bit (the foam didn't spread drips all around the place as i first expected). Tonight I will try it with krink to see if the dabber will fall out of it's handle due to dissolved glue. Dabber to the far right. Left pic is flying action once again. The bottom wouldn't come off even though it was filled.

In one of my inks i use really high concentration of PP just because the local buffers use an anti- graffitisolution containing glycols, thus leaving a burnmark in the middle of the ghosts and making buffers fear and respect tags instead of their usual ways of just pouring antigraffiti solution all over the place without hesitation (which also is flammable, very bad combo).

That are some strange numbers and the corrosivity is propably for that brand product only, you can ask anyone that has a car about DOT3 and they will tell you that it is very corrosive. Before i began to use xylene it did the best work in inks as far as eating into paint and plastic surfaces. I personally don't think you should throw bleach inte your ink, i have yet to see a ink that has gotten meaner from adding bleach. Although bleach on it's own is usable to throw in a kiwi mop and bleach the fuck out of public transportation seats, mainly because it makes buses/trains look VANDALIZED. One of the first commanments of the religion called bombing should be FUCK SHIT UP. But if you bleach shit just to get fame and don't go around bombing shit hard otherwise it's just lame.

I second that, don't put shit into etch. Or etch into shit. If there was a nonhazardous way to actually color etch (i.e. get colored etchings, not just coloring the etch itself) you would se multicolored rainbow etchings allover town. But you don't.

_nightcrawler Use a thick needle to make small holes right through the nib, push the needle trough and move it around in a small circle, i prefer to place the holes in two rows of this pattern: .'.'.' <- awful illustration. Then throw your favourite solvent or thinner in the ink, not more than 5% of the total amount of ink in the pen though. Don't forget to pump the nib really good for drips/splatters, And yeah, you will probably not get drips with the temperas original ink.